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busch

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
259
Location
Sandwich IL
Kinda a barn find buddy ran this on his SBC truck early 80s sitting pole barn ever since, this Uta juice up the rat a little
4ff4a9d7.jpg
 
They are good for 3 or 4 pounds of boost--maybe 50 Hp..

I have one on a 402-- I'm not all that high on it--Theres a lot of downsides to a blower--cold natured--lotsa fartin & belching till they warm up.. Fuel consumption is high. I honestly think a good cam and headers is better..

But they are interesting looking..

PA41
 
Start making some phone calls today see what it will take to maker run again
Theres a place in Alsip ILL Dyers Machine shop thats pretty good with these
get it cleaned up some start from there
 
Actually....If tuned right a blower should fire on about the first crank or so. The blower in that pic with decent heads, ignition, and cam n exhuast should net ya 75-100 easy horses.
Yea they look cool and with fine tunning should be pretty efficiant. RR
 
Just the look of a blower is enough to put up with all the problems[dr

LilD you got that right, EdelBrock and Holley Carbs gave it great look this will kick ass

Actually....If tuned right a blower should fire on about the first crank or so. The blower in that pic with decent heads, ignition, and cam n exhuast should net ya 75-100 easy horses.
Yea they look cool and with fine tunning should be pretty efficiant. RR

Have a 400 4 bolt in it now going with that, just need to figure out what heads cam any running a blower have any suggestion on a good running set up
 
I will say this about blowers , They rock ! I love the blower on my car , it starts well , runs great and makes a ton of power . I have two carbs on mine that are blower carbs , The power valve set up is different than normal , it senses vacume from under the blower not above it , maybe thats why it runs so well , I love it though .
 
Kinda a barn find buddy ran this on his SBC truck early 80s sitting pole barn ever since, this Uta juice up the rat a little
4ff4a9d7.jpg

B&M Blowers are no longer in business, bought out by Weiand, so if you need idler pulley or belts google them. Changing the size of snorkle pulley will also change the amount of boost the blower will produce.
 
Dont bore the 400 more than .030 due to the siamesed cylinders. Basically just try n keep the comp ratio at 8-1 or under if possible. more than that will work but keep the boost wayyyy dwn if you do. A small cam with decent overlap and decent heads (stock big valves even) and a good electronic ignition will do good.

Basically the more money you have in heads, cam, ignition, ect....the more power you make but if you just want kool looks and a good running engine then you dont have to go nuts. RR
 
Dont bore the 400 more than .030 due to the siamesed cylinders. Basically just try n keep the comp ratio at 8-1 or under if possible. more than that will work but keep the boost wayyyy dwn if you do. A small cam with decent overlap and decent heads (stock big valves even) and a good electronic ignition will do good.

Basically the more money you have in heads, cam, ignition, ect....the more power you make but if you just want kool looks and a good running engine then you dont have to go nuts. RR

Correct amundo ................ .030 max. 7:1 preferred, small street cam, stock 350 / 882 iron heads ( not great flow numbers but fine for the street, should give you 350 - 375 hp, aluminum heads & headers will increased hp ), MSD distibutor, MSD 6a ignition, BDS pressure diversion valve ( diverts vaccum for brake booster & tranny ) a good high output mechanic Holley fuel pump, pressure gauge on fuel log will give you a visual psi reading ( I've added one since this photo ), & a good blower carb ( Holly 700cfm dbl. pumper works just fine on my B&M 144 blower ).

CompletedStudeFrame09.JPG
 
Not to side track from your thread but you asked.

The only Vid I have so far.
This was the first start up, so I had afew bugs to work out.
Timing was off & it wouldn't shut off once started, wired wrong on the ignition, solved almost immediately.
Since that day the body has come off and a new frame built, other frame was not to the Inspectors liking.
I found the car sat too high, so with the new frame design it really sits in the weeds.
I'll do a better Vid next summer. And I don't do burn outs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UELmOvp8_AQ
 
This a 1987/1988 B&M 144 Blower ran 2 summers sat ever since do I need to rebuild it seal arn't leaking bearing are lubed greased has grear lub in it

Made some calls got 2 different answers 1st blower shop need to rebuild we can do it $600 bucks

2nd call put it on run it if seals aren't leaking bearings not go bad change gear lub

Rebuild kits E-bay $132

What really goes wrong with Blowers that they need rebuilding
 

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