41 chevy 1/2 ton project Fenix

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"hood shuts! but the 2 inch spacers are too much, when the truck is down it looks amazing but the wheels wont turn without rubbing"
I used 2" spacers on the first 52 AD S10 I built and found the same thing you did. The 1" work well and look good too.

I put 8.5-inch wide wheels on the front of my 39 Ford PU. Looks perfect. Doesn't rub.
 
thanks, I already have the wheels though, I like the thinner look on the front
I lost a week last week waiting for the new spacers, truck in the air so I dont really want to do windshield or interior work. got the first spacer on, took about 1/8 off each stud and then another 3/16 off each ET lug nut.
IMG_6778 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

went to install the second and this is what I found
IMG_6779 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

someone had probably returned these after trying to mount them with the wrong lug nuts. I sent an email asking for a replacement, then thought better of it and just installed the m&^%#*&^%ing thing. everyone makes mistakes, the spacer probably just didnt get checked closely when it was returned.

after that I wired the headlights and the turn/park lights. yes I reused the harness but the wires were a little short to make it to the fender. I thought about installing it pointing forward but that would have needed the back of the lens carved out, so I just popped a 1" hole saw through the existing bulb and cut a slot to let the bulb holder fit.
IMG_6782 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_6783 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I wired the headlights next but with two sets of three wires poking out the inner fender I forgot which was which. I used my drill battery to test the bulb and waddyaknow, the 18v drill battery popped both the low AND the high beam like fuses. pop pop. oh well, I have another bulb.
more tomorrow, I will set it on the ground and probably get the interior buttoned up.
 
thanks!

got new lights today, decided not to be cheap on a couple 6024s and have them match right?

thirty two dollars. THIRTY TWO DOLLARS. sheesh.

got the turn bulbs too, called for a 2057 but I got a 2357 for the brighter turn signal, they didnt have any orange 2057 or 1056 either.
IMG_6787 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I would have installed pictures but shortly after this I bumped the grille and the lens I had laid on the fender fell off and broke on the floor.

got the passenger side hood latch freed up with some heat and grease
IMG_6789 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


eagle eyed readers would have noticed the upper radiator hose went waaaay up over the fan, making it the highest point on the cooling system. I contemplated a bleed valve till I realized it would be almost impossible to top the system off, a-durr. so I did a little looking abd found this guy, a radiator cap/fill point with clamps. I bought it and a 20psi cap for the actual rad and filled er up.
IMG_6786 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I did more, like the seats are bolted in and I started on a filler piece for behind the seat to cover the ugly parts you can still see. I got one rear inner fender trimmed and sealed, the bed cross rails are now completely burned in and done. got the drivers side left to do. oh and I remembered to grease the front end which was still bone dry haha. keep watching this space!
 
done with carpet and seats
IMG_6796 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

got the little filler pieces put in the tubs, tacked then glued. got the running boards bolted to the fender, they line up perfectly with the cab, the bed, and the frame. all that measuring wasnt a lost cause!
IMG_6797 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_6799 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


here is the difference between a 41 1/2 ton and a longbed s10 wheelbase. I plan to just slice the running board right there and add the material required.
IMG_6802 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
 
Glad you showed us the upper hose, I just realized I need to do the same thing, my hose has to go straight up to clear the serpentine belt and brackets, then back down to the radiator. It's also higher than both the radiator and engine at it's highest point, so I'll be putting in a fill neck like yours, too.
 
bama its a dodge part, for a 2003 durango 318. it was $21 over the counter. dont forget to run a higher pressure cap on the rad than the filler neck so that the filler burps first. rad caps seem to be universal, I have a mustang one, an s10 one, and the durango one and they all interchange.
 
bama its a dodge part, for a 2003 durango 318. it was $21 over the counter. dont forget to run a higher pressure cap on the rad than the filler neck so that the filler burps first. rad caps seem to be universal, I have a mustang one, an s10 one, and the durango one and they all interchange.
Cool. Thanks for the information. May need it for the next build.
 
running boards mounted, super easy, gets easier every time. I used some extra AD running board mounts I had laying around and trimmed them to about 11 1/2 inches in front and 13 1/2 inches in the back.
IMG_6807 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

the front fenders had a little wiggle until we cinched the running boards down, this should be one quiet truck on the road because everything is very taut

the rear fenders were super wiggly, needed a brace I did not have. so I made one. I wanted the outside to be clean so I used some carriage bolts. I planned to bolt them to the bed too, but the drill didnt fit up where the brace went, so I just welded that side to the bed. you can still pull the fender by unbolting the carriage bolt so no foul
IMG_6806 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_6805 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I even used a wing nut on the back side so it would be easy to pull off.
 
Did you just stick a gauge cluster behind the original frame and it fit? I wasn't sure what you did. Tried going back and looking but pics are gone. If you have a pic I would love to see it. Trying to figure out what I am going to do. Was thinking regular gauges but may do this.
 
I just did this today, there arent any older pictures. I used the face and glass of the 41 gauges and carved out the rectangle window in the original face, then took the lens off the s10 gauges and cut down the outer glareshield to about an inch tall, then used some screws to join them and my favorite joining schmutz to seal them. I put an L bracket on both sides that lets me screw it to the dash like stock.

I did have to clearance the upper part of the metal behind the dash to get it in position, the original cluster is only about an inch and a half thick at the top
 
this is what I cut out of the 41 gauges
IMG_6833 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

and this is where I trimmed the dash.
IMG_6834 by Joe Doh, on Flickr



put it on the ground again this morning. hard to tell in the garage but the stance looks perfect to me. I spend a lot of time on that aspect, I think the three most important things to a good build are stance/wheels and tires/interior.
IMG_6841 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

lots of turning clearance now
IMG_6832 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_6831 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
 
Can't wait to see this one outside in the daylight! [cl[P
But I'd have to give it a coat of paint though, even if was just flat hot rod black.:D[ddd
 
thanks bam

painting something like this is not possible, the body is too crunchy and wavy. the front fenders have thin and missing spots, the rear fenders look to have been wadded up like foil then smoothed back to almost the same shape. the running boards look well run, the cab and hood have tree limb damage.

a color like hot rod black would accentuate all these problems. painting it anything shiny, good googly moogly I cant even imagine the time and cost, and where would you stop?
 
I think it looks great just like it is! Heck I've got waves, crunches and wrinkles in my body and my wife still thinks I look good. (course she probably needs glasses).
 
right on fellas, I look at all the damage as the sum total experiences of the truck, even the cow kicks.

not much progress unfortunately, I moved the trailer and the next donor out of the way of the garage door and pulled the truck out to sweep up, it gets kind of cluttered in there with so little space. yesterday was the wifes bday, all day. big times a comin though. I had to take the dash back out, I forgot to fix the broken bolt on the cowl vent linkage.

IMG_6858 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_6859 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_6856 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


got the overflow and vacuum ball mounted, working on the charcoal canister.
IMG_6846 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


remember when I needed that brake bracket part and it just mysteriously showed up? well I was wiring the headlights and couldnt find the passenger headlight plug. johnny and I looked all over the garage and in this drawer (where I last remembered seeing it) at least 4 times between us. I broke down and bought a new one, went to get my crimpers from the drawer and
ofcourse by Joe Doh, on Flickr


*sigh*. at least I have the new ones for the next truck. :lol:
 

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