Are you working from plans or a pic? Or is it all out of the creative smallfoot mind?
I've got plans and drawings of different ones that looked workable and I'm kinda putting my own twists in where I can..
. I've been spending some time studying the failures of others and trying to assess what their problem was and build something that avoids that.
I've found out lots of tricks to make things go right. Seems like the old standby method of KISS (keep it simple stupid) works the best. According to some info available at Cook's manufacturing, where there's a calculation for FPM(feet per minute) talking blade speed. For my HP, I should be running at 4000 FPM. With my choice of wheels and pulleys, my speed would be 4900 FPM at near full throttle. I'm thinking it will work. A simple pulley change can adjust it.
There's also a tip that the blade needs to be pulled thru the wood, not pushed.
Another tip: the wheel that pulls the blade thru the wood needs to be the drive wheel.
I've seen people get too complicated on their effort for adjustment. I'm going with fixed axle on the drive end and adjusts to tracking and band tightening on the other. Mine will have electric wench for up and down movement. A deadmans throttle that works the motor which converts thru a Comet clutch and an idler pulley working a belt to the wheel pulley.
The people that sell parts are all really proud of their blade guides. I'm trying one of my own ideas first, then I'll have plan "b" in hand. I have some nylon rollers coming to try. I also have bearings coming that "oh by the way" are the same ones they make the expensive blade guides with...about 10 bucks for a pack of 10. Funny, it takes 10 to make two guides for a bandsaw.
I've seen the guides going from about 50 each and up to over a hundred. I believe I'll configure my own...