36 Ford truck on Ranger

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Someone has to show the up and comers what is wrong and how to fix their own stuff :cool: [P[P[P

Good for you on the mentoring mac. This is the first year in about 12 that I’m not mentoring at one of the local schools.:( I still here from many of the kids. Not really kids anymore. Lol)
Like OI says someone needs to show them.
Torchie
 
No diamonds, Smalls, at least that I saw.
Bam, the first thought that came to me also, was that I hadn't been blowing the carbon out of the engine often enough, so that's what I said out loud to the kids. The kids ate it up, but if their mothers ever hear of what I'm teaching their sheltered babies, Whooo Boy.
Thank you for the 'mentoring' accolades. I do like teaching kids, and they seem to like learning my stuff.
 
Guys, guys, it may be that the sixty-five year old rings are a little woussy and not doing their job, and I'm not totally to blame for my un-snot driving.
I'm glad to have found out why the motor was sounding funny. Now I have a good rebuildable Mercury flathead.
In other news, I was saying that I was removing an old gravel box and trading it for an old wooden grain box. Well, the trade is in the bag. I also brought home a plow from another fellow. Remember, I'm going to rig up a grain truck out of my new '36 two ton.
 

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I've been learning stuff about Pertronics electronic ignition. This ignition module needs 12 volts to run and if you have a resistor in the system between the key switch and the coil you won't get any spark. So you have to remember where you put that dang resistor and get it out of the system. Which I have now done. The truck started right up nicely. The oil pressure idiot light did not go out as I hoped it would. By then supper was called and responded to, and the 4-H kids started flocking in. Maybe tomorrow, I'll remove the sender and mount a real gauge. I've checked the wire and the light and they seem fine.
 
I've been learning stuff about Pertronics electronic ignition. This ignition module needs 12 volts to run and if you have a resistor in the system between the key switch and the coil you won't get any spark. So you have to remember where you put that dang resistor and get it out of the system. Which I have now done. The truck started right up nicely. The oil pressure idiot light did not go out as I hoped it would. By then supper was called and responded to, and the 4-H kids started flocking in. Maybe tomorrow, I'll remove the sender and mount a real gauge. I've checked the wire and the light and they seem fine.

It's a blessing to get rid of points! [cl

Toad
 
It's been a while since I installed mine and don't remember reading that but, sounds like you got it figured out.
I hope the oil issue is a sending unit or something simple :(
 
Yo Kenny, you had me thinking for a while there. I remember now that the real gauges do run through a resistor after the ignition resistor, but the two idiot lights are straight 12 volts. Whoooa, maybe the sending unit is not 12 volts though. Hmmm. It's new, though. The new young partsmen have trouble sometimes getting me the weird things I want. They have never heard of idiot lights, come to think of it, they may never have heard the term idiot, either. Well maybe.
Well, I have some fairly good news, there is at least 24 lbs of oil pressure at an idle, so the sender is possibly the culprit. Maybe there was an air bubble in the oil gallery up to the sender though.
Anyhow, the Pertronics have a hopeful future with me. I don't mind adjusting the points in an 8BA flathead, but I remember trying to adjust them on a 59A flathead and a '56 Ford with a Y-block. Those were bad days.
 

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Good news on the oil pressure mac.[cl [cl [cl

I have yet to make the switch to pertronics on any of my engines but maybe in the Y-block for the brothers boat.
And of course they have heard the term"Idiots". Probably ever time a old timer like us comes into the store to ask for something for a vehicle over 10 years old.[ddd
[P [P [P
Torchie
 
Torchie, You should be alright with a Y-block in a boat because there will be lots of room to work on the distributor. On a '56 Ford you have to lean in over the fender, around the hood hinge, under the back of the low opening hood, and work in the partial darkness around the distributor cap that can't be moved much because of the firewall right there. Y-blocks rule!!!! [except for points setting].


On the partsmen never hearing the term Idiot line; my tongue was in my cheek. I was just seeing if you guys were paying attention. Keep up the good work.
 
Torchie, You should be alright with a Y-block in a boat because there will be lots of room to work on the distributor. On a '56 Ford you have to lean in over the fender, around the hood hinge, under the back of the low opening hood, and work in the partial darkness around the distributor cap that can't be moved much because of the firewall right there. Y-blocks rule!!!! [except for points setting].


On the partsmen never hearing the term Idiot line; my tongue was in my cheek. I was just seeing if you guys were paying attention. Keep up the good work.

Of course we pay attention to you mac. My tongue was in my cheek as well. [ddd
My 56 Merc with a 312 Y-block had a "Hot" Mallory dual point distributor in it. Talk about a PITA.:eek:
Ahhh.... The good old days..... (Tongue firmly planted in cheek again.) [ddd
Torchie
 
Well guys, again, I met the 'Idiot' who is responsible for my 'Wrong' oil pressure sending unit, ----- while I was shaving yesterday morning, [looked him right in the face and used colourful language]. It turns out that if you want the idiot light to go out with good oil pressure applied, then you have to ask the partsman for a 'normally closed' idiot light sender. If you just ask for a sending unit you have a 50% chance of getting a 'normally open' sender.
 
Herein lies the problem... you go to the parths counter and thpeek with tongue in cheek, hoping you're thpeeking the correct idiot dialect... thumtimes you're underthtood and thumtimes you're not!

.
 

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