Heirloom Headache - 1928 Hupmobile Century 6

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The intake air plumbing.

I found some 3.5" steel pipe as well as some 4". I cut the 3.5 into some short 22.5 degree angles to start the bend to mimic the pattern I had laid out on cardboard. The 4" was flattened a bit in my vise till it looked like the intake of the motor. I found a 3.5" rubber sleeve at a hardware store to connect my plumbing to the motor. I also had to build a reducer sleeve to mount from the mass air to the air filter. Finally I finished it of with a cross bracket that connects the alt bracket to the a/c bracket and supports the intake plumbing. All this in just 16 or so hours!
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awesome build.

That is an awesome build.

l need to make some brackets like those[dr

shouldn't the pinion angle be down, not up, cause of the forces twisting trying move it up.

that is what the local 'vette shop told me when l set mine.


Later :cool:
 
Thanks for posting the great pics, looks like you have things sorted out pretty good, it's going to make a great rod and a fine tribute to the family for keeping it around so you can bring it back to life. [cl[cl
 
shouldn't the pinion angle be down, not up, cause of the forces twisting trying move it up.
that is what the local 'vette shop told me when l set mine

From what I had read, I sat the engine/trans 3 degrees down, the rear end 3 degrees up, which cancels the driveshaft out at 0 degree.
 
Holy cow! It almost looks like you know what you're doing ;)
Excellent work, very nice. I really like it & look forward to more pictures.
 
Very cool build!! Love the look of the chop. Took some work to get that motor and accessories all stuffed under the hood! Wow - nice work.

For a street car you want the pinion to match the trans - 3 degrees up at the pinion and trans tail down 3 degrees. Strip use might be 3 degrees down at the pinion because the only use it gets is hard acceleration.
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Did you angle your master cylinder so the lid is level? Isn't that how they are all factory mounted? That might cause issues.... might not.
 
From what I had read, I sat the engine/trans 3 degrees down, the rear end 3 degrees up, which cancels the driveshaft out at 0 degree.

You did it exactly right. 3 down on the trans and 3 up on the rear end yoke.

This car is going to make you a great driver. Love the ac and creature comforts.

Don
 
I moved the puter from between the front frame horns to the bottom of the engine compartment on the lower passenger side. Much cleaner and it keeps me from having to build/modify a cover over the frame horns to cover it.
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I like the stance on the car so far, but Im concerned with the front being so low in that I dont think the tires will clear the fenders to turn, so its either widen the fenders for such or change out the spindles to bring things up a bit.
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I like the stance on the car so far, but Im concerned with the front being so low in that I dont think the tires will clear the fenders to turn, so its either widen the fenders for such or change out the spindles to bring things up a bit.
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I don't know man.........that thing looks so freakin' cool where it is that I'd just point it down the road with my foot to the floor and never turn the wheel! [ddd

This is a totally awesome build with great family history. Love the camping pic, it brings back fond memories for me........done a lot of camping as a kid with a tarp stretched from a car or truck! :cool:

[P[P[P
 
You could try a tire that has a little narrower and/or if you had too, slightly lower profile. Does it clear the fender through to turn lock right now? You could also just flare the outside lip of the fender slightly - doubtful anyone would ever notice. If it doesn't actually rub now, It shouldn't be much of a problem. The only time you make tight turns are in parking lots, etc. at low speed.

Is that a straight chop or did you take more out of the front than the back? (I'm to lazy to go back and search :eek:)
 
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From what I had read, I sat the engine/trans 3 degrees down, the rear end 3 degrees up, which cancels the driveshaft out at 0 degree.

reason l asked, my trans is 3 degrees up and my my rearend is 3 degrees down.

l didn't know how the trans mount set the degree on your'es.

sounds like it is right, just opposite of mine.

good job, really like this build.

Later :cool:
 
I moved the puter from between the front frame horns to the bottom of the engine compartment on the lower passenger side. Much cleaner and it keeps me from having to build/modify a cover over the frame horns to cover it.
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I'm wondering if you'll have some issues with heat on the ECM in that area - ? [S I'm not an expert on vehicle ECM's but I am computer kinda' person & heat is a killer to them. Just thinking out loud, carry on.
 
this build is really kool! i dont think you will have problem with the ecm if its down by the frame... All the air moving under the car should keep it cool unless you plan to be stuck in traffic.
 
Got a little work done today framing the interior. I bought a Harbor Freight tubing bender and the extra dies for square tubing and opened them up to accept 1". Im using this tubing to replace the wood framing. Works okay if your persistant. Ive found I can bend 1x1 16GA on a 90 over a length of 18". Bending 90 into a 12" piece is more work than is feasible. I plan to build a jig with a relief to bend the tubing in tight 90's where needed, but thats another day.

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