A few questions.

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Briman

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Messages
6
Location
Watson, MN
Hey guys i have a few questions for you. first is about a wiring kit. which ones do you guys recommend and why? second is how big a kit would you recommend? i saw in one of these threads someone said they should have gone with a 9+3 kit, so is it a good idea to get a bigger kit or keep it just big enough? how about placement? Is any one place better than another? also when should i start wiring my truck? should i get it almost all the way built before I start or doesnt it really matter much? Any input you guys have would be helpful. Thanks in advance.:)
 
I think that there are several good kits out there. You will get responses that recommend every one of them. Most if not all, have wire that is marked every 6" to define it's purpose.

Most use GXL, SXL, or TXL crosslinked wire. that is what you want. Stay away from PVC Hook Up wire - the insulation has a lower melting point than the crosslinked wire.

No matter what kit you buy, you still need lots more "stuff". Look at using relays on your headlights, fan, and electric fuel pump. You'll need wire loom to protect the wires. Wire ties, shrink tube, terminals, connectors and a fusible link. Some of these things are included in the kits - some are not.

There is lots of difference in shrink tube. The stuff you buy at the swap meet is single wall 2:1 shrink. The good stuff is double or triple wall with adhesive. when you shrink it an adhesive melts and completely seats the joint. It is available in 3:1 and 4:1 shrink. From the right source it isn't much more expensive than the cheap stuff.

I have had wire loom and wire ties that gave up in a year or less. OEM wire loom seems to last forever. I don't know how to tell the difference, But I don't buy the stuff from HF or the swap meets anymore.

Location: If you're old enough to need reading glasses or bi-focals, mount the fuse panel somewhere that you can see it, not high up under the dash where you have to take the seats out and get a magnifying glass to change a fuse. (See my avatar)
 
I have used EZ wiring for 3 harnesses and had never done any car electrical before. I have them installed and everything working like new. Pretty easy and no electrical problems at all after 5 years on the first one. I would never use an old harness again except until I could afford the upgrade. Hope I helped a little.
 
I think you should start thinking about where the wires are going when you are building the frame. If boxing or using box tube, build in inspection/ access holes so you can run brake lines and wires inside your frame (of course, then you need drain holes). Good protection and out of sight.

Plan where the fuse panel is going so you can weld in a bracket, rather than bolt it through the firewall or fender.

Think about how you're going to run wires to head lights, tail lights and parking lights without having them look like an afterthought. Don't forget the engine - having all the gauge, alternator, ignition, choke wires running across your polished plated intake manifold might look kind of tacky.

Or just wait until you''re done building and run the wires where ever you can like the rest of us.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top