Bamamav
Well-known member
Foot in my mouth. I was thinking change the cab as in a different cab, not filling in the low spot. 
40 Ford tonner panel build
- Thread starter Willowbilly3
- Start date
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smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
Heheheh, yessir, I was just talking about filling the low spot on the cab.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Foot in my mouth. I was thinking change the cab as in a different cab, not filling in the low spot.
Different perspective on the job at hand
Last edited:
Willowbilly3
A *real* tin magnet
Thanks CORPO, it really doesn't and there's tons of other body work that needs done a lot worse.
I got the other door hung today. Also took out the window and regulator just to see if I could and to clean & lube it. Pit in a new door check and now I'm thinking I need to put the other one in after I see how far it opens with a fresh biscuit.
I got the other door hung today. Also took out the window and regulator just to see if I could and to clean & lube it. Pit in a new door check and now I'm thinking I need to put the other one in after I see how far it opens with a fresh biscuit.
Willowbilly3
A *real* tin magnet
Ok, after getting myself gathered back up, changing some things in my head, I plowed ahead today. I decided to just whack the running board brackets off and weld them back on later instead of lifting the body.
This is progress???
After I got the fender off, I see the reason for the bulging side. 3 rivets held it to the floor. One gone, one wollered out and one loose. Clamp, drill and bolt. Now it's all copacetic.
The side I just fixed.
The side I didn't fix yet.
And the big piles of smurfyness in my yard are growing like a fungus.
Also did some more measuring on the scout. The front frame is only 1/2 inch wider than the panel. I think I'll bite the bullet on the ride height thing and just slide the 4x4 axle under this frame. It looks like it will sit about 4 inches higher.
This is progress???
After I got the fender off, I see the reason for the bulging side. 3 rivets held it to the floor. One gone, one wollered out and one loose. Clamp, drill and bolt. Now it's all copacetic.
The side I just fixed.
The side I didn't fix yet.
And the big piles of smurfyness in my yard are growing like a fungus.
Also did some more measuring on the scout. The front frame is only 1/2 inch wider than the panel. I think I'll bite the bullet on the ride height thing and just slide the 4x4 axle under this frame. It looks like it will sit about 4 inches higher.
Torchie
Well-known member
You could also look at removing some of the leafs in the spring pack as well. Those old Ford springs are pretty stout and you may not need all of them. That might gain you an inch or two.
Torchie.
Willowbilly3
A *real* tin magnet
No matter, it can only deflect a couple three inches without hitting the frame anyway, and if I flipped it, the axle would be right against the frame. I'll just go for the period Marmon Herrington clone look.
Todd
He's just one of them Rusty-Chainers!
That is cool too. But what about a c notch in the front with a stiffener over the top off the frame rail? [
Willowbilly3
A *real* tin magnet
That is cool too. But what about a c notch in the front with a stiffener over the top off the frame rail? [
That's a thought
Willowbilly3
A *real* tin magnet
I've been banging on fenders. This was the worst of them. A real mess. I have about 7 hours in it and at least 3 to go.
Before.
Where I quit today.
Before.
after
Before.
After, patch still needs welded in.
The layers of paint
Also I bent and welded a 3/8 rod into the lip so I could get it to stay in shape. I made this clamp for holding the rod in tight.
Before.
Where I quit today.
Before.
after
Before.
After, patch still needs welded in.
The layers of paint
Also I bent and welded a 3/8 rod into the lip so I could get it to stay in shape. I made this clamp for holding the rod in tight.
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
Got it lookin pretty good....[cl
Torchie
Well-known member
Very nice job on the fender Wb3.[cl[cl[cl
Looks a lot like what I have to do to my projects rears plus narrowing them.
[P [P [P
Torchie
Looks a lot like what I have to do to my projects rears plus narrowing them.
[P [P [P
Torchie
Willowbilly3
A *real* tin magnet
This fender had been hammered out from some pretty major damage before and the metal around the front is really stretched out. I have to decide how far to go with it. My talent kinda hits a wall at some point. I'm going to look at some parts trucks and may just replace these front fenders. The metal is so thin in them they are hard to weld.
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2015
- Messages
- 3,254
nice work [cl way cool truck too is that orange the Original color? or is it a primer... I like orange
is that orange the Original color? or is it a primer... I like orange Willowbilly3
A *real* tin magnet
It seems the orange was original but according to my research not one of the regular color offerings for 40 trucks. I think it hauled poopy sheets at the state mental hospital.
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2015
- Messages
- 3,254
lol...! GOT PROOF...?
Looks good. When it comes to welding thin sheet metal you could try using a copper backer to weld against. It works like having a steel sheet behind your repair but the weld won't stick to the copper and you can remove the copper piece and use it again some where else.
