36 Ford truck on Ranger

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A lift makes it nice. Sadly, I don't have one either. :( When I was checking my angles with the car at ride height, I had to drive it up on some 2.5" thick boards just so I could get under it enough to put the gauge on it. I could reach under it, but could only get my head sideways, and my belly just wouldn't fit under there, and I'm not a big guy!:D

I believe you're on top of it Mac. Taking 4* out at the transmission should get you in good shape.
 
We went for supper in town and to test drive the angle change that I did today. The truck was almost perfect but not quite, maybe 1 more degree would be the cats meow. I had guessed that a 1" spacer would lift the back of the transmission 4*, well, not quite. I just now remembered the two washers that I took out from under the trans mount and carelessly did not reinstall, voila, that much needed 1 degree.
The changed angle of the engine and transmission causes the clutch throw out bearing to make funny, [sheesh, not ha ha] sounds again. Out of the frying pan and into the fire.
before and after, one inch shim.
 

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Is your clutch mechanical, Mac?

If so, I'm thinkin' you've lost your free play... and/or mis-com-****ulated your linkage/fork geometry.

.
 
Yes Dr. C it is mechanical [the only kind of clutch linkage to have] and I was thinking along those lines today. The clutch fork would now be pulled at a different angle than when the transmission was lower. Tonight I crawled under there, removed the tin dust cover around the bottom of the flywheel, chucked it off to the side, and poked my little camera up into the bellhousing cavity behind the clutch. That little camera is almost totally useless without a lot of bright light, and bellhousings are notorious for their lack of light. As I was lying under the truck, folding up the useless camera, fighting off mosquitoes and swearing, I grabbed the tin dust cover to bolt it back on. WHOA, shiny swirl inside. The tin was too close to the front of the flywheel so was making a little noise all of time, but when I stepped on the clutch the thrust washers or bearings in the motor must give a few more thousands of an inch and the flywheel really wears on the tin cover. I now have a customized tin dust shield, [and quiet].
While I was under the truck and the mosquitoes were darkening the air I raised the transmission and added the second washer. I'm pretty proud of myself tonight.
 
It's a really odd feeling to have overnight success after many months of searching for this problem. Mix a little embarrassment at not finding it sooner; a little pride at my good luck finally; quite a bit of happiness at the problem being small and easily solvable; and relief at finally fixing the darn thing.
Thank you, guys, for following along.

OI, it's too bad that you live so far away from anywhere, because I have the nicest backside ----- of a 1933 Plymouth sedan that I have been robbing. The drivers side is rotten but the back is pretty nice yet. This would work maybe as your filler pick-up back.
 
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Last week I came home from volunteering at the local museum, in a rain storm. My windshield wipers quit working part way home and then started to smell bad,-----until I figured out to shut the switch off. If you were lucky in 1936 you got one vacuum operated wiper, well sir, I wanted two wipers that worked all of the time, not just downhill. I robbed the complete electrical wiper system out of my donor Ranger and modified it to fit in the '36. Ten minutes into the very first rainstorm the electric motor died. Mounting that motor into the header was a really horrible job, so I was not looking forward to have to do it again. Sure enough it is even horribler than I thought.
 

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OI, it's too bad that you live so far away from anywhere, because I have the nicest backside ----- of a 1933 Plymouth sedan that I have been robbing. The drivers side is rotten but the back is pretty nice yet. This would work maybe as your filler pick-up back.
Kind of how most of parts locating goes.
If I had of not sold the 31 Chevy coupe, that would have worked too.
Hate hearing about the wipers biting the dirt :(
 
Last week I came home from volunteering at the local museum, in a rain storm. My windshield wipers quit working part way home and then started to smell bad,-----until I figured out to shut the switch off. If you were lucky in 1936 you got one vacuum operated wiper, well sir, I wanted two wipers that worked all of the time, not just downhill. I robbed the complete electrical wiper system out of my donor Ranger and modified it to fit in the '36. Ten minutes into the very first rainstorm the electric motor died. Mounting that motor into the header was a really horrible job, so I was not looking forward to have to do it again. Sure enough it is even horribler than I thought.

I used individual self-parking electric wiper motors from speedway. They're not that expensive, fit behind my windshield header, and there is no linkage or anything to mess with. I have mine tied to one switch and they work as well as could be expected on a hot rod. I realize there is a cost involved but I think the entire setup with switch was less than $100. Maybe more now with our exchange.
 
Snopro, that sounds like a pretty good set-up. I don't mind spending a little money once in a while and the placement of two motors would be easier because I have little removable take-out panels behind each wiper pivot. There is one downside, though, the wiper sweep patterns intersect and two separate motors would not always play nicely in a synchronized fashion.
One motor in the middle of the header, with connection rods to the transmission pivots keeps everything synchronized, but is a holy terror to put nuts and bolts into from the inside of the header.
Also, I have to have this unit running for the big show in Dawson Creek [Mile 0, Alaska High-way], this week-end.
 
Snopro, that sounds like a pretty good set-up. I don't mind spending a little money once in a while and the placement of two motors would be easier because I have little removable take-out panels behind each wiper pivot. There is one downside, though, the wiper sweep patterns intersect and two separate motors would not always play nicely in a synchronized fashion.
One motor in the middle of the header, with connection rods to the transmission pivots keeps everything synchronized, but is a holy terror to put nuts and bolts into from the inside of the header.
Also, I have to have this unit running for the big show in Dawson Creek [Mile 0, Alaska High-way], this week-end.

Mine aren't sychronized, that's correct, but the arms are adjustable, so I have them set so that even if they aren't synchronized it's not an issue. However I have a v-windshield, and yours is flat.
 
I robbed the complete electrical wiper system out of my donor Ranger and modified it to fit in the '36.

You might wanna try a quality part from GM. (Sorry, Mac. I couldn't resist. :D)

As for those inside wiper/header nuts... can you use an insert?

Many years ago, we used something called "Thinsert" (which I can't seem to find today... probably a trademark/proprietary thing.) Nearest thing I can find are "nutserts" or "rivnuts"... similar to this PA offering...

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/45-pc-threaded-insert-and-riveting-tool-kit/A-p2925204e

.
 
Yes Snopro, because I have a flat windshield I let the wiper blades overlap in the middle and at the same time. Also they are out at the edges of the windshield and vertical at the same time. Either that's really cool :cool::cool: or I have a psychological warp.
Dr. C. you've used the words GM and Princess Auto in the same paragraph on my thread. There outa be a more severe punishment for those horrendous infractions. [ddd
I like the idea of 'nutserts' but to mount my wiper motor I needed to fish bolts into the middle of the header and then thread them toward the back through the rear header wall, into the motor housing. The only nut that I needed to install was to hold the crank onto the output shaft of the motor/transfer/cornerdrive. Besides, I was hoping not to have to do this very many times. Anyhow, it's done again and fixed up. There were two problems; a corroded plug-in and a spacer missing, allowing a shaft to run out too far and it's gear scraped against another gear.
 

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This is almost like bragging. But, I REALLY like my homemade shifter on this Borg-Warner T-5 transmission. There are hundreds of miles on the truck now and I just grin when I have to shift. I threw the upper 2/3 of the stock S-10 gearshift in the bush and welded on an old gearstick that was in someone else's junk pile. Because I built a way longer stick and don't like a longer throw, I bored out a new pivot hole in the bottom of the shifter and raised the pivot 1". This put the throw at about 7 inches----just right.
 

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