International L122 B Binder Rat Build

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The view isn't too bad. Since I sit so close to the glass it doesn't block much. No more then a high rise intake and a tall supercharger would.
I'll have to snap a few pictures though that really won't give a real sense of the view.
Only problem is I didn't think of the legality of said modification.
Semis have them though [S
 
The view isn't too bad. Since I sit so close to the glass it doesn't block much. No more then a high rise intake and a tall supercharger would.
I'll have to snap a few pictures though that really won't give a real sense of the view.
Only problem is I didn't think of the legality of said modification.
Semis have them though [S

You can use the old UNODIR method...Unless Other Wise Directed. :D I think it looks really cool and as long as it doesn't impede with your field of view, I say don't worry about it until directed other wise.

Keep up the good work...Truck is looking great![cl
-Troy
 
You can use the old UNODIR method...Unless Other Wise Directed. :D I think it looks really cool and as long as it doesn't impede with your field of view, I say don't worry about it until directed other wise.

Keep up the good work...Truck is looking great![cl
-Troy

I might go with that method.
Maybe I'll just blow the train horns anytime I am about to move from a stop, just to warn everyone.........within a mile, that it's about to move :)





I'm actually looking forward to the day I meet a train at a crossing and I can blow back as him as he passes :)
 
I don't think you will have any problems with the police. 99% of them will think it came that way from the factory.
 
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That's my thinking. Heck, most of the guys that have seen it in person think its a ford [S which tells me, not many even know what it really it. Though it'll be titled as a ford.

and my ford will be titled as an IH:D:D I'm putting the dual back mailslots in my Ford cab, just to add to the confusion..hehe
 
and my ford will be titled as an IH:D:D I'm putting the dual back mailslots in my Ford cab, just to add to the confusion..hehe

Bwa ha ha ha! That's funny! I like it! [cl

I gotta build a tailgate for my rat, and I'm leaning on putting "Fordernational" in the ford script on the back :)
Wow! Now that I spell that out, makes me realize how much work that'll be [S
Funny thing is there won't be 1 ford part on the truck :rolleyes:
 
I kept a tailgate off one of the IH's I just sold..I'll have to build my own gate, but will skin it with the IH sheetmetal..the gate, the rear windows and vin plate will be the extent of the IH parts on my truck:D well, forgot the pair of rear fenders I'm trying to cobble into a nose piece/grille shell[S[;)

really like your truck, very cool

Tim
 
I like the split windshield idea a lot! I was just wondering if you have sat in it and looked around. Does it seem to be a huge blind spot or is it not that bad? It would be rough to pull out of a driveway and look down the street only to have someone walk out in front of you and you hit them before you knew what happened. I like and and would keep it unless it's crazy hard to see blind spot. If it is you could always make it a little narrower.

Okay, here's the best way to describe the loss of view.... Or the sacrifice of pure style, whichever way you wanna look at it :D
Find something 4" wide, then hold it at arms length. That's the distance from me to the windsheild. That is my blockage of view. Really not bad. And if I move my head 2" either direction, I see what I didn't before.
It might take some getting used to and a slightly heightened sense of perception when navigating a busy parking lot, but it's not like wearing a welding helmet and driving :D
 
Need some opinions here guys

Got my steering wheel in about where I want it. Don't judge my welds, this piece was thin and kept burning through :mad:

Anyways, the end of the shaft ended up lower then I wanted. I need the shaft to stop near the top of the frame cause I'll need to run a long bar on the top, then a u joint to transfer to the outside of the frame to the steering box.
I put a level across the top of the frame to illustrate where the shaft needs to go.
Should I take the effort in shortening the column 3" or so? That sure seems like a lot of work for little gain, but if that's what it takes.
I can't slide it into the cab any more as its already in my lap and if I move it in more, it'll be at my chest :/


0f6f6f52.jpg


This image you can see the shaft out the firewall inboard of the frame, then the rag joint outboard of the frame

b542911b.jpg
 
Damn! :mad:
I see what I need to do now.
Gotta cut it out and raise it up to have less of an angle :rolleyes:
I dunno why I didn't think of that before I started welding it in.

Guess that's what happens when friends come over and distract you.

I really didn't want to change the little beads on the firewall. I liked them and they added strength. But the y bead will have to go I guess.

Oh well.
Guess I need to pull the engine too so I can have full access for cleaner welds too.....cause those just don't cut it!
 
Love the build!

Instead of welding the column to the firewall, make a plate from 1/8" and tack weld it to the column at the proper angle. Bolt the plate to the firewall. Once everything is good, finish weld.

Keep the welds on the inside. The thin metal with gaps problem goes away and the plate might actually strengthen the firewall.

I'd shorten the column if that's what it takes to get the steering wheel in a comfortable position. In the long run a comfortable driving position is more important than the couple hours it would take to shorten it.
 
Yes, do what DJ said. You can probably leave the firewall beads, just have to place the bolts to miss them. Also you can angle the bottom of the column outboard a bit if you find that eases the u-joint and shaft installation. A little side to side angle on the steering wheel isn't noticeable when driving.
 
Nice easy fix! Thanks guys. It looks like the colum was welded but it isn't. That's a sleeve that was welded to the column. I carefully cut it off so the column slides into it. I wanted the column to be able to be removed, for obvious reasons :rolleyes:

I'll do the 1/8" plate inside so it can remain removable.

That's why i love this site! It would taken me a week to figure that out!

Seems like I shouldn't have ever done any work on it last night. :rolleyes: glad I didn't work on anything else important :D
 
So I'd like some thought on this radiator my neighbor had. $100 and it's mine.

It's exactly the dimensions I need except backwards. I need it to be taller them wide.

How's about cutting out the filler neck, and re tig welding it to the "top"?
Might have to extent the neck up a few inches so that it'll fill up enough?

Thoughts?
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I apparently need some education on how radiators are built and function too.

I always thought that all the little tubes were all together causing the antifreeze to enter them, pass back and forth through the radiator allowing cooling. My thinking was that this action kept the same amount of fluid in contact with the cooling fins as long as possible to cool as much as possible.

I was thinking the tubes looked similar to a transmission cooler, or even a refrigerator coil on the back.

In looking inside this radiator, It seems the tubes only go from one side to the other. So anti freeze would fill from the bottom, work it's way to the other side rather quickly, then re enter the engine?K [S

Also, on a SBC 350, does HOT coolest enter the top or bottom of the radiator? Does the water pump suck or pump from the lower hose?
 
Thermostats typically let the water back into the block, so that is your flow direction....
You sure there is not a baffle plate mid way making it a dual pass?
 
Thermostats typically let the water back into the block, so that is your flow direction....
You sure there is not a baffle plate mid way making it a dual pass?

Well.... As usual..... Get to learn as I go :rolleyes:

I have no clue if it has a baffle plate. I can look down the filler neck and see all the way to the bottom if that means anything.
 

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