I need help on Building a frame

[LOWANDRATY]

I am starting on a 32 chevy sedan rat, and I need to build a frame, I guess most of you use 2 x 3 steel for your frames, my question is what makes the best frame ? wall thickness ? dom or cold rolled ect... ? any help would be great, this will be the first frame I have built and I want it to be safe. Also any sugestions on a small 110 mig for using around the house to tack things and work on sheet metal stuff. I'm a harbor freight kind of guy, I have a big old miller at work for the structural stuff. and no I,m not a welder, thats my sons department TIA for any help. ( ken )

 

[sgo70]

I think you're gonna get a lot of replies to use 2x4" tubing, depending on your engine 1/8 or 3/16th wall, I used 3/16" for my SBC that will be pretty hopped up. Adding gussets and fishplates will help strengthen it at the joints as well. In my opinion using angles of 45 or 60 degrees for Z'ing the frame will be stronger although there are some guys that can build a strong frame using 90's. Check out some of the builds such as Donsrods and such, there are a lot more but I can't think of any off hand. This is my first with a bit of overkill, but I'd rather it be too much than not enough. Another link to check out is here:

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28617

 

[LOWANDRATY]

frame

I guess my thinking was off, but is bigger always better, maybe in this case it is, I'm using a 425 caddy motor and 400 trans, change the intake and cam and get 300hp and 500 torque, thats enough to roast the tires, paid $200 for a complete running car, stripped it for motor, trans, rear diff, and steering colum, and scrapped the rest, I made $150 profit on the old sled, so maybe I should use 1/4" wall just for the weight of the motor and trans, I havent started to figure out the z yet, but I belive the angle cuts are the way to go, seems like you get more surface area that way, more surface area should mean more strength, I think but I could be wrong, my wife tells me that all the time

 

[Bonehead]

2X3 3/16 wall is pretty strong. 2x4 would be stronger, but I think both would suit your needs. The 110 welder will handle sheet metal without much discussion. But it sounds like you know the bigger welder would be the one for the frame.

 

[Unkl Ian]

Overall size matters more than walls thickness.

2" x 4" minimum,on edge.

 

[LOWANDRATY]

FRAME

Ok 4x2x3/16 now what, hot roll, cold roll, high carbon, low carbon grrrrrr. too many choices, I need something that will weld easily, and be strong, dont want to get the wrong stuff and go crazy trying to figure out why the weld wont stick. I am no metal man. my oldest son welded in school and worked as a welder for about 6 months after he finished school, then decided it was too hot to do that kind of work. That was 3 years ago, he's going to need some practice. what is it with kids today, they don't want to work at anything hard anymore, when I was 21 I was married and had a new baby boy and a job at my fathers garage, that was 22 years ago and I'm still there, my dad has simi-retired and now I spend most of my time on the phone everyday, trying to keep it running smooth. Thanks for any and all help with this " traditional rod "

 

[sgo70]

I'm no expert again but just your run of the mill cold rolled is enough. Make sure ya buy a bit extra, I bought an extra 10' and ended up with 4 left over. I didn't waste any but it seems like the piece you have is always a little short. Okay insert the jokes now.

For cross members I used 2x2x3/16" and the front bar for the suicide mount was 3"x1/4" and I got the perch welded at a welding shop for $30, there is too much riding on that one piece for me to risk it breaking off.

Sean

 

[roddguy]

In my humble oppinion your frame would be fine built with 2x4x1/8 wall. I let my dad talk me into 2x5 on my frame because of the wheelbase length but I still don't think it was neccesary. To get the best penatration you should V out all your joints. Fish plating is a good idea on any high stress joints but if your making you Z's with 45 or 60 degree angles you can do without as you have plenty of weld area. The real key to a good frame in my oppinion is in the K member. I use 1x2x1/8 wall for this. The K member is the part that really ties it all together. Done right it will keep your frame tight and control any twisting that moster torgue motor you've got there can produce. Read up on as many frame builds as you can find, see what other guys have done and decide from there what you feel will work for you.

 

[donsrods]

I'm with everyone else on the 2 x 4, but for other reasons besides just strength. I think 2 x 3 is fine for something small like a T bucket, but when you put it under a bigger bodied car like a Bobber truck, it looks too wimpy IMO........just not proportional to the rest of the car.

I also like 3/16 versus 1/8 because the extra wall thickness allows you to drill and tap threads for non stuctural items like fuel lines, cables, etc, and get more thread depth than 1/8 provides. The cost difference is so small it just makes good sense I think.

As for hot rolled, cold rolled, etc..........I don't know. I just tell the guy at the steel supply house I want some 2 x 4 x 3/16 tubing and that is what I get. Buy it buy the stick (usually 20-24 feet) you will save money.

Don

 

[LOWANDRATY]

Frame

Thanks for all the info guys, at first I was just thinging about 2x3 so after I put my floor in I would only end up with 4" lost out of the floor (channel) but it looks like I'm going to have have 5" now, plus 4" to 5" out of the top, it's getting smaller inside everytime I think about it, was going to make it a 4 seater at first, but now with the rear z and big trans, gotta push the front seats back some and will only end up being a 2 seater, more room for me looks like me and the wife now no kids ( woo-hoo )

 

[roddguy]

Hey Don, that's a good point about having some meat to drill and tap into. I never concidered that before. Good tip.