Bending 6X2X1/8 Rectangular Tubing

[Bonehead]

Use a log chain and a hydraulic jack. Set the jack where you want the deepest part of the bend. Hook the chain in one end, and run the chain over the jack and hook the other end. Use a boomer to take up the slack in the chain. Then jack the jack until you get the tube bent. Remember there will be some spring back, and be very carefull when the jack has tension on it, so the chain does not slip off the top of the jack. It will take some patience to get them both the same, but it can be done.

I managed to bend a piece of 2X4X1/8 using my floor jack. I chained both ends to my welding table, placed the floor jack under it and applied some force. The 2X4 bent nicely. Then I mounted up the 2X6 and it blew the seals. I re-built the jack and paired it up with a bottle jack (small one like you'd keep in the vehicle) and nothing. The 2X4 required about 2 inches of "over" bend to get what I want. The 2X6 moved about 4 inches and went right back. [cl

The chain method works, I use a big jack, 20 ton. But a few small cuts and that thing will bend great.

 

[klink]

I tried to bend this material, but no sucess. So here's what I did.
First I cut out the inside portion that needed the bend. I sliced this part to get the desired shape and welded it.

 

[bob w]

Yep, good job. That's gonna look very nice.

 

[klink]

After re-fitting the piece to make sure it would fit I tacked it together.

 

[klink]

Then I placed it under the body to make sure it I was on track. The outside of the frame has a nice smooth transition. The reason I didn't cut slices in the tubing to bend it was to avoid flats. The sections between the slices will be flat and since this is to be a "high boy" the frame will show. This turned out to be pretty simple. Now all I need to do is duplicate it on the other rail. Then I'll taper the front part of the frame and do the rear part. Currently there is a lot of extra material at the rear of the frame.

 

[Sam_Fear]

Excellent tech!

 

[klink]

So now I have a matched set. The next step is cutting in the front rail shape. I'll also be kicking them up about 1 1/2" to get a little bit of a swoopy look. Then I'll do the kickups for the rear.

I've started a build thread: http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21244

 

[agdeuce]

Very nice job

Man do I feel dumb. I spent many miserable hours "pie" cutting 2X4X1/8 rectangular tubing to make my frame. I then had to weld all that mess up and worst of all, grind it smooth. All that welding just bent it way out of shape. I figured it would and tried to prevent it, but.... Where was my head? Thanks for showing others the right way to make a frame from rectangular tubing. [clThat's why I am very glad I found this forum. Thanks Klink Steve

 

[dark_horse]

Bend it with sand

I know you already got it but here's one more way. Weld a cap on one end of the tube, then fill and pack the entire tube with sand. Word of caution: the sand must be absolutely dry, bake it in the oven. Once full, cap off the other end. Create a form using plywood to bend your tube against. Secure the plywood form to your welding table and clamp one end of the tube at the end of the form. Slowly heat the tube just enough to bend it along the plywood form, the packed sand will keep the metal from deforming. If the sand contains moisture, the heat will turn it to steam and you'll blow a hole in the tube. When you're done, cut off the caps and pour out the sand. Works great just use caution. I didn't come up with this idea, it was passed on to me from a friend years ago so I can't take credit.

 

[klink]

I tried several methods to get a bend in that stuff, and nothing would bend it smoothly and evenly. We suspended a 12' section across some timbers and drove my brother in laws f250 on it and it only moved a 1/2 inch. We put a 4' section of it in a 40,000 pound press, moved it 3" and it went right back. It had to be moved almost 6" to get a permanent bend in it, which ended up being about a half inch. The attempt that almost worked was multiple 6, 4, and 2 ton floor jacks. But the material wanted to twist around, the chain would bite in and twist it. After I ruined a 12' piece with attempts I went with what I knew would work. It's hard to see from the pictures but theres a double bend in it near the firewall end. The front of the rails are straight, then they kick out then they turn back in to run along the bottom of the body and straighten at the rear. I really wanted to bend it to minimize the amount welding the frame would need. But getting a controlled bend wasn't possible.

 

[klink]

Here's how it came out...

Here's one of the rails "in position at ride height".
Thanks everyone for your input, getting to this point was fun!

 

[Old Iron]

Looks awesome [cl

Jim