Old Iron
Well-known member
The reason I asked is, they make a pump relocation for a small block chevy. Thought they might have something for other engines.
A Massey-Harris 33.
- Thread starter MercuryMac
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2015
- Messages
- 3,254
pfiew... you nearly got me there Mac... 
There are small tubes available , flanged on both sides, to make a 454 pump work on a 331 chrysler. Maybe a construction like that could fix the problem? Or perhaps a bit of both, drop the pump and raise the shroud... dropping the pump 2"may cause flow issues?
There are small tubes available , flanged on both sides, to make a 454 pump work on a 331 chrysler. Maybe a construction like that could fix the problem? Or perhaps a bit of both, drop the pump and raise the shroud... dropping the pump 2"may cause flow issues?
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Thank you Guys.
Today I found a few more water pumps and held them up against the beast but none of them would work. The bolts that hold the pump to the front of the block are right where I want to put the pump.
I will look at my two Hemi pumps though and see.
Because this is a six cylinder and somewhat long, Chrysler put the pump flat on the front of the block so it could suck water out of the block without any redirecting tubing.
Any how, I took the motor out again and am now working on the clutch actuating lever and the lining up of the clutch shaft and the transmission input shaft.
Today I found a few more water pumps and held them up against the beast but none of them would work. The bolts that hold the pump to the front of the block are right where I want to put the pump.
I will look at my two Hemi pumps though and see.
Because this is a six cylinder and somewhat long, Chrysler put the pump flat on the front of the block so it could suck water out of the block without any redirecting tubing.
Any how, I took the motor out again and am now working on the clutch actuating lever and the lining up of the clutch shaft and the transmission input shaft.
Bamamav
Well-known member
Can you leave the pump in place, and drop the fan, putting it on its own shaft and pulley, and running it with a belt off the crank or even off the pump pulley? Seen some heavy equipment that way, the fan might have even been mounted on a framework off the radiator shroud.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Thanks Bama, but I've tried some of those remote fans already. The problem with those is I only want to move the fan down two inches, so the four inch fan pulley fights with the four inch pump pulley. I eyeballed four more pumps today. The closest one to working was a Y-block one. The outlet port was on the right side and one bolt lined up somewhat. Then I thought of an electric fan and that has some positives, but the negatives are my old generator might struggle to keep up all day, and I really don't want to put an electric fan on an old tractor.
The bottom line is, moving the rad up two inches will cost me a couple of hours work and zero dollars, whereas moving the pump and fan will cost me days of work and four or five hundred dollars. Keep in mind, I have a wee bit of Scottish ancestry.
Well I made the front motor mount bolt hole and one of the coupler hubs for the clutch shaft to the transmission. I had bought an inch and a half hub and four inch weld on sprocket, so I lined it up with the 'six tapped hole' hub and bored six matching holes and trimmed the teeth off to neaten it up.
The bottom line is, moving the rad up two inches will cost me a couple of hours work and zero dollars, whereas moving the pump and fan will cost me days of work and four or five hundred dollars. Keep in mind, I have a wee bit of Scottish ancestry.
Well I made the front motor mount bolt hole and one of the coupler hubs for the clutch shaft to the transmission. I had bought an inch and a half hub and four inch weld on sprocket, so I lined it up with the 'six tapped hole' hub and bored six matching holes and trimmed the teeth off to neaten it up.
Attachments
Nice job on the coupler.[cl
Old Iron
Well-known member
[cl[cl[cl
[P[P[P
[P[P[P
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Not a big report today, due partly to the hotrod dance, you know, one step forward and two steps back.
I put the gearshift in and realized that it needed a retainer tapered ring and snap-ring to hold it in place. I made a couple of unworkable ones and then ground down a fat snap-ring that popped in there and sorta' held the gearshift down, grumbling to myself. Steiner Tractor Parts had sent me an armload of stuff a few years ago, so I went and dug up the brand new gearshift boot and knob, underneath them was a couple of rings wrapped in masking tape. I had written on the tape, 'hold down rings for gearshift'. As hard as that homemade, shapeless snap-ring was to get back out of there, it was soon bouncing on the floor somewhere, and the right rings were applied, then the boot and the knob.
I put the clutch actuating lever on the cross-shaft, and hooked up the rod that drives it. It's now adjusted, also. pic one.
That dang coupler took some time. It was a weld on sprocket and hub and I welded it on carelessly, so I spent some time figuring out how to run a dial indicator on it and then straighten it. The picture shows it pretty straight and in primer.
I put the gearshift in and realized that it needed a retainer tapered ring and snap-ring to hold it in place. I made a couple of unworkable ones and then ground down a fat snap-ring that popped in there and sorta' held the gearshift down, grumbling to myself. Steiner Tractor Parts had sent me an armload of stuff a few years ago, so I went and dug up the brand new gearshift boot and knob, underneath them was a couple of rings wrapped in masking tape. I had written on the tape, 'hold down rings for gearshift'. As hard as that homemade, shapeless snap-ring was to get back out of there, it was soon bouncing on the floor somewhere, and the right rings were applied, then the boot and the knob.
I put the clutch actuating lever on the cross-shaft, and hooked up the rod that drives it. It's now adjusted, also. pic one.
That dang coupler took some time. It was a weld on sprocket and hub and I welded it on carelessly, so I spent some time figuring out how to run a dial indicator on it and then straighten it. The picture shows it pretty straight and in primer.
Attachments
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
I had to make a double coupler because this motor was a different length and the clutch shaft was a way shorter. So I painted the first coupler and made the second one. You'll see the second one has some double link chain on it, well, in the end that chain will go all of the way around the two matching sprockets. That is actually the way Massey-Harris does its couplers. This allows for a wee bit of sloppy lining-up like happens to me sometimes.
In the middle of that second coupler, I fixed my vise. A couple of days ago I broke the one steel jaw out of the vise. It was those two funny little bolts, one broke off and one stripped the threads out of the cast-iron jaw. I tried to carry on using the vise, but it was a pain so I decided to heal it up. I hunted up two little counter-sunk head, 5/16", fine thread, Phillip's head screws, to replace the 1/4" ones that weren't working. After boring out the old holes and tapping them to the new size and boring out the steel jaw with a pencil grinder, [the post drill wouldn't touch it], I found out that the second screw was left-hand thread. I went hunting again. The vise is now like new.
In the middle of that second coupler, I fixed my vise. A couple of days ago I broke the one steel jaw out of the vise. It was those two funny little bolts, one broke off and one stripped the threads out of the cast-iron jaw. I tried to carry on using the vise, but it was a pain so I decided to heal it up. I hunted up two little counter-sunk head, 5/16", fine thread, Phillip's head screws, to replace the 1/4" ones that weren't working. After boring out the old holes and tapping them to the new size and boring out the steel jaw with a pencil grinder, [the post drill wouldn't touch it], I found out that the second screw was left-hand thread. I went hunting again. The vise is now like new.
Attachments
Nice fix on the vise. I like the coupler. I had an argument with a counter person at a bearing house a long time ago that said I couldn't do it that way. When I showed it to him he said he had never seen it before. This system has been around way longer than I have.
Old Iron
Well-known member
[P[P[P
old28
Well-known member
That's todays counter guys, if it ain't on a computer screen they don't have a clue. [S[S[S
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
I figured it was safe to put my steering shaft and bushings back together again. The motor won't come out of there with the steering hooked up, so you can tell that I'm confident that I won't screw up anymore.
The coupler is now finished, primed and painted. It's installed and the chain that you see in the second picture, wraps all of the way around with a wee bit extra. I just have to cut that piece off, right. NO. If the two ends of the chain are both the narrow links, a master link works great. In this case one end link will be narrow and the other, 5/8" away is wide. I need a 'double chain' dogleg master link. Do you think the now-a-days counter-men will help me with that?
The coupler is now finished, primed and painted. It's installed and the chain that you see in the second picture, wraps all of the way around with a wee bit extra. I just have to cut that piece off, right. NO. If the two ends of the chain are both the narrow links, a master link works great. In this case one end link will be narrow and the other, 5/8" away is wide. I need a 'double chain' dogleg master link. Do you think the now-a-days counter-men will help me with that?
Attachments
You have a couple of options. 1, build a new setup with one more tooth on the sprocket. and get a conventional master link. 2, the easy and cheap idea. Just put a pin through the overlapping set of outer links and the roller links. That is if you didn't cut the chain one link too short. You don't even really need a hardened pin because you are only keeping it wrapped and not in real tension. 3 buy two half links and make two pins. Or you could argue with a kid at the bearing house. Good luck.[P[P
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Kenny, I thought about your #1 idea for a while and that is probably the best solution, but also the most expensive and time-consuming, so I discarded it. Whatever will work out of #2,3, and 4 is what will happen. I looked through my roller chain stash [from farming days] and came up with one off-set #60 chain master link, so I'm half way there. You know what I'm talking about when I say "mostly, hotrod building is a dance, one step forward and two backwards".
old28
Well-known member
Not a chance the Kid at the bearing house counter will have any idea what you are talking about !!!!
Great fix. Worked out well. [cl[cl Don't worry about the used link. It won't wear in an application like this.
BillM
Well-known member
Looks like a great fix on the coupling MM, and sorry to hear about your steering wheel woes....I bet there were a few curse words spoken during that event!
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Thank you guys.
Kenny, I'm glad you brought that up, about each pin or link not having to do that much, because they are all working together in this case. I did get to use hardened pins, though.
Bill, yes the atmosphere was turning blue at times. It took me three or four hours to take a little broken piece of throttle handle and an old steering wheel off. It was kinda' like, 'spending the worst week of your life in jail last night'.
Kenny, I'm glad you brought that up, about each pin or link not having to do that much, because they are all working together in this case. I did get to use hardened pins, though.
Bill, yes the atmosphere was turning blue at times. It took me three or four hours to take a little broken piece of throttle handle and an old steering wheel off. It was kinda' like, 'spending the worst week of your life in jail last night'.
