International L122 B Binder Rat Build

[jmlcolorado]

Oh...... dont think the last picture is all the bracing the frame is getting. Thats just my stoping point for the night. Still gotta do the under side.

 

[jawman]

[P will like to see this one finished. looks like some good ideas here.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I'm trying to not be too "out of the box" on this build since its my 1at truck. So I want this thing to be as reliable as I can. So if a part goes bad, I'd like to he able to buy it off the shelve rather then have to make a new one.

 

[Willowbilly3]

The basic kit is for $595 plus shipping and includes:
A CNC cut and jig welded cross member, steel spring arms ( what hold the axle from moving left and right) upper shock mounts and 2 air bags.

The better kit has all that plus:
lower shock mounts, shocks, swivel perches for the shocks, and spring shackles for $855.

I could design and build my own but i sure like the idea of buying from someone thats done all the work, ya know, to give some credit.

I really like the crossmember idea as it would hide the air shocks well and its a cheaper setup then a mustang II setup plus air bags.

Coo front end. So how much with the axle. spindles, brakes, bags, wishbones and all ready to go in?

 

[Willowbilly3]

This is an awesome build, great job on the chop. I like the fact you want to keep the truck in proportion, too me so many builds trucks aren't. Personally, I don't much care for IFS on fenderless trucks, maybe if you could get some tubular A arms. Sliding the cab back will help and if you can keep the radiator back somehow, not like those S10 builds where it ends up a foot out in front of the tires. And as long as your running that front end, it would be an easy jump up to disc brakes.

 

[jmlcolorado]

This is an awesome build, great job on the chop. I like the fact you want to keep the truck in proportion, too me so many builds trucks aren't. Personally, I don't much care for IFS on fenderless trucks, maybe if you could get some tubular A arms. Sliding the cab back will help and if you can keep the radiator back somehow, not like those S10 builds where it ends up a foot out in front of the tires. And as long as your running that front end, it would be an easy jump up to disc brakes.

Well the goal is to have the radiator stop right at the front tires. I dont want to mgo much past to if i dont have to.

The disk brake swap is defiantly planned in the future for sure, as are tubular control arms too. Those are pretty pricy though.

 

[RAT IHC]

Just caught your build and read through it. Love d'em BINDERS! The dual back window is a great eye catcher...you don't see a lot of those out there.

Great job on the sheet metal work and the frame. IFS I'm sure will get you a lot of flack, but I'm sure everyone will agree that you have to do things how they work for you. When you grafted in the sheet metal on the roof how did you shape it to match the rood line?

Keep up the good work and keep us updated...I'll be watching your build closely.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Just caught your build and read through it. Love d'em BINDERS! The dual back window is a great eye catcher...you don't see a lot of those out there.

Great job on the sheet metal work and the frame. IFS I'm sure will get you a lot of flack, but I'm sure everyone will agree that you have to do things how they work for you. When you grafted in the sheet metal on the roof how did you shape it to match the rood line?

Keep up the good work and keep us updated...I'll be watching your build closely.

Sadly, my sheet metal work isnt as good as it looks. The roof, where i added a 2 inch strip, i welded it too hot and fast that i basicly got a butt crack right down the middle. I was origionally planning on using body lead to fill the inperfections anyways but once i took a close look at it, i would have at least 1/2" of filler in the middle. Not acceptable!

SO, i got that sheet from the scrap yard for $10 and started tacking it. I had to do 2 relife (sp? my head isnt working this morning) cuts in the back to shrink it so it formed the curve back there better.

Its litterally welded right to the top. I will cut out the abbortion inside later since your not supposed to layer metal like that. Creates a rust pocket.

Doing this left me with only a small perimiter that'll need 1/16" of filler which will hold up much better and will be easier to lay.

The back will need some too. Since i never sheet metal welded before this project, it has been a learning lesson.

Guess the guys are right when they say if you cant touch it with your hand, its too hot to continue welding.

 

[Willowbilly3]

Well the goal is to have the radiator stop right at the front tires. I dont want to mgo much past to if i dont have to.

The disk brake swap is defiantly planned in the future for sure, as are tubular control arms too. Those are pretty pricy though.

With the cab and engine back 2 feet you should be able to get the radiator behind the cross member. Then maybe a tank of some sort in front of the rad to hide the cross member a little?

 

[jmlcolorado]

With the cab and engine back 2 feet you should be able to get the radiator behind the cross member. Then maybe a tank of some sort in front of the rad to hide the cross member a little?

Now that's a thought. Could a radiator overflow tank be mounted that low? That's the first thing that comes to mind. Some short, wide aluminum tank.

 

[Sam_Fear]

About scrub line and bags - I'm not real comfortable with my scrub either since my frame will lay. Just a blown bag will get me. At some point I would like to come up with a way to put in dead stops on the suspension to keep my frame above scrub in the event of a failure - at least on the fronts. Maybe something that is electric or pneumatic actuated. In for the road, out for showing off.

 

[jmlcolorado]

About scrub line and bags - I'm not real comfortable with my scrub either since my frame will lay. Just a blown bag will get me. At some point I would like to come up with a way to put in dead stops on the suspension to keep my frame above scrub in the event of a failure - at least on the fronts. Maybe something that is electric or pneumatic actuated. In for the road, out for showing off.

Now thats a thought!
All it would need to be is a 3/8" arm or something that levers over to catch the upper spring mount. I bet you could get an electric actuator that just moved in and out 1" depending on poliarity.
I dont know if pneumatic would be the best option. Something in my head says if a bag fails, why would i want an air operated fail safe?! and i bet it would be more expensive for the same type of actuator in that style.

I think you'd be okay with just the fronts since the brakes do most of the work in the front, and you can drag your tail to safety much easier then push your nose. I dont ever see them kids "draggin frame" driving down the street with the front clip on the asphalt

I like your thinking here.

 

[jmlcolorado]

okay, making progress. Got the top halves of the front Zee done. I wanted to get the cab on temperarly to make my measurements as to where the rear zee needs to be........... and i wanted to see what it looked like [P

I want to do the top halves of the rear zee on each side of the frame, then unbolt the crossmember up front and trailing arms in the rear, fllip the frame over and do the lower sections on all 4 corners.
I cant weld well that close to the ground with no clearance.

The bottom of the front frame rails are 1" off the ground under the cab. My math tells me that a 6" zee in the rear will get the entire frame section directly under the cab to lay down.

Heres what it looks like tonight........

 

[jmlcolorado]

Well, started the rear zee. Cut the frame, set it on the ground then found the drive shaft cross member is holding the back end up 3"! [S

SO, out comes the crossmember to prep for modification.

Gonna have to section it and put it all back together. And now that i have it half way there, it looks like a small C channel will be in order to get it to lay completly. No big deal.

I wasnt planning on using a 2 piece drive shaft, but i think if i do, ill be able to keep the floor of the truck pretty much stock!! [cl

Anyone have any ideas on pinion angles for a 2 piece shaft?
I know on a 1 piece, if the tail shaft is 3*, the axle should be -3*.
But what happend when you raise the engine up a little (4-5 inches)?! Is the angle of the tail shaft and the pinion angle on the axle going to be too much if i try to route the driveshaft under the stock floor?



Anyways, Here is the crossmember and how much ill need to remove off the bottom.

 

[DueceCoupeRat]

hey man awesome build! from colorado springs would love to see it in person some day.

 

[jmlcolorado]

hey man awesome build! from colorado springs would love to see it in person some day.

Thanks man!
i hope to have it drivable this spring, just enough to hit the shows with it. Next winter it'll probably get broke down to change stuff once i drive it around a bit.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Well, i got the rear crossmember out and ready to modify so it doesnt keep the frame from touching when dropped.
Rather then messing with that tonight, i wanted to set the bed in place to get an idea of the final look when its parked.
Driving, it'll lift up 4-6 inches but this is the parked look. It looks exactly what i pictured on my head!

What do you think?!


Im actually pretty happy with the bed height. I'll hava about 12-14 inches on bed sides. I'm building the bed to be able to still haul stuff. Old school bobbered motorcycle to be exact

I just has an odd ball idea of making the tail gate double as a motorcycle ramp since the bed floor is so low. I'd drop the gate and remove some quick hinges, turn the tailgate 90 degrees to set up to roll bikes up and down.

 

[clamor]

Well, i got the rear crossmember out and ready to modify so it doesnt keep the frame from touching when dropped.
Rather then messing with that tonight, i wanted to set the bed in place to get an idea of the final look when its parked.
Driving, it'll lift up 4-6 inches but this is the parked look. It looks exactly what i pictured on my head!

What do you think?!


Im actually pretty happy with the bed height. I'll hava about 12-14 inches on bed sides. I'm building the bed to be able to still haul stuff. Old school bobbered motorcycle to be exact

I just has an odd ball idea of making the tail gate double as a motorcycle ramp since the bed floor is so low. I'd drop the gate and remove some quick hinges, turn the tailgate 90 degrees to set up to roll bikes up and down.

I love it all

 

[jmlcolorado]

I'm liking it a lot too!

Now that I have the look I'm going for, its time to make it work

I don't know what the heck to call the truck. Its 1/2 international with a gmc chassis.

 

[clamor]

a rat?