International Harvester R-102 bagger

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54IrrationalHarvester

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
Messages
113
Location
rochester ny
A 1954 R-102, I picked her up for $300 delivered- can't beat that!
I hope to work steady on her for a few weeks before it gets too cold to lay on the floor.
Today I purchased 4 feet of 2x6, 12 feet of 2x4 for frame mods, and 2 foot square of 1/4 plate for bag mounts.
I plan on laying out the body cuts tomorrow for the 7 inch chop and 2 inch channel. Figured I would conquer that before I decide to attempt sectioning the body 3 inches. I think i will not do a slanted front window ( I dont have that much skills [;)) like ratrodney and will instead do a chop similar to jmlcolorado has done. I have only read a few builds but you guys really inspire others to be creative.[cl
 

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still more

a few more-

i do not plan on using the hood (great shape), inner fenders (repairable) , running board mounts (great shape), spare tire mount (great shape), heater (unknown condition), air cleaner, fan, or rear fenders so if anyone has a need for them let me know. The running boards and lower parts of rear fenders will need repair but are possibly usable for modifying. I may graft the front face of the front fenders together to make a grille shell unless someone needs them desperately - they are rough shape also..
 

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HEY!!!! Do you had a title for the truck?! If not, GET ONE before you cut up the frame!
I REALLY wish I had before I got rid of my frame. Lesson learned. Never cut into a vehicle before you have a clean title using the factory parts.


Besides that, I'm honered to be mentioned in your first post on the build thread [cl
I saw you post on Rodney's the other night, but hadn't yet seen your thread. Always love seeing others with similar trucks. It's exciting to see what other people do with them!

I don't know if you read through my zillion pages of my thread, but one thing I mentioned in mine is if I were to chop the same truck (or any for that matter) I'd take 1" extra out of the front pillars. If you look at a side profile of mine, you'll see it has an ever so slight 'nose up' look........that's DRIVING ME NUTS!

I took 6 out of mine which I think was about the most I was comfortable with. I'm 5'10" and with a 3" section out of the cab, and with BMW bucket seats right on the floor, I only have a couple inches between the top of my head and the roof. I also used the factory firewall penetration for the steering column, and an S10 tilt wheel. The wheel is much smaller than the original, and even with the smaller wheel AND tilt, it's a chore to get in/out of the truck. (The sacrifices we make to look cool eh?!)

If your shorter it might not be as bad. With your 7" plus 2", you'll be right about the same I think.

Good luck on the build, I will be eagerly following your progress! :D
 
Oh wait, I see 7" chop, 2" channel and 3" section! That's 12" total! That's a HUGE chunk! I would find a board and fasten it 12" shorter than the current roof line and see if toll be able to get in and out.
I can't imagine another 2" out of mine......without a sunroof :)

If you can swing it, more power to ya! :D
 
a few more-

i do not plan on using the hood (great shape), inner fenders (repairable) , running board mounts (great shape), spare tire mount (great shape), heater (unknown condition), air cleaner, fan, or rear fenders so if anyone has a need for them let me know. The running boards and lower parts of rear fenders will need repair but are possibly usable for modifying. I may graft the front face of the front fenders together to make a grille shell unless someone needs them desperately - they are rough shape also..

Don't toss out that heater just yet. In NY, you might want that cute little heat box in the colder months!
I was going to scrap mine too, but the more research I did, I found I really couldn't find anything small enough to look good. Plus, take that box apart, sand and paint it an old color, and it will look rad under that dash!

My heater has a bad fan so I'm on the lookout for one a similar size but with modern components to put in.

If the core is bad, I'd be willing to bet a radiator shop could build you one that works by using your old one as a template.


I too have a wealth of front end parts in the yard now waiting for use.
Worse comes to worse, keep just the first 3" of everything, and mount it up on the garage wall with working headlights as 'art'. I lucked out (maybe not so much me, but the buyer) in that I found a guy in Canada that needed my grill. He got it for a steal since I now have a soft spot for these old binders :)
 
Looks like you're working fast and have a plan of where you're going. I'll be following along for sure.

You might find this link useful for your old heater http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/1006sr_vintage_heater_restoration/

I'm not going to post 4 post like jmlcolorado lol, but I have a question for him. How would he get a title without the truck being complete and road worthy? In Iowa it'd have to be inspected, meaning no cracks in glass, brakes work, all lights and other safety equipment works. Just curious for my own knowledge lol.

Keep up the good work on the truck and keep on posting pics!
 
I to thank you for the mention but my skills are limited as well. Mr Gussetts the big brains and im the big helper...lol
I played my part in helping and design but Im not a real crafty fabber.
If I had the tools I think i could do better but all in good time.
That bein said Im stoked to see another binder on here. Looks like a nice solid start. Keep the pics comin. RR[cl
 
almost ready to chop

I purchased rebar for bracing the cab before cutting and have most of cuts layed out for the top 7 inch chop.
Yesterday picked up 3/16 wall 2x4 steel and some 2x6 for rear z frame.
my welder is cheezy so i plan on renting one for a weekend in the future to weld up my prefabbed goodies. my feed is not consistant so it is a spot welder only.
I plan on keeping front suspension and steering ( with airbags and steering column mods), the bed will be about 4 feet long and have no rear fenders, likely will narrow bed maybe 6 inches to clear tires because the inner fender sorta part of the bed will end up being straight wall.
I have no engine or tranny yet but am leaning toward small block ford because I am most familiar with them. A wrecked parts car likely will be best donor choice.
 

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WOW.. That's a really big chop! Are you sure you can sit in it after you take 7" out? I would put the seat in and tape a piece of card board 7" lower than the roof is now, just to make sure. good luck I'll be watching your progress.
 
Might wanna figure out where your legs are gonna go too. Cardboard 7" lower on the top and wood blocks 5" higher under your seat and feet - then see how you fit. You might want to consider kicking out the firewall a little and dropping the pan where possible. If it's a 3 pedal, your feet might get a little tight too since you need room for the trans.

I say go for it, just think it through. There have been a lot of builds chopped to the max but are practically unstreetable because of it.
 
WOW.. That's a really big chop! Are you sure you can sit in it after you take 7" out? I would put the seat in and tape a piece of card board 7" lower than the roof is now, just to make sure. good luck I'll be watching your progress.

I purchased rebar for bracing the cab before cutting and have most of cuts layed out for the top 7 inch chop.
Yesterday picked up 3/16 wall 2x4 steel and some 2x6 for rear z frame.
my welder is cheezy so i plan on renting one for a weekend in the future to weld up my prefabbed goodies. my feed is not consistant so it is a spot welder only.
I plan on keeping front suspension and steering ( with airbags and steering column mods), the bed will be about 4 feet long and have no rear fenders, likely will narrow bed maybe 6 inches to clear tires because the inner fender sorta part of the bed will end up being straight wall.
I have no engine or tranny yet but am leaning toward small block ford because I am most familiar with them. A wrecked parts car likely will be best donor choice.

Might wanna figure out where your legs are gonna go too. Cardboard 7" lower on the top and wood blocks 5" higher under your seat and feet - then see how you fit. You might want to consider kicking out the firewall a little and dropping the pan where possible. If it's a 3 pedal, your feet might get a little tight too since you need room for the trans.

I say go for it, just think it through. There have been a lot of builds chopped to the max but are practically unstreetable because of it.

Please don't let our comments detour you! If you can make it work, were all for it!
Just don't want to see good metal, and a builder with a dream go down in discouragement over this pivotal first step.
Measure measure measure.....cut :cool:
 
comfort- BLAH!

I likely will push out the firewall for foot comfort and plan on auto tranny.
Decided comfort is last on list - I am prepared to mount a pad on plywood and be a minimalist if needed. Kikely my seat position will be quite layed back.
The body section will only be attempted if everything else turns out perfect.
 
top chop is roughed out

The top is just set in place- cut out 7 inches late yesterday and am pretty happy even if it still needs squaring. :D .
I hope to get out there today and start tacking things up.
The roof filler strip will be cut out of a front fender that has a rotted front face.
 

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