48 fire truck roadster

[AZ4GEMAN]

Dualies

Those rears look pretty skinny. I'm going to have the same problem on my build. The only 8 lug 19.5 steel rims I've found are 7 inches wide and take 8R - 19.5 tires. Wider tires are available but not recommended for my narrow rims. I can probably find some wider alloy rims but that isn't the look I want. Then there is the cost.

Since you are using 10 lugs there is a greater choice and wider rims are available. That will reduce the space between the tires. As I recall your tires are 8R-19.5's, correct?.

The later model stuff is a metric spec and I don't know if they will interchange with yours.

Wish I had done more research before committing to the lug pattern I have. But then again, the price was right and the MH running gear is in great shape.

 

[DJ3100]

Those rears look pretty skinny. I'm going to have the same problem on my build. The only 8 lug 19.5 steel rims I've found are 7 inches wide and take 8R - 19.5 tires. Wider tires are available but not recommended for my narrow rims. I can probably find some wider alloy rims but that isn't the look I want. Then there is the cost.

Since you are using 10 lugs there is a greater choice and wider rims are available. That will reduce the space between the tires. As I recall your tires are 8R-19.5's, correct?.

The later model stuff is a metric spec and I don't know if they will interchange with yours.

Wish I had done more research before committing to the lug pattern I have. But then again, the price was right and the MH running gear is in great shape.

They are 8R - 19.5. It comes down to cost. I have 6 powder coated wheels and 4 tires. The 2 additional tires are about $350 each. I'll be sticking with what I've got and look for some good used 8R's.

You have the technology to change your lug pattern either on the axle or with adapters or even make you change out he wheel centers.

 

[DJ3100]

There's progress or is it regress?

These things blow up huge when all the parts come off. This is only the first table full of parts.

I borrowed the engine roller skates from Doug. They bolt to the engine/trans mount and work great.

Lots of welding left but I got some done today. I'm TIG welding a few areas that show, are a little delicate and/ or are critical, like the motor mounts. The rest I'll MIG weld.

The kick up in the back makes this frame difficult to put on the rotisserie (mine is 2 modified HF engine stands). Not sure how I'll deal with the welding, grinding, sanding and painting without it.

 

[jfg455]

You just need to make an attachment frame for the rear that puts the center line of the rotissery down in line with the front. That way it all swings in the same arc. Or just bolt it on there and have the frame swing at an angle. Won't hurt anything but your OCD to not have it level.


Oh and it all looks good too! [P

 

[DJ3100]

You just need to make an attachment frame for the rear that puts the center line of the rotissery down in line with the front. That way it all swings in the same arc. Or just bolt it on there and have the frame swing at an angle. Won't hurt anything but your OCD to not have it level.


Oh and it all looks good too! [P

you're right, I looked at it some this morning and it's not going to be that difficult.

 

[truckster]

I am thinking you will have to attach something that will put you somewhat close to center of mass (good luck figuring that out!). Heavy as that frame is you won't want to try and turn it by hand with a 2 foot offset on one end. It is significantly heavier than a T-bucket frame. Never weighed it before you added another couple hundred pounds of goodies, but it was almost more than I could lift at either end.

It really does look good! Better even than in the photos. Thanks for the link on the gussets. I ended up making some fairly similar.

 

[Dirtyrat]

I am thinking you will have to attach something that will put you somewhat close to center of mass (good luck figuring that out!). Heavy as that frame is you won't want to try and turn it by hand with a 2 foot offset on one end. It is significantly heavier than a T-bucket frame. Never weighed it before you added another couple hundred pounds of goodies, but it was almost more than I could lift at either end.

It really does look good! Better even than in the photos. Thanks for the link on the gussets. I ended up making some fairly similar.

Chain fall on one side, engine hoist on the other would work...

 

[truckster]

Now, that would work!

 

[DJ3100]

It is the heaviest frame I have ever worked on and the longest - 134". The trick will be to see if the new baby forklift can pick it up from the rear or if it will lift the fork lift.

If I can lift it from the rear, I can load it in the truck and I could get it powder coated - if I have enough $$$.

 

[earthman]

Call me if you need a hand. I'm off on random days during the week too.

 

[truckster]

Likewise, I am available to help.

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks guys, how are you at running a grinder while I go somewhere cool? http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

Actually, I have been hitting it really hard since Saturday afternoon. I got everything welded up and ground down. DA'd one side with 36 grit and got it on the rotisserie. I made some gussets for the rear, made and welded in threaded inserts for the bed mount.

I have a few intersections I need to add a little TIG metal to and massage the motor mounts a little more. I'm going to need to run the wires for the headlights , parking lights and turn signals inside the frame, so I have a couple more holes to drill.

My goal is to get it in primer by Saturday.

 

[earthman]

How do you go about running wires thru the frame. I can't see how you insert wires in one end and retrieve them out of a small hole on the other end.

 

[YBeNormal]

Tie a weight to it and stand the frame on end. LOL

I have always had good luck with a string and air gun blow it thrrew from one end down to the other then just tie the wire to it and pull. Seems to work.

 

[DJ3100]

How do you go about running wires thru the frame. I can't see how you insert wires in one end and retrieve them out of a small hole on the other end.

I'll use a bigger hole (1 1/2" maybe) inside the frame and under the body. A smaller hole (1/2") by the light bar. I'll use a length of MIG wire and push it in the small hole and fish it out of the larger hole. Tape the electrical wires to the MIG wire and pull them in. The trick is making sure to deburr the inside of the holes.

I'd like to get the brake lines in there as well, but that's way more work. Plus they need to be secured - can't just rattle around. I guess I could get the line in and fill the frame with expanding foam like Gartrick's Merc.

 

[truckster]

I think you know, but that frame isn't open all the way front to rear. The offsets have two layers of rectangular tube wall between them, will the rear kickup only has one at the bottom and one at the top (unless you were really planning aheeaaaad and opened up holes and ran mule tape before welding on the caps.

Wires could still be run inside within each section, just not full length of the frame.

 

[AZ4GEMAN]

Dan:
I like this last suggestion. Be sure to shake it so it gets to the bottom quickly.
Be sure to eat your Wheaties before you do.

Dk

 

[AZ4GEMAN]

Oops:
I didn't update before I posted. I thought standing the frame on end was a super idea given the size/weight, hence the Wheaties comment.

Seriously, I made the mistake of running the wires inside a trailer frame before powder coating. You can imagine what the oven cure did to my wires.
Too late for a conduit but using foam to keep things from rattling around should work.

Dk

BTW went to Pull- A- Part today for hubs to use on my Platen table mobility kit. Inflation has hit. $55 + for 2 Mini Van hubs. Includes a $2.50 each "core " charge + $2.00 environmental fee and sales tax. And they have the nerve to ask $50 each for the donut spares.

Worst of all, no more half price Wednesdays

 

[DJ3100]

I'm just running the wires inside the frame going front from this hole. This hole is about 4" behind the firewall and out of sight. Going backwards the 1 1/2 tube is going to serve as the mount for the brake lines, fuel line, hydraulic, and electrical - on the outside of the tube.

The burr in the die grinder made deburring the hole easy. The front hole is on the outside of the frame. It's 1/2" and was harder to deburr with a 1/4", ball shaped burr.

Made some threaded weld-in nuts to mount the body. Dropped one inside the frame, but was able to fish it out without too much trouble. Hence the Visegrips.

Decided I'm done welding, grinding and blending - well except for.....

 

[jfg455]

easy way to run wires is to drill your holes, one at each end, then put a light string in the first hole. Then blow air in the hole after the string with a blow gun. Keep feeding the string in and the string will eventually blow out the hole in the other end. Then tape wires to it and pull them through. Some people use a vacuum on the other end if it is a short distance. This is how I do it with bike frames. [