'34 Dodge Brothers, double build.

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More bolts in place again today. The first picture is a tin addition to the inside of the lower fender where it meets the running board apron. I'm not sure how I'm going to hook the apron to the new strip, though.
The second picture is the headlight and it's mounting pedestal bolted up, [quite a feat, as the good fenders had holes drilled for horizontal pedestals mounting and I needed vertical bolt holes.]
 

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When the cold front came in this morning, ruining our nice Chinook, there was quite a wind storm. So I wasn't done shaving when the power went out. Boy, does it ever get dark in the bathroom in a hurry. Some of you guys should invent light that dissipates gently.
Anyhow, I imagined that a tree had fallen across the power line somewhere. I tried to think of what I could do today. Boy, these days you can't do much without electricity.
I went to town and got some lunch and a pair of coveralls. That's work related, ---- isn't it?
 
I've been thinking along those same lines. How dependent we are on electricity. No heat, no light, no water. Looking into getting a generator. Yes, your day was work related.
 
The cold front is rolling in for us last night/today. Yesterday we had a lot of wind and a bit of snow. Hard to tell how much, 1-2" on the front side of the house and 4-5" on the back side due to the wind.

Near us last night a main gas line was accidentally hit and a lot of people had no gas for several hours. Luckily we weren't impacted, but it gets you thinking. Going without gas is probably a lot easier than going without power, though.
 
I got to worrying about my front signal lights. They have to look old and reasonably authentic [on a vehicle that didn't have any], and the inspector who allows me to get my registration will want them to work. Plus, I probably have to have park lights in the front signals too. So for a while now I've been tinkering around with a pair of oldies. Pic one, is the base plate rebuilt to accept an 1157 12 volt bulb. This is no easy task, as the 'one filament' socket that was on there would not accept the twin filament bulb even with quite a bit of modification, [hours and hours of modification]. The 1157 bulb is almost too big to fit inside the glass, also.
Pic two is the base plate bolted to the fender. And, pic three is the glass and the tin shroud mounted.
Pic four is the steering column back in for some measuring. I've even started to look for the bracket that I made a long time ago.
 

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I got to worrying about my front signal lights. They have to look old and reasonably authentic [on a vehicle that didn't have any], and the inspector who allows me to get my registration will want them to work. Plus, I probably have to have park lights in the front signals too. So for a while now I've been tinkering around with a pair of oldies. Pic one, is the base plate rebuilt to accept an 1157 12 volt bulb. This is no easy task, as the 'one filament' socket that was on there would not accept the twin filament bulb even with quite a bit of modification, [hours and hours of modification]. The 1157 bulb is almost too big to fit inside the glass, also.
Pic two is the base plate bolted to the fender. And, pic three is the glass and the tin shroud mounted.
Pic four is the steering column back in for some measuring. I've even started to look for the bracket that I made a long time ago.
Mac, did you get those lights to work for you? I have found several different LED light types that are really small and really bright for signal lights online. Easily adaptable into small fixtures. They are polarity sensitive. Some are used without sockets too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAHYUBD?ie=UTF8&th=1
 
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Thanks Guys. I had a pair of LEDs here that I'm going to put in the back of my '55 Merc truck. They just twist in to the socket like an 1157 bulb would, but although they're smaller around, they are longer so they didn't work for me. I didn't know about those little wee ones, though.
Today, I mounted the bracket on the firewall that will accept my shortened steering column. There are times when I can see the advantages of putting a flathead six in an old hotrod, as that left hand head of a V-8 is in the road of everything.
pic 1 is test fitting the bracket.
pic 2 is the U-joint just missing the valve cover.
pic 3 is the bracket bolted in there and workable.
 

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I think I would reroute those plug wires, if they are as close as they appear.

I had a steering knuckle snag a plug wire once as I was rolling down the highway. It was blowing in the breeze more then i thought it was. The knuckle wrapped the plug wire around the steering column until it made it really hard to make a curve on the highway. I overpowered the steering, but immediately developed a misfire. I thought something was really messed up. When I opened the hood and found the plug wire wrapped around the column and was pulled off the plug it really was a relief (the wire didn't fare very well). I limped into the next town and had to but a set of plug wires. That time the wires were more secured. Somethings you don't easily forget.
 
Thanks for the concern, Gene. I went back and studied the picture again and realized that the perspective is somewhat throwing you off. The U-joint is further away and lower down than it appears is the picture. The tin shroud around the wires is not just a round pipe, it tapers thinner and droops down quite a bit. The U-joint may be close to the shroud but not really to the wires.
Today, I did something, [away too late in the operation], and I knew better also. I sat in the seat and made Vruumm, Vruumm noises. That's almost a law around here. While you are acting slightly childlike, you should check your pedal comfort and your steering wheel height. I chose to lower my steering wheel 4" and make the truck more drivable.
Pic one is what the end of the steering column looked like before. That's the horn relay gizmo, [the brass rings].
Pic two is the column shortened 4", the shaft bushing slid four inches, and a new snap-ring groove built in.
 

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