"Bickle" 1948 3100

[Dr Crankenstein]

I have to be honest...

I've had it stuck in my head for some time, "Bickle" was derived from Bick's Pickles. I now realize the yellow fenders have nothing to do with mustard pickles and the Bick's brand is a Canadian staple you've probably never heard of!

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[Torchie]

[cl [cl
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

Ooooooh [cl

 

[joedoh]

haha I have never heard of them! but they look good.

in my mind I thought it would look more like a taxi than it does put together. so bickle is travis bickle, taxi driver. maybe a yellow body and black fenders would be a better taxi combo.


but I will tell ya, I dont hate the combo, I think it looks better than even I thought it would.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

 

[smallfoot]

Backed in like that kinda looks like a hornet fixin to nail ya!

 

[joedoh]

slacking again, I have some bratty excuses if ya wanna hear em.

first excuse is the title work on the house finally came through, so we got a call with a 24 hr notice of closing. done and done.

next lame excuse is I spent way too long fiddling with that damaged drivers side door. after a couple days I realized, I replaced the cowl because it was so out of shape, how could the door be still in shape?

so I plucked another from the pile.

and stole the upper hinge from BAM

and with those two parts it closed on the first try, with better shut lines than I have seen.

but it looked a little off, so I antiqued it, even saved the red spot.

with that sorted I started back on the inside. rewired the courtesy light to take a marker light socket cut from the front clip.

I only had an amber marker bulb but I think it looks the part anyway.

needed a door pin, the s10 uses a weird setup for the BCM so it can turn off the pin switches if a door gets left open. I have tried putting them in the jamb and the plastic pin breaks. this works great though!

wipers done too, if you use a newport kit on the 47-53 trucks you have to shorten the passenger arm about 3/16".

and with the courtesy light done I could put in the headliner. only broke one windlace screw!

more tomorrow !

 

[Old Iron]

Give off a rather romantic glow [ddd

 

[Torchie]

Back in the day the cool custom cats would but a red or blue bulb in the interior lights for that “ Romantic” effect.

 

[Burgerman]

Door looks sharp, little hole should stay. [P

 

[bob w]

Back in the day the cool custom cats would but a red or blue bulb in the interior lights for that “ Romantic” effect.

The girls I took out... I liked it dark, real dark.

No excuses needed, you are making great progress on you truck.

 

[MercuryMac]

I applaud your work getting 'new' old patina. Your tricks will go into my library, for future use. Thank you.

 

[mikec4193]

I am really late to the party but damn...I love the "crusty" Kansas sheet metal...I have less than 29 months before I will be heading out to N.E. Kansas to find a place to live....the patina from the sun is like second to none...if that was in upstate NY there would be nothing left of those truck cabs...

You are doing awesome work as usual...keep up the great work...

MikeC

 

[joedoh]

thanks mike, I remember your 3/4 ton looooooong bed!

I never had a car big enough to need mood lighting [S

I needed to swap out the oil pressure sender for the new gauges, which was extra fun because its under the dizzy. which is now down a hole with the booster on one side and the HVAC on the other, straight down. laying on the motor was the only access.

with all the fuel lines and trying to miss the dizzy was an extra treat. I celebrated by breaking the evap purge solenoid,

if you think thats a weird way to celebrate, remember that it cost more than the cake and streamers at the last birthday party I threw for a 6 year old to fix it.

but everything works! I used a converter box to match ohms to the factory s10 gas tank sender, and added a temp sender in the heater core inlet line. everything else worked great!

 

[DozerII]

Gotta hate that when you fix one problem only to create another The gauges look great. [P[P

 

[Old Iron]

Which converter box did you use on the fuel gauge?
I'm lookin at the Tanks Inc. one.

 

[joedoh]

Which converter box did you use on the fuel gauge?
I'm lookin at the Tanks Inc. one.

yep thats the one, really useful. has presets to work with modern GM tanks so I was able to program it without filling up.

 

[Old Iron]

yep thats the one, really useful. has presets to work with modern GM tanks so I was able to program it without filling up.

[cl

 

[joedoh]

still on this door replacement. replacing the door and hinge made it close better, but since I had already put new felts and rubbers and glass in the old door I had to switch it all over.

but the real problem was the splines for the window crank were stripped on the replacement. stripped may not accurately describe it, instead of splines on the spindle it looked like an awl or punch, someone had used pliers or vice grips for years and it was worn significantly.

MY PLAN was to just cut the spindle, cut the spindle with good splines off the other door, bevel and weld. my brother heard this plan and started right away with the "that seems like a really lazy thing to do" kinds of comments. maybe lazy, but changing the regulators with the seven reluctant screws per door and internal roller sounded like a real pineapple enema.


so be it. I fought the screws on the damaged regulator first, to assess what kind of pain it would be. after drilling out two (a flathead screwdriver just rounded them off) I got smart and used a big pair of vice grips perpendicular to the screw head and used the leverage to crack them loose. that worked for the remaining 12.

the stripped one is on the bottom, you can see it had a broken spring too so my brother was right, better to endure the pain.

if you havent done this and need to, here is my tip:

when you get all the screws out it will still hang there by the spindle, its made to come out the bottom and the temptation is to try to pull it out spindle side first, but it will hit the window stop in the middle of the door. the way it worked for me was to let the spindle side all the way to the bottom of the door and then push it to the rear, away from the hole, flipping the assembly upside down so that the roller arms come out the hole first. that worked well, and install was the reverse, put it in upside down and pull the roller arms up from the top of the door till you get the spindle in the hole again.


after that I changed the felts and rubbers and glass again. I also had to change the outside window garnish moulding, the replacement door was stainless and was the only bit of stainless on the truck. everythingw orks great now!

i put in the overflow tank and so the hood is ready to go on for the last time, so bumper and carpet and seat (still no word) are where I am at!

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

"Pineapple Free" is the way to be.

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