50 Dodge Pilot

[skull]

0H yeah

looks good[dr

Later

 

[Burgerman]

Thanks Skull

Your photoshop is fine. Appreciate the tip to block the rain rails with the next lift. Test fit the clip to trim inner fenders.

 

[Burgerman]

Progress

Trimmed the front of the S10 frame and Pilot clip today and got a fit. The front cab attach points happen to line up well with the S10 frame mounts, will need to work with the 6 inch vertical gap. May use old salvaged brackets for rear mounts. I plan to start with cardboard templates for mounts. Gonna slow things down and take my time and get this right.

 

[Burgerman]

more photos

Blocked up the front clip and set the hood on. Its gonna ride low. I will set some weight in front (60lb bags of cement) to simulate engine weight to help with ride height. Been a while since all these parts were together.

 

[DozerII]

Mocking it up like that is the best motivation. [[ [cl[cl

 

[smallfoot]

Looks like your making it fit pretty good![cl

 

[Skip]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Remember, even with the engine weight added, there is still a bit of bounce to consider. Jumping up and down on the front once the weight is in is great fun.

 

[sgtpontiac]

Looks good to me....

I agree, seeing the thing sitting there mocked up puts some pep in your step to drive on.... [P

 

[skull]

stance

stance is everything[dr

Later

 

[Burgerman]

thanks guys

My hat is off to all you builders. Joining the ranks has increased my respect for all that goes into a build.

 

[joedoh]

woop woop! that thing looks awesome! [cl[cl[cl

 

[Burgerman]

Box work and cab mounts

Got my box end cleaned up and started making rear cab mounts. A surplus fence post will become the rear cab mount base. Front cab mounts next.

 

[Burgerman]

Decision time

Stock bed looks better on the shorter wheel base. Kinda like the long wheel base. A flatbed perhaps [S

May save the box for the 52 and build a shorty next

 

[Burgerman]

more photos

 

[joedoh]

maybe we discussed this but in case we didnt, there is a factory joint in the s10 frames, all the front sections are the same regardless of wheelbase and the rear sections are long or short to make the different wheelbase, the splice is under the door. you can grind out the welds, slide it apart, cut off the section, and slide it back together and weld it up. having it slide in and out makes it really easy to get it square and strong, unlike a butt weld

thats if you want to shorten it

 

[joedoh]

right there where the frame straightens out, you can see the joint

 

[Burgerman]

Frame length

Thanks Joe. Forgot about the factory splice. Been thinking this over since your post. Was only thinking butt weld splice before. Further complications are my 220 power is out. Direct burial line failure. Looking at power options, need more capacity. My shop is remote also, making upgrades costly.

Here is my next donor. Drying it out now, stinks inside.

 

[Burgerman]

shorten it

Grind out the factory welds next. Wheelbase will be reduced to 108 inch, maybe less.

 

[skull]

cool

yay, 1O8 is stock, mine ended up 1O9 and that makes a difference in the way my wheel wells lined up in the front fenders.

keep up the good work,

Later

 

[joedoh]

woop woop! you will never regret the steel bed over the flatbed in my opinion