International Harvester R-102 bagger
- Thread starter 54IrrationalHarvester
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54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
thanks
I am exhausted today, spending yesterday welding on my knees on concrete was rough.
I am exhausted today, spending yesterday welding on my knees on concrete was rough.
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
Sounds like its a good time to get a set of knee pads.. or something to kneel on!
the reverend muddy grimes
Brother Binder
hat is NOT a 54. Its a 55. 54 has a split back glass. Also, it would be an R100, R110, R120 so forth.
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
Identification help please?
The firewall has what appears to be a wax marker under the original paint showing a 46.This is written near the hole for the steering column and now looks like rusty writing.
I was told it was a very rare 1954 R102 and the old owner has found very little info on them.
The ID number is R102-25000 stamped into the ID plate.
Is this 25000 ID number signifigant?
I believe the bodies were used in a number of different years and were assigned numbers at time of sale or something like that.
Any history on these trucks would be appreciated.
The firewall has what appears to be a wax marker under the original paint showing a 46.This is written near the hole for the steering column and now looks like rusty writing.
I was told it was a very rare 1954 R102 and the old owner has found very little info on them.
The ID number is R102-25000 stamped into the ID plate.
Is this 25000 ID number signifigant?
I believe the bodies were used in a number of different years and were assigned numbers at time of sale or something like that.
Any history on these trucks would be appreciated.
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Old Iron
Well-known member
This is what I found
"In the light pickup truck arena, the new R-110 pickup was a handsome little rig. The clean lines of the grille, hood and front fenders were simple, but pleasing. Exterior chrome plating was used only sparsely, on the identifying logos and on the door handles, but the design did not need chrome to look good. The 115 in wheelbase model featured a 6.5 foot pickup box, and cost $ 1,384.00. For 1954, IHC introduced the new R-100, which looked exactly as the R-110, but cost US$ 60 less, and carried some improvements. including a bit more horsepower, improved gear ratios, larger brakes, more flexible springs. With a 4,200 lbs GVW (4,600 lbs on R-102) riding a 115 in wheelbase, the power came from a Silver Diamond 220 cid (3.6L), in-line 6-cylinder engine with overhead valves, 104 hp and a 7:1 compression ratio (up from 100 hp and 6.5:1 on the R-110), driving a 3-speed transmission and a semi-floating rear axle. By mid '54 it could also be had with an overdrive transmission which provided a 30% reduction in engine speed at 60 miles per hour, or with a torque converter fully automatic transmission (basically a GM sourced 3-speed Hydramatic). Power steering also became an option. Tire size was 6.00x16 6 ply."
"In the light pickup truck arena, the new R-110 pickup was a handsome little rig. The clean lines of the grille, hood and front fenders were simple, but pleasing. Exterior chrome plating was used only sparsely, on the identifying logos and on the door handles, but the design did not need chrome to look good. The 115 in wheelbase model featured a 6.5 foot pickup box, and cost $ 1,384.00. For 1954, IHC introduced the new R-100, which looked exactly as the R-110, but cost US$ 60 less, and carried some improvements. including a bit more horsepower, improved gear ratios, larger brakes, more flexible springs. With a 4,200 lbs GVW (4,600 lbs on R-102) riding a 115 in wheelbase, the power came from a Silver Diamond 220 cid (3.6L), in-line 6-cylinder engine with overhead valves, 104 hp and a 7:1 compression ratio (up from 100 hp and 6.5:1 on the R-110), driving a 3-speed transmission and a semi-floating rear axle. By mid '54 it could also be had with an overdrive transmission which provided a 30% reduction in engine speed at 60 miles per hour, or with a torque converter fully automatic transmission (basically a GM sourced 3-speed Hydramatic). Power steering also became an option. Tire size was 6.00x16 6 ply."
Old Iron
Well-known member
Could this be a late 54 ? Rev
"IH also had early success with the "Auto Buggy", which started production in February 1907. In the mid-1940s, International released their K and KB series trucks, which were more simplistic than other trucks released in that era. This was followed by the L Series in 1949, which was replaced by the R Series in 1952, followed by the S line in 1955."
"IH also had early success with the "Auto Buggy", which started production in February 1907. In the mid-1940s, International released their K and KB series trucks, which were more simplistic than other trucks released in that era. This was followed by the L Series in 1949, which was replaced by the R Series in 1952, followed by the S line in 1955."
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
hmm
I agree late 54 with a 55 rear window or perhaps an early 55.
what gets me is the ID number being 25000 ..... seems kind of special.[cl
I agree late 54 with a 55 rear window or perhaps an early 55.
what gets me is the ID number being 25000 ..... seems kind of special.[cl
R Pope
Well-known member
IHC was never a slave to convention. They didn't worry much about year-end changes, they incorporated them in production as they were developed. Hidden/non-hidden door hinges, door window heights, two-piece/one piece rear windows, all were running changes.
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
thanks
yes- it seems the more I read the more I agree with what you said.
I believe the cab was shared with Diamond T 323s also in the early 50's.
http://www.curbsideclassic.com/curb...mond-t-model-323-a-rare-diamond-in-the-rough/
yes- it seems the more I read the more I agree with what you said.
I believe the cab was shared with Diamond T 323s also in the early 50's.
http://www.curbsideclassic.com/curb...mond-t-model-323-a-rare-diamond-in-the-rough/
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
working on door fit and roofline tweaking
Been a few cold days and going is very slow. Had to take a day off to think if I was insane for doing this but was back on it yesterday to try and fit the doors before I get the roof welded up. Glad I did because the door edge at roofline was off a bit. I think it is sorted not bad at this point except for the semi buttcrack down the midseam of roof. Flexing the rear cab to get to mate properly caused the rear roof to flatten out a bit. I will piece in a patch after a few releif cuts and likely will do a second skin wider to blend better and give the roof some rigidity. I hate to say it but this will not be a patina vehicle but will need filler. Likely will paint it a flat color and possible paint fade patina into it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWp9XiQIwNc
Been a few cold days and going is very slow. Had to take a day off to think if I was insane for doing this but was back on it yesterday to try and fit the doors before I get the roof welded up. Glad I did because the door edge at roofline was off a bit. I think it is sorted not bad at this point except for the semi buttcrack down the midseam of roof. Flexing the rear cab to get to mate properly caused the rear roof to flatten out a bit. I will piece in a patch after a few releif cuts and likely will do a second skin wider to blend better and give the roof some rigidity. I hate to say it but this will not be a patina vehicle but will need filler. Likely will paint it a flat color and possible paint fade patina into it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWp9XiQIwNc
Attachments
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
I got myself a fairly strong butt crack in mine
I had so many pieces in the roof (I sectioned it all 4 ways) it was inevitable for a first timer.
I ended up re skinning the roof as well, and will also redo the centers on the back and passengers side to clean this up.
Mine was going to be a patina truck too with no paint. Rather than bondo and paint it hough, I'll be using eastwoods body solder kit to fill all the low spots. I've used this kit before and I feel like its WAY easier to use than bondo, plus the finished product is metal
I'll leave it bare and let the parent metal rust. I don't think the 'leadless body solder' will rust so it should give it a cool look.
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
we are twins
LOL- the buttcrack boys
LOL- the buttcrack boys
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
quick clean up and mock up..... I like it !
Spent yesterday recovering from the holiday cluster F.......
Decided to clean up garage work area a bit and cut a test frame template for the rear Zee out of plywood.
I measured height of axle and added 2 inches. That is the height of frame from garage floor to rear rubber snubbers- giving me clearance for larger tires and still be able to lay frame.
If needed later, I can remove snubbers and gain another 2 inches.
the body still needs channeling about 1.5 inches but I will wait till frame is welded first. I will be getting a better welder soon for heavier work.
I hope to get assistance starting my own company and be able to include welding supplies and equipment in the deal. My meeting with unemployment services is the 13th. I am waiting to see if equipment can be written off somehow. I doubt it but want to wait before I spend a grand or so.
What type welder do you recommend for frame and heavy bracketry?
Seems many guys like stick for this?
I have a cheapo 80 amp mig for sheet metal now.
I removed the IH emblem and bar from the grille and will modify them into headlight brackets later.
The bed will be shortened to 4 foot and likely lower than original.
Spent yesterday recovering from the holiday cluster F.......
Decided to clean up garage work area a bit and cut a test frame template for the rear Zee out of plywood.
I measured height of axle and added 2 inches. That is the height of frame from garage floor to rear rubber snubbers- giving me clearance for larger tires and still be able to lay frame.
If needed later, I can remove snubbers and gain another 2 inches.
the body still needs channeling about 1.5 inches but I will wait till frame is welded first. I will be getting a better welder soon for heavier work.
I hope to get assistance starting my own company and be able to include welding supplies and equipment in the deal. My meeting with unemployment services is the 13th. I am waiting to see if equipment can be written off somehow. I doubt it but want to wait before I spend a grand or so.
What type welder do you recommend for frame and heavy bracketry?
Seems many guys like stick for this?
I have a cheapo 80 amp mig for sheet metal now.
I removed the IH emblem and bar from the grille and will modify them into headlight brackets later.
The bed will be shortened to 4 foot and likely lower than original.
Attachments
Old Iron
Well-known member
You've got the ole Binder lookin good
If you're gonna buy equipment for use in a business? Buy good stuff, it's cheaper in the long run.
I'm not affiliated with any of the companies I'm suggesting.
Welder: Miller 252 mig with 30A spool gun. Best place to buy this is usually dabay as a combo package.
Example:
$3438.00 free shipping. ebay
To keep the sparks down get a coldsaw with blade cooler
Example: $2395.00 free shipping. ebay
This is just two. Others will chime in too
If you're gonna buy equipment for use in a business? Buy good stuff, it's cheaper in the long run.
I'm not affiliated with any of the companies I'm suggesting.
Welder: Miller 252 mig with 30A spool gun. Best place to buy this is usually dabay as a combo package.
Example:
To keep the sparks down get a coldsaw with blade cooler
Example: $2395.00 free shipping. ebay
This is just two. Others will chime in too
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
wow
I wish I had funds for that kind of equipment but I likely will have less than $5000 total to invest and I need to be versitile.
I was just dreaming of a water jet.... havn't even looked at their used prices but would be a cool way to get into the market in custom brackets and ornamental gussets etc.
I wish I had funds for that kind of equipment but I likely will have less than $5000 total to invest and I need to be versitile.
I was just dreaming of a water jet.... havn't even looked at their used prices but would be a cool way to get into the market in custom brackets and ornamental gussets etc.
54IrrationalHarvester
Well-known member
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Everybody seams to hee and haw over Miller's and Hobarts up here but like Lincoln's. For the most part, even there low buck welders, come with some pretty cool features. I have a 140 pro which is only 110 volt but it came with the gas setup. And not just one of those funky barb fittings that you slide a hose onto but an actual a.n. fitting. They make a very user friendly welder compared to others. The only downfall is parts can be somewhat hard to find depending on location and what everyone else uses. And for cutting steel, I would suggest a good sized hydraulic band saw. Uses a lot less material than a chop saw. Just make sure that it's a self oiler. It'll save you blades.
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
I'm leaning heavily towards the millar auto set 211 for this type of work.
A stick welder can certainly weld HEAVY steel, but you won't be doing THAT much heavy to justify it I don't think.
I have a buddy that has a Lincoln (not sure the exact size, but it's commercial) and he's trading it in for a millar.
They all have their pros and cons, I've just heard nothing bad to speak of on the millar 211.
A stick welder can certainly weld HEAVY steel, but you won't be doing THAT much heavy to justify it I don't think.
I have a buddy that has a Lincoln (not sure the exact size, but it's commercial) and he's trading it in for a millar.
They all have their pros and cons, I've just heard nothing bad to speak of on the millar 211.
