40 chevy 1/2 ton (first build)

[DozerII]

Lots of sitting on a chair stare time in your future, looking good.

 

[Skip]

Thanks skip.

I have the bed all the way up against the cab but I know it will need a gap. I figure lower the bed a little but I want to hide the spring and frame behind cab for sure so will have to come down to bottom of frame. The back of the cardboard is about as much as I can shorten the bed. But moving the bed off the cab may make it even closer to being center.

I'm open to all opinions. Not really sure about a chop, although I think it would look better. I'm 6'1. So kinda want the head room. will probably tilt the grille some but not real hard. I'm pretty sure with headers and radiator and stuff it will fill out the front section more.

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I think you've got it!

As for hiding the front of the rear spring, with the bed a couple inches below the belt line of the cab, you can make a little panel to fill that space between the cab and tires. I have to make one for my truck, too. It just looks wrong right now.

And yes, that is a Chevy bed.

 

[TruckRat]

Those are some nice rides all of you have. Hope mine looks half as good. Was planning on matte black but the wife likes the rust look and the pitting all over so I think I'll paint the inside and rust up the outside

I'm trying to figure out what kinda steering to do. Was thinking cross steer but like the look of the original style steering. I have a 36 column and gear box but looks like the bottom is missing a cover. If anyone has a pic of a gear box for a 36 I'd love to see it. Working on the original steering wheel hear and there. It's looking better already. I cut my gear box off cause the shaft was cut.

 

[TruckRat]

Well not alot to show. Set the bed lower and slid cab back where it needs to be on frame so when i fix lower corners of firewall it will fit the frame. Looks more proportioned except it left the motor sitting to far foward. So I cut the motor mounts and trans mount out (wasn't real happy with motor mounts from the beginning). Moved motor and trans back 3 inches and welded new motor mounts and trans mount back in. It looks alot better close to the firewall and gives me more room in the front so I can run a fan if I want instead of electric fan.






motor forward


moved back 3 inches

 

[Burgerman]

Look'n Good

Motor and cab back looks nice. Lots of room up front is good. Terrific progress.

 

[bob w]

A good improvement for sure.

 

[TruckRat]

Thanks. I hate redoing things but I have to when it needs to be. Otherwise it would drive me nuts!

I'm wanting to figure out my steering so I don't have to kick the tire to turn it when moving it around . I was wondering if anyone has used an original steering column with a vega gear box? Wasn't sure if you could cut the shaft above the worm gear and have enough hanging out to weld a knuckle on it. Still might use the old gear box, but not sure what to do about the pitman arm since it has the ball on it. May tear into the gear box this week. If anyone has any pics of theirs I would love to see them.

I'm running the automatic because the wife wants to be able to drive it. So I kinda want the cross steer so she won't freak out about any bump steer. Building it for me but you know what momma wants momma gets .

 

[joedoh]

these trucks are weird, I moved motor back 10" on the s10 frame turns out I could have gone 12-13. that same amount in an AD with s10 frame would be clear through the firewall. as it is, the 4.3 crank pulley is in the center of the crossmember, I may have to adjust the caster on the front because the steering will be so light.

looking great! keep me in mind if you find any spare parts, I have a couple more of these to build haha.

 

[TruckRat]

I'll let you know if I run across anything. I sent you a message.

 

[Bamamav]

Truckrat, you can cut off your stock column and use a U joint or coupler on it. It's been done lots of times. If it isn't long enough to reach the Vega box, you can get U joints and double D shaft from Speedway Motors to make it work.

 

[TruckRat]

Thanks bamamav. I knew you could use one but wasn't sure if there was enough there to attach to or if you had to shorten the tube.

 

[Bamamav]

When you cut it, you will probably need to find a bearing of some kind to slip into the bottom of the tube to support the shaft. You will have to cut the tube back enough to let an inch or two of the shaft stick out the bottom for your U joint. I don't have any pics to show, but I know there are some on here where guys have done it.

 

[TruckRat]

Thanks bamamav.

I haven't gotten any work done on the project. But they are changing our schedule at work starting next week. I normally work Sunday - Thurs. But will be going Wed. - Sat. 5am - 4pm. So off 3 days and early enough to get some work in after work. Plus when I get off work tomorrow I'll have 5 days off straight because of schedule change .

I'll be going to a buddies house Saturday to tig weld the grille insert and cut a fuel tank down and tig it back together. Then try to get something done with setting up steering. Also need to replace rear busted shocks and front warped rotors on my daily driver. And make some new runners for the boat trailer. All these other projects seem to never end

 

[TruckRat]

Picked up my fuel tank today. It was over twice this lenght and I cut it down and used the left over middle piece to cap the end. Still have to do the same with the other side of the tank to sell. It fits the spot i want it but I am going to have to move the filler neck to the top and shorten it so it's not sticking out the back.

 

[TruckRat]

I have been trying to find some cheap steel wheels for the rear cause one of the donuts on the rear blew apart. Needed something to put on it so I can move it around. Been to the wrecking yards by my house and asked some guys I know and nothing. So I've been looking on CL and other places. Still nothing. Finally looked the other morning and ran across a set of Weld wheels. 15 x 12 rear and not sure about front ones for $125 with lug nuts and washers. Picked them up yesterday. Can't put the front one's on till i do the disc brake conversion. When I told my wife I was going to get them she actually bought them for me. Gotta love a woman who loves cars as much as you do .

I also picked up some angle and tubeing today.

Passed this on the way back from picking up my wheels. He was leaving the race track.



I like the way they look, but If I change my mind later I can atleast move it around now. But thinking I'll stick with them.

 

[Skip]

Heakofadeal on the rims, and they aren't even ugly ones. You scored!

Sounds like you got a great deal on a wife, too. [cl

 

[akatao]

those look nice

 

[TruckRat]

Thanks guys.
Yeah she's a keeper. She even sprung for the steel I picked up

 

[TruckRat]

Well it's been a little while since I did an update. I've had alot of other things going on but did manage to get some stuff worked on. I made some cab and bed mounts. cut bed down 15" then cut bed sides off to replace with new sheet metal. Probably wouldn't have if driver side wasn't missing the bottom half from rust. working on getting the bed back together. Replaced a section on the front of the bed that was rusted out. Replacing the sheet metal on the bed is the first time for doing body panel replacement of any kind. I also made new bolts for inside of tabs on grille shell and finished trimming and fastening grille insert into place. I still need to make a trim piece for the bottom but I'll do that when I see how much of the shell i need to trim to lower grille to the right height and make sure I don't need to trim it either.


cab and bed mounts


15" off of rear of bed


driverside of bed


bed rail and front post



bedside tacked



welded and some primer thrown on for now

 

[TruckRat]

more pics.


Old grille


Had to weld rectangle tabs on bolts to be able to mount insert to tabs.



New grille insert made of small guage expanded metal.
not finished with bottom and will probably get sanded on front and trim and painted aluminum or sanded and cleared instead of black but we will see.




rust repair on bottom corner of the front of the bed.