'50 GMC Daily Driver

[Old Gold]

Here in Michigan if there is at least 4" of metal under the door handle we call it "buildable".

 

[falconvan]

Here in Michigan if there is at least 4" of metal under the door handle we call it "buildable".

Same for Missouri; When I got my GMC cab from the boneyard, the whole floor fell out of it when we picked it up off of the frame. The doors stayed on so it was OK.

 

[dmw56]

I've always lived in the Southwest. I guess I'm spoiled when it come to cars with no or very little rust. Yes, there is surface rust or is it just real nice patina.

 

[bob w]

We "rust belt" inhabitants should not bother starting with a car or truck but just build a body out of 100% patch panels.

 

[falconvan]

Use whatever you can find! I built my floor out of some old metal shelving that was laying behind the Dollar Tree.

 

[bob w]

Willowbilly3 is going to laugh at this because he is surrounded by nice Chevy trucks and parts. But, I'm thrilled that I found the front clip pictured, hood, rear fenders, doors, and runningboards that are so nice that no patch panels will be needed. All the tin has been stored indoors since 1980. It was on Craigslist and cost $300.

 

[bob w]

Summer is over in the great Northland. There will be some nice fall days. But, building time is here. 9 months of garage time. I dragged the frame in and cut all the unneeded junk off of it. Then I cut the G body subframe and capped the ends. The truck frame was cut to allow the front wheels to be a half inch farther forward than original. It is supposed to center in the wheel opening in the fender better.

 

[bob w]

Its pretty ugly from the front. This could never be a fenderless build with the massive crossmember and A arms.

 

[bob w]

Here you can see the misalignment between the subframe and the truck frame. A trip to the steel yard tomorrow for 1/8" plate will allow me to tie it all together. I went to the junkyard today and measured the A arm inclination on a few G body cars so I would get the clip installed correctly. The A arms tilt back 10 degrees. I don't have good stock rear springs so I'm going to try to adapt some S-10 springs. They are about the same length. Lots of builders use the whole S-10 frame under these trucks so the rear springs should work out just fine. I have to be careful to nail the ride height though.

 

[bob w]

Today I got the clip and the AD truck frame mated. First I boxed the end of the truck frame rails.

 

[bob w]

I cut some rectangular tubing for frame end caps. Welded them in and ground it smooth so the clip would mate nicely.

 

[bob w]

Using a come-along, a couple bottle jacks, two jack stands and two levels, I got the clip in the correct position. I mad sure the A arm anti-dive angle was correct, Then I welded the two together.

 

[bob w]

Plates were cut out for the top, outside and bottom and welded in place.

 

[bob w]

Finished! Now, on to the rear to install S-10 leaf springs. I got into a bit of detail on the front clip install in case any RRR members might be considering doing the same thing.

 

[dmw56]

Wow, that's the neatest, cleanest front subframe install I've ever seen. Nice work Bob!

 

[Blademan]

Bob, That is a fine looking clip, looking forward to the rest of the build, Tracy

 

[Gastrick]

Super nice frame splice Bob.

 

[35Mastr]

That is a very well done front clip.I also have not seen one done that nicely.

 

[SmallBlock Jimmy]

I agree with all, that is beautiful work displayed, wow, I wish I could show something half that nice, high five!!

 

[earthman]

Love to look at work like that.