'34 Dodge Brothers, double build.

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Thank you Guys, for the vote of confidence. E-man, I think you've gone overboard imagineering a 'patina building guru' where there's just a cheap poorboy trying to 'somewhat' fool people.
Anyhow, I have finished the righthand fender, test fit it, and changed the running board to accept this second fender.
 
I took the box off [pic one], and flopped it on the shop floor, [pic two]. The floor was wowed down 4 1/4" in places, and the front was convexed 2 1/4". The front straightened out quite nicely. [pic three] is the box up-side-down and partly beat down [before I remembered to take a picture]. After I beat it down a lot, I turned the box over and started hammering the top side to smooth things out a bit. Now the floor is caved down a wee bit and the front of the floor broke away from it's moorings so I had to winch it back up with a 'ready-rod', and then weld it up, [pic four]. Since then, I have welded up some cracks and remade two new mounting holes.
 

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Factory steel bed? Dodge was way ahead of the rest, weren’t they? I didn’t think anybody had a steel bed until the 50’s wide beds came out, learn sumpthing new every day.
Keep on beating on it Mac![ddd
 
Yes, Bama, a factory steel box floor. That's why I'm trying to straighten it out and use it. The guys that used the truck in the 'Grapes of Wrath' play made a wooden floor for it so it was level, but a chunk of plywood in there didn't cut it for me.
 
The floor of my box is sorta' level now and all welded up underneath, I think. The six mounting holes and brackets were all ripped out, so they are all renewed. I have a wee bit of welding to do on the top of the floor now, and then onto the sides.
 

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Looks like you have been wielding the gas axe. Were you using it to make the dents and pokes more manageable?
 
Bob, I'm more familiar with the acetylene welding and some of the cracks were wide and needed filling in. I did use the MIG underneath though quite a bit. On top I just used the gas so the weld bead is softer and I can grind it off somewhat with a flapper wheel.
Anyhow, today I got all of the top welded up and I'm working on straightening out one side which has bad 'loader rash'.
I filled up a pair of authentic Dodge Brothers shock absorbers and mounted them. That's when I discovered that I had mounted my lower shock brackets on back-to-front.
 

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Amongst the social commitments we had today, I got in a wee bit of shop time. The picture will show that I straightened out the box side that was wowwed down badly at the back, [loader rash]. Then I painted it with my miracle 'patina' paint.
 

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I have been trying to get a fuel sending unit and matching gauge that work together. The partsmen that I've encountered lately didn't see my concern so I've made a few trips to town. Now I've got a gauge that I can make work with the sender, so I measured the sender, cut the arms, and installed it.
The tank has been cleaned out and now installed.
 

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To compound my frustration, Dozer, there was nothing written on the reams of paper that comes with the parts to tell you what ohms of resistance either one had or needed.
Anyhow, I got some more details built in now. There is an electric fuel pump plumbed up, and the filler tube is made and installed.
 

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To compound my frustration, Dozer, there was nothing written on the reams of paper that comes with the parts to tell you what ohms of resistance either one had or needed.
Anyhow, I got some more details built in now. There is an electric fuel pump plumbed up, and the filler tube is made and installed.
MM they make a module that will adapt any sender to any gauge. Dolphin for one and they're around $40
https://www.amazon.com/Dolphin-Gaug...13&mcid=946d8d01d7f839738402242f16af5795&th=1
I've quit trying to find senders to match gauges anymore and just get one of these. This works even if ya don't know the ohm's of either gauge or sender.
 
Thank you OI, that is GOOD information.

Today was 'tailgate' day. I straightened it somewhat, mounted the Dodge Brothers logo on the back of it, and made chains with hooks on them to hold the tailgate closed or open, flat. All these changes were then camouflaged to look like I never touched them.
You'll see in the second picture that I drew out where I wanted my logo, bored a bunch of holes, clamped the logo on the back of the tailgate in the same position, and welded the holes full.
 

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