International L122 B Binder Rat Build

[jmlcolorado]

So....... i need some input.

Leave it rusty or flat black?
The reason i ask is im gonna have to do alot of body solder to hide my impatient welding on sheetmetal. SO, i think the truck, if it will get any paint at all, would get flat black.

What do you guys think?

 

[hotwheels]

As complete as that truck is, i would go with a flat black. If it were just a cab and a bed, i would leave it rusty, but that truck is gonna be schweet.

 

[SugarRay8]

I’m with hotwheels on this one, but really, it will look great either way.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I’m with hotwheels on this one, but really, it will look great either way.

The truck will only be the cab and bed. The grill will get whatever final treatment the rest of the truck will get. I love the patina the truck has but i had to ruin that look by doing the chop on the top.
I think illl go with the flat black. It should end up looking pretty sweet cause ill end up doing a bunch of body filler (body solder)
Then again, im open to opinion

 

[mitchs66]

Dig your build, thats the same style cab I'm getting from my Grandpa. If you like the look you have now, I think you might be surprised how quick it will rust back where you did your grinding and welding. You could even wash it down and help it out.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Well the only problem, which is exactly why I brought this question, is that body filler
Doesn't rust. Its made of lead and tin so it'll oxidize but not rust.


So if I want rust, I'd have to actually use "rust paint" and try to blend it in.

 

[mitchs66]

Depending on how you want the truck to look in the end, I guess if it was my truck I wouldn't use any filler...I would leave the welds the way they came out and run[ Just my opinion though, thats what I like about this so much - NO rules....

 

[clamor]

Well the only problem, which is exactly why I brought this question, is that body filler
Doesn't rust. Its made of lead and tin so it'll oxidize but not rust.


So if I want rust, I'd have to actually use "rust paint" and try to blend it in.

Is it too bad to hammer/dolley it close?
They're rats, they're not supposed to be perfect.

-Chaz

 

[jmlcolorado]

I ended up grafting in a new chunck of tin. Apparently i need to practice my sheet metal welding more before i make a profession outta this

 

[hotwheels]

That's lookin good man...........

 

[jmlcolorado]

Need your opinion please

So..... i was messin around in the garage tonight and came up with this.

What do you guys think?! I wanted the look of a lower roof. This setup litterally doesnt effect the view from inside the truck at all but kinda closes it up from the outside.

I think perforated metal would look cool here rather then solid. Though either might look good.

Id trim the edges of the perforated metal with 1/2" tubing i think, just to make a nice finished look and keep it from flopping around in the wind.

Should i weld it right to the truck or make it bolt on?
Let me know what you think guys.

 

[Sam_Fear]

Use 1/4" tubing. 1/2" will look too heavy.

 

[clamor]

I agree with SF & I love perforated metal.
I used 1/8" thick as shelving on my welding table.
-Chaz

 

[hotwheels]

I want to do the same thing to my truck and i have been wondering about welding or bolt on. After looking at your chop and thinking about glass issues, you may want to build it with a bolt on system instead of weld on. I haven't put my glass in my truck yet, but i know now looking at your set up, i would have trouble getting the windshield in the truck. On the ends of your metal, i would use 1/8" solid rod......

 

[bob w]

I like the idea of a visor too. You might want to try a few different styles. Poster paper is cheap. Perforated sounds like a great idea.

 

[nwaringa]

JML have any of the sheet metal left over still? I am up in North Denver and am working on an L-110.

 

[jmlcolorado]

JML have any of the sheet metal left over still? I am up in North Denver and am working on an L-110.

Yes, in fact i do. I have both front inner and outer fenders, both rear fenders, both side steps, hood and grill.
What are you looking for? maybe i can help you out.

 

[nwaringa]

I'll PM you about it. I really dig your build. You may want to check out some of my pics (or swing up and have a look) to get a better idea how that 350 will fit. The headers are tight but manageable.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Well, im sure ill catch a bunch of hell for the chassis im going to use, but oh well.

Went and picked up a 68 GMC C10 chassis. It has IFS and trailing arms in the rear. Rather then build my own chassis and have to reinvent the wheel, im going to use this one to get the truck on the road faster.

Its a long bedd chassis, and since i cut my bed down to 6 foot, that means that i have room to move the cab back 2 feet to get the look of the front wheels pushed forward for the look. PLUS, i like the cab to be centered in between the wheels. Gives a ballanced look.


The first couple pics are the cab just sitting on the frame with all the springs removed. Basicly completly bottomed out. Just to get an idea of what it'll look like.

Then......off comes the cab for the front Z job. total of 6 inches up front.
The rear will be around 8 inches.

Ill be using 20" wheels to assist in the scrub line isssue that i will certinly have with such a Zee.

I still cant get out of my head the scrub line thing. Is there really a fix for scrub line on a vehical that has bags setup to lay frame? I mean, if i blow a tire, the truck will still have 3 inches before the frame contacts the ground since the tires are only 6 inches larger then the rims.
But (worse case) What if i were to blow a bag AND a tire at the same time?!?! If that were the case, the frame could dig into the ground 6 inches!!!
WOW! If both were to happen at the same time, im sure something else would be seriously wrong and a tire and bag blown would be the least of my concerns.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Here are some more. Removing the cab and starting the front zee.