Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
I like over and wide. Leave the other tube alone.
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Jeep Engine Build
- Thread starter bob w
- Start date
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zzrodder
It ain't grey hair, it's chrome!
What Doc said.
However, being a sucker for punishment, I'd build a custom tube manifold with equal length runners, keep the plenum small,.... if only for the "wow" factor.
But that's just me, I know that's a bunch more fab work....
However, being a sucker for punishment, I'd build a custom tube manifold with equal length runners, keep the plenum small,.... if only for the "wow" factor.
But that's just me, I know that's a bunch more fab work....
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
What Doc said.
However, being a sucker for punishment, I'd build a custom tube manifold with equal length runners, keep the plenum small,.... if only for the "wow" factor.
But that's just me, I know that's a bunch more fab work....
zz, I've built two of them, one for the Ford 6 in the dragster and one on the slant 6 in my roadster. I will no doubt build an intake for this thing too. Just not right away.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Got Lucky
Carefully excised the down tube with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel and bolted the manifold in place. Figured I would put a bend in the removed pipe for practice. Used the borrowed (for 10 years now) JD2 manual bender. I was surprised the bend only shortened the overall length an inch (2.54 cm). I can reuse the removed pipe and will weld it in place tomorrow. BTW it clears with or without the 2" carb spacer.
Carefully excised the down tube with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel and bolted the manifold in place. Figured I would put a bend in the removed pipe for practice. Used the borrowed (for 10 years now) JD2 manual bender. I was surprised the bend only shortened the overall length an inch (2.54 cm). I can reuse the removed pipe and will weld it in place tomorrow. BTW it clears with or without the 2" carb spacer.
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Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
Yay, Uncle Bob!
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bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
A little dressing up on the tube ends and it was ready to tack back in place. Not too outlandish. Started making a cross shaft / bell crank for the throttle linkage so it lines up with the gas pedal. There's bushings inside the long hex nuts, which are drilled out.
Thank you to everyone that is following along on this build thread and making comments. Much appreciated.[cl
Thank you to everyone that is following along on this build thread and making comments. Much appreciated.[cl
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soltz
The Rat Captain
Coming along nicely [cl
And your welcome
!!
Old Iron
Well-known member
Moving the engine over made less interference with the drivers side tubing and carb.
[P[P[P
[P[P[P
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Torchie
Well-known member
[P [P [P
Torchie
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
The throttle linkage is done except for a little trimming and welding. I used the original linkage and some parts and pieces I had laying around. Trying to use up available items rather than buying more.
Randy, the guy that bought my Rover stopped by with the car. He has fixed all the little things I didn't get to and also made some nice improvements. He and his girlfriend really love the little beast. Says he can go 80 mph with the 88 inch wheelbase critter. It is important that everyone that buys from me is happy with the vehicle.
I was a beautiful, warm day so most of it was spent doing leaf management, a final mowing, dog washing and so on.
Randy, the guy that bought my Rover stopped by with the car. He has fixed all the little things I didn't get to and also made some nice improvements. He and his girlfriend really love the little beast. Says he can go 80 mph with the 88 inch wheelbase critter. It is important that everyone that buys from me is happy with the vehicle.
I was a beautiful, warm day so most of it was spent doing leaf management, a final mowing, dog washing and so on.
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donsrods
Well-known member
I read this entire thread, Bob, and you really have done a nice job on this project. But I bet it is going to be faster than you thought !
DozerII
Well-known member
Great progress Bob, the throttle linkage turned out very well. [P[P[P
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
Looks good, Bob.
Just curious... why vacuum secondary?
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Just curious... why vacuum secondary?
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bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Thank you Don and Dozer. I follow your builds closely. I am a Facebook friend with your son Don. That's how I found out you were okay during your long hiatus from UDS. Sure glad you are back building and posting.
Doc, that is just a "put something on there" carb. I do use vacuum secondary carbs a lot. They are good for people that can't tune a carb, like me. The engine takes what it needs. So if it is overcarbed it is okay.
Doc, that is just a "put something on there" carb. I do use vacuum secondary carbs a lot. They are good for people that can't tune a carb, like me. The engine takes what it needs. So if it is overcarbed it is okay.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Since it will have rear brakes only I adapted the bracket for the new a Willwood single master cylinder. A few minor mods were need on the pedal too.
Next is splitting the wishbone and fitting it with Heim joints. Then on to installing the front axle assembly to the frame.
Next is splitting the wishbone and fitting it with Heim joints. Then on to installing the front axle assembly to the frame.
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Old Iron
Well-known member
Looks like you're getting really good at cutting the bars off without digging into the bar it's connected to.
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
I have the skill of a surgeon with an angle grinder and cut off wheel.
I have some left over female Heim joints and not wanting to buy anything I decided to use them. Then I pie cut the wishbones and bent them out just wider than the frame.
The second pic shows the axle location pushed out beyond the existing front crossmember. About 8" longer wheelbase than before at 106". I can put in a new crossmsmber back 3-4" to shorten the wheelbase, probably creating better overall proportions. It's too much work, but I wish I could put the body on and check the proportions.
Here's a pic of the "before" wheelbase. How would it look with the front wheels 8" farther forward?
The nose piece would be about 4" forward.
I have some left over female Heim joints and not wanting to buy anything I decided to use them. Then I pie cut the wishbones and bent them out just wider than the frame.
The second pic shows the axle location pushed out beyond the existing front crossmember. About 8" longer wheelbase than before at 106". I can put in a new crossmsmber back 3-4" to shorten the wheelbase, probably creating better overall proportions. It's too much work, but I wish I could put the body on and check the proportions.
Here's a pic of the "before" wheelbase. How would it look with the front wheels 8" farther forward?
The nose piece would be about 4" forward.
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![DSC_0047_03[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/ratrodsrule/data/attach/144/144964-DSC-0047-03-1-.jpg)
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