gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
Evil oil can[ddd
The roof and doors on your cab are stamped domes. The dome shape is what gives that large expanse of metal it's strength.
When you cut and weld the dome sheet metal shrinks. This removes the tension, and allows the dome to collapse. Some times just enough to oil can, some times a collapse of more significant.
On the roof panel I found it needed to have hammer and dolly work to restore the dome prior to doing any cuts. This relieved any unwanted tension and distortion before the cut.
After the cut the weld needs to be done slowly to prevent introduction of large amounts of distortion by way oh shrinking the weld area.
I use MIG and but weld the joint. To hammer and dolly the weld, the weld needs to be ground very smooth. The ability to hammer weld is very limited D/T the additional hardness of the MIG wire weld.
Once the weld is ground to the same thickness of the surrounding metal, on the inside and out, you can start to hammer and dolly to repair any distortion introduced by welding.
I have found that the oil caning on my door and roof was caused by the dome being shrunk, not stretched. To repair the oil can I use soap stone to mark the very outer edges of the oil can area.
Now you to grow muscles. I use a large surface area dolly with a slight crown that closely matches the profile of the desired dome. The hammer I use is very flat. This allows the metal to form over the dolly in the desired direction. I used a lot of dolly pressure. In areas I could not reach I used an adjustable pipe Stand modified to support the dolly. I dollied the weld area first, then started on the outer edge of the oil can area. Thousands of hammer blows moving the metal very slowly follow the outer edge of the oil can. Recheck where the edge moves to, mark it, more hammer and dolly. Hammer in a pattern that will reform the original dome shape with out raising localized high spots.
The door on my passenger door was damaged and collapsed from impact. I repaired the damage and misinterpreted the oil can as stretch. I proceeded to shrink the skin in order to eliminate the oil can. I collapsed the entire lower door dome
Much hammer and dolly work was required to restore the dome. I did this before I did the roof and learned several lessons.
This is what I did. With out seeing your roof, and the condition of the roof damage preexisting the chop, I can't help much. I did find several small areas on the roof that needed shrinking, but the majority required stretching. The most important thing I found was to grind the welds so they closely resembled the surrounding metal in thickness. Any additional build up will limit your ability to metal sharp the area.
Hope you can find some helpful points you can apply to your situation.
Try the pipe stand dolly. A lot of effort, but it gave me the ability to apply enough pressure resulting in less hammer work.
The roof and doors on your cab are stamped domes. The dome shape is what gives that large expanse of metal it's strength.
When you cut and weld the dome sheet metal shrinks. This removes the tension, and allows the dome to collapse. Some times just enough to oil can, some times a collapse of more significant.
On the roof panel I found it needed to have hammer and dolly work to restore the dome prior to doing any cuts. This relieved any unwanted tension and distortion before the cut.
After the cut the weld needs to be done slowly to prevent introduction of large amounts of distortion by way oh shrinking the weld area.
I use MIG and but weld the joint. To hammer and dolly the weld, the weld needs to be ground very smooth. The ability to hammer weld is very limited D/T the additional hardness of the MIG wire weld.
Once the weld is ground to the same thickness of the surrounding metal, on the inside and out, you can start to hammer and dolly to repair any distortion introduced by welding.
I have found that the oil caning on my door and roof was caused by the dome being shrunk, not stretched. To repair the oil can I use soap stone to mark the very outer edges of the oil can area.
Now you to grow muscles. I use a large surface area dolly with a slight crown that closely matches the profile of the desired dome. The hammer I use is very flat. This allows the metal to form over the dolly in the desired direction. I used a lot of dolly pressure. In areas I could not reach I used an adjustable pipe Stand modified to support the dolly. I dollied the weld area first, then started on the outer edge of the oil can area. Thousands of hammer blows moving the metal very slowly follow the outer edge of the oil can. Recheck where the edge moves to, mark it, more hammer and dolly. Hammer in a pattern that will reform the original dome shape with out raising localized high spots.
The door on my passenger door was damaged and collapsed from impact. I repaired the damage and misinterpreted the oil can as stretch. I proceeded to shrink the skin in order to eliminate the oil can. I collapsed the entire lower door dome
Much hammer and dolly work was required to restore the dome. I did this before I did the roof and learned several lessons.
This is what I did. With out seeing your roof, and the condition of the roof damage preexisting the chop, I can't help much. I did find several small areas on the roof that needed shrinking, but the majority required stretching. The most important thing I found was to grind the welds so they closely resembled the surrounding metal in thickness. Any additional build up will limit your ability to metal sharp the area.
Hope you can find some helpful points you can apply to your situation.
Try the pipe stand dolly. A lot of effort, but it gave me the ability to apply enough pressure resulting in less hammer work.
