"Bickle" 1948 3100
- Thread starter joedoh
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
nothing fancy, coes and coe parts are expensive, and I dont like how BIG they are, even an aggressively lowered one is still to tall for a standard garage. I have some cabs that need floor work anyway and a preponderance of 1/2 ton fenders, so I was thinking of making one that had the look but used a 1/2 ton front clip and a regular width long bed. move the cab up 7 inches and forward 10, than make it all fit. I even have an idea on how to do the hood.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
That's a good idea. The size is what kept me from wanting one too.
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
I need to read your mind...
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I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
There seems to be alot going on in that mind.
Go for it Joedoh. I'd like to see the results. [P[P
So let's see. [S. A great idea, terrific builder, a doctor with excellent drafting skills, and fans ready.
Torchie
Well-known member
Great progress even though we never seem to think it goes fast enough ourselves.
Torchie
Torchie
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
Say hello to "Stumpy"
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hahaha thats great, is taht a photoshop or did someone actually build that cute little thing? I remember a program or website that did that to your car like 10 years ago, made it a matchbox.
and ALLLMOST, mine would have that short hood, but a longer bed and the cab would be higher. I did an MS Paint of it a while back and its what gave it legs, made me really say "hhmm".
I will try to find it.
Skip
Well-known member
If it hasn't been done, it should be.
[P <----> [P <----> [P <----> [P <social distancing>
[P <----> [P <----> [P <----> [P <social distancing>
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
I chopped a photo. I haven't tried your 7up/long bed recipe yet, but I'd like to see your rendition if you can find it.
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amazing work! and 7UP, what a great project name, I was going to call it David Allen Jr, (baby COE) but 7UP works great, even have door art like that.
here is my terrible by comparison ms paint chop up
I am going to give it a shot! I will social distance the cab from the bed, and from the frame hahahaha
here is my terrible by comparison ms paint chop up
If it hasn't been done, it should be.
[P <----> [P <----> [P <----> [P <social distancing>
I am going to give it a shot! I will social distance the cab from the bed, and from the frame hahahaha
Attachments
Skip
Well-known member
Arm-chair designer time. [ddd
Joe, your idea is a beauty, but it has been done many times. Doc's idea, on the other hand, is not one i have seen done. Thus I find it more interesting. The biggest challenge would be the doors, I think. hinges would be very close together. Not insurmountable, but challenging. Unless you were to give them a late '40s GM car style fender treatment. Then you get standard doors and hinges. The COE hood would need to be sectioned to PU height dimensions. Adding a couple feet to the bed is a piece of cake. Then a dragster stance, and you have the only one on the planet. See how easy that is?
[ddd Joe, your idea is a beauty, but it has been done many times. Doc's idea, on the other hand, is not one i have seen done. Thus I find it more interesting. The biggest challenge would be the doors, I think. hinges would be very close together. Not insurmountable, but challenging. Unless you were to give them a late '40s GM car style fender treatment. Then you get standard doors and hinges. The COE hood would need to be sectioned to PU height dimensions. Adding a couple feet to the bed is a piece of cake. Then a dragster stance, and you have the only one on the planet. See how easy that is?
Arm-chair designer time.
Joe, your idea is a beauty, but it has been done many times.
I have seen a lot of coe turned pickups with a bed, but the front fenders dont match the rear fenders unless they make the rears much larger. I have also seen coes with big truck front fenders with the bottoms cut off too, but the large wheelarch. all of them are too big to fit in a std 7 ft garage.
I havent ever seen a 1/2 ton front on a coe. can you show me one? or many? I only have the side view to go on, it would be helpful to see a 3/4 view with the narrow 1/2 ton hood. like I said, coe parts are expensive, so using a shortened and taller 1/2 ton hood would be unique, at least I have never seen one.
believe it or not I have solutions (at least forethought) for both the door hinges and the hood. and also the hood hinges, on a coe they use a fence hinge at the top, mine would still hinge and open like a 1/2 ton.
Skip
Well-known member
I am not surprised that you have thought it out already. I love mental exercises like this. Can't wait to see what comes out of your shop (mind) next.
shoot, I was hoping to see one from the front.
my side profile made me say hmm, maybe, but it could just be I ms painted something that in reality wont look as nice.
I like dr cranks too, a LOT, similar door work and hood work!
my side profile made me say hmm, maybe, but it could just be I ms painted something that in reality wont look as nice.
I like dr cranks too, a LOT, similar door work and hood work!
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
thanks!
yes, my thought process was, use as many parts as I could to keep the fab to a minimum. keep the 116" wheelbase because it has to fit in my garage, I am an AC baby.
so the V6 and trans will be in its original position, not moved back 7.5 inches like I normally do, but an e fan will be needed. I also considered a OM617 mercedes turbo diesel and auto trans for that clackity clack.
the bed will be a standard AD long bed. I actually found one NEXT DOOR to my shop, couldnt see it till they mowed, still waiting on word if they will sell (not too hopeful given his attitude on the land)
the running boards can be standard longbed AD running boards too.
a std coe stands about 14" off the frame on a big table-legged style bracket, take out the 7" that mine will be lower and that means 7" taller brackets, but I also lower my trucks 3" with springs and so if I just lower the front clip and bed I can build mounts that are 4" taller and keep the "on stilts" look to minumum. mounts will be thicker and boxed though for sure.
I am thinking a very small trans tunnel for the distributor, change the angle of the steering column and of cooooourse all the door and hood fab hahah. like skip says "see how easy?"
yes, my thought process was, use as many parts as I could to keep the fab to a minimum. keep the 116" wheelbase because it has to fit in my garage, I am an AC baby.
so the V6 and trans will be in its original position, not moved back 7.5 inches like I normally do, but an e fan will be needed. I also considered a OM617 mercedes turbo diesel and auto trans for that clackity clack.
the bed will be a standard AD long bed. I actually found one NEXT DOOR to my shop, couldnt see it till they mowed, still waiting on word if they will sell (not too hopeful given his attitude on the land)
the running boards can be standard longbed AD running boards too.
a std coe stands about 14" off the frame on a big table-legged style bracket, take out the 7" that mine will be lower and that means 7" taller brackets, but I also lower my trucks 3" with springs and so if I just lower the front clip and bed I can build mounts that are 4" taller and keep the "on stilts" look to minumum. mounts will be thicker and boxed though for sure.
I am thinking a very small trans tunnel for the distributor, change the angle of the steering column and of cooooourse all the door and hood fab hahah. like skip says "see how easy?"
Attachments
Skip
Well-known member
If I was closer, I'd say stop over and pick up a pair of bed sides. I have two setsand a bunch of pieces. I was going to cut them into shorter beds for bobbers. I may still do it. Maybe take orders for specific sizes.
3500 mile 3 day round trip for parts I am down hahah
well not really. thanks for the generous offer though. maybe I could catch a soros protestor bus on its way to porty? paint cans, bricks and rocks on the way and some bedsides on the way back. [cl[cl
back on bickle. my delay is the title work is done for the NNP and the closing date is finally next week. the lovely lady with the house is taking care of her sister with dimentia, and so when there is paperwork to run around I do it. mom has also had some honey dos. add to that summer gymnastics for the beeps and I run around a lot!
lights in, the 98+ s10 wiring harness has a ground triggered headlight system that cant have the grounds or the 12v+ tied together, so like normal I use a headlight that has two chambers, a H4 hi/lo and an H3 fog, I use just the H4 low beam and then wire the high beam to the fog. i did it with a relay system once, FOUR relays to keep the hi/lo separated and the DRLs still didnt work, so thats 32 bucks in a pair of new 3 prong 7" lights, and $40 in relays. these headlights are $60 a pair with new bulbs. they also solve a problem that all 40-50s trucks have, broken headlight adjusters. I think I have maybe had one truck with adjusters that worked. these new lights have their own mounting ring and adjuster so I just cut the old bucket (have to have a way to attach the headlight ring) and trim it to fit.
I will maybe fix that rust hole on the fender, and I need to run by the shop and see if I have better trim rings, neither have the upper snap and this one I think is from a ford haha.
after that I put the air director and horns in under the hood latch plate and tested the lights.
good ta good ta good ta go solo.
on the rear fenders I had a problem, the previous owner had started sanding on one I guess to assess the condition, so it was half bare/primer, I took my phone into the big wall of colors at menards and picked a sunburst yellow, pretty good match!
I will sand the whole truck lightly with some 600 so dont focus on the tiger stripes, its meant to be be thin enough to sand through.
I would have had it off the jack stands but putting the cotter pins in the tie rod and one castle nut wants to tighten then strip, tighten then strip. I actually double nutted it and got it cranked way down and cottered, but I am typing this here to keep myself honest and fix it tomorrow, either with a new castle nut or even a new tie rod (its new, just one of those things)
well not really. thanks for the generous offer though. maybe I could catch a soros protestor bus on its way to porty? paint cans, bricks and rocks on the way and some bedsides on the way back. [cl[cl
back on bickle. my delay is the title work is done for the NNP and the closing date is finally next week. the lovely lady with the house is taking care of her sister with dimentia, and so when there is paperwork to run around I do it. mom has also had some honey dos. add to that summer gymnastics for the beeps and I run around a lot!
lights in, the 98+ s10 wiring harness has a ground triggered headlight system that cant have the grounds or the 12v+ tied together, so like normal I use a headlight that has two chambers, a H4 hi/lo and an H3 fog, I use just the H4 low beam and then wire the high beam to the fog. i did it with a relay system once, FOUR relays to keep the hi/lo separated and the DRLs still didnt work, so thats 32 bucks in a pair of new 3 prong 7" lights, and $40 in relays. these headlights are $60 a pair with new bulbs. they also solve a problem that all 40-50s trucks have, broken headlight adjusters. I think I have maybe had one truck with adjusters that worked. these new lights have their own mounting ring and adjuster so I just cut the old bucket (have to have a way to attach the headlight ring) and trim it to fit.
I will maybe fix that rust hole on the fender, and I need to run by the shop and see if I have better trim rings, neither have the upper snap and this one I think is from a ford haha.
after that I put the air director and horns in under the hood latch plate and tested the lights.
good ta good ta good ta go solo.
on the rear fenders I had a problem, the previous owner had started sanding on one I guess to assess the condition, so it was half bare/primer, I took my phone into the big wall of colors at menards and picked a sunburst yellow, pretty good match!
I will sand the whole truck lightly with some 600 so dont focus on the tiger stripes, its meant to be be thin enough to sand through.
I would have had it off the jack stands but putting the cotter pins in the tie rod and one castle nut wants to tighten then strip, tighten then strip. I actually double nutted it and got it cranked way down and cottered, but I am typing this here to keep myself honest and fix it tomorrow, either with a new castle nut or even a new tie rod (its new, just one of those things)
