Kechi 1949 3100 4.3 4L60e

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kydex is a pvc material that looks like abs plastic, its super flexible and super strong. I live in a big aircraft manufacturing area and the aircraft guys use kydex for interior panels and baggage compartments because it doesnt get white lines when you bend it like abs. there is a surplus store here that sells it, they are out right now but the next time they have some I am buying it all, it is super useful stuff.

OK, thanks. You may have mentioned it before and I just forgot. Doesn't sound like I can go to Home Depot and pick up a sheet.....
 
got sidetracked lowering the motor 3/8" on the passenger side, it was really close to the firewall and lowering makes it possible to change the cap and rotor haha. no pics, its probably more interesting in your imagination.


on the last truck I just screwed the plastic pcm mount to the inner, not very elegant on a curved fender. on this on I made a nice sheetmetal mount that holds at the original mount holes and mounted that to the inner that I flattened slightly. I didnt want water and dirt sitting between the inner and the mount so I used a 13mm and an 8mm socket taped in the vise like a dimple tool, worked out great I think.

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then I trimmed the stock battery mount and got it in the fender too.

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normally I wouldnt do stuff like this till it was running, but I have been here before and I know the terrain.

still splitting time at the new place and regular work, more progress soon.
 

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i decided to tackle the AC box, since I couldnt find the hood bolts even though I bought two sets, one then another when I couldnt find the first. :rolleyes:

I needed to trim the blower off first, so I used the saw from my miter box, it is a great way to cut absolutely straight in plastic. I cut in a different spot than the last one and it worked great.

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there was a lot of tree debris in this one, this is after shaking it all out

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wrangling the octopus was fun, if you remember I pulled this fully charged so one less step when done. in application of joedoh law, the pcm did not fit by a slight amount (note the empty spot under the ac box), so it all had to come back out

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a little technical tapping fixed it.

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already 10lbs of stuff in a 5lb engine compartment but I still need an overflow tank and the intake!

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supposed to be cooler today, lets see if I can turn the truck around and get the axle swapped before the heat comes up.

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right about here is where I figured out a 53" driveshaft is about 1.5" too long. I am using an ext cab and my hubris in successfully shortening the chassis made me forget its 1" shorter than the longbed chassis, and my aggressive motor move took the other 0.5". so off to ITP to have the driveshaft shortened. exactly what I AVOIDED doing and COULD HAVE DONE with the ext cab driveshaft I already had, with the matching 4 bolt flange that is unique to the 98-03 ext cab rears.

however, when I came back to pick it up, it looked remarkably different.
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turns out I had passed on my good fortune (or lack of by namesake) to the driveline shop at ITP, and the lathe went rouge with the demons of stuck bolts or mild annoyances. it was a crumpled ball, and so the only part I got back that I had dropped off was the trans yoke.

fits well!

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remember that this is with the driveline at full droop, it will go in the trans another 0.5" or so when off the stands. which it is now, but I didnt take a picture to show something I can obviously explain.

all pushed back in now and ready to move on. nice to use the gearshift and park instead of hunting blocks of wood to keep from rolling.

oh and by the way, it was 93 with 58% humidity. I likely lost 4 lbs sweating out there.
 

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so I lost a day yesterday. i have been cruising all the online marketplaces for some cheapo rims, a couple weeks ago found a set of 14" s10 steels with dog dish caps for $40 and the guy took my info and then ignored me, still for sale, guess I smell. but yesterday.

I found a set of mislisted wheels, love when that happens, nice looking set of chrome rallies and caps listed as stock wheels WITH tires, in the electronics section. good price, but 2 hours away. asked the guy to verify the bolt pattern, he didnt want to do it but sent me a picture of one of those wheel pattern guide disks on the back of the wheel and said "5 on 4 3/4". so I went for a drive. get there and he is mad I want to put a tape measure on them still, he shows me his wheel guide and uses 3/8th bolts to drop through the lug holes oh honey.

I explain his method is suspect (a 3/8 bolt is missing an 8th, on a circle thats 1/4" difference) and pop out a tape measure, center of one hole to edge of one across, 5". crapola.

he argues. doesnt like my method. so I go to the truck and get the spacer I keep in it as a wheel checker. take his guide and show him the spacer is 4 3/4 studs, then show him the spacer wont go through the wheels holes. he still argues. I show him how the wheel guide lines up PERFECTLY with the 5" holes. he argues. I guess he thinks I am NEGOTIATING. I just curse quietly and drive home. didnt touch anything at all yesterday haha.


but today I got all the wiring strung and all the accessories hooked up. plug and play is great because you just screw the grounds down and plug everything in.

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the only thing not plugged in is the heater controls, brake switch, BCM, light switch, fuse box, etc etc

underhood I moved the battery forward two inches. I tried not to, but in the end it was easier to do it.

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so TOMORROW I will get the lower rad hose I need, the trans fluid (the dipstick gasket dumped at least 70 oz one day) and a couple other little bittle things and MAYBE just maybe try a start.

I still want to smack that guy two hours away. the drive might be worth it.
 

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Wheel ads always mystify me. People don't post the width, bolt pattern, or backspace/offset, and expect people to want to drop hundreds of dollars on a set of wheels. Some diligence on the sellers (and buyers) part makes for a happy transaction for all involved.
 
funny thing burg, I was more upset at the wasted hours than the wasted gas, which cost real money.

sno I dont understand it. I even told him how to measure and he still used his pattern guide and flawed logic. :confused:
 
great stuff guys!


in case you need a longer lower rad hose for your s10 swap, masterpro 91241

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got the rad hooked up and adapted a new air filter. the band clamp isnt on in this piicture but is in subsequent pics. it was a 3" filter and the AFM is 3.25, so I had to carve it open a little with a tiny flap disk on my roloc grinder.

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filled up all the fluids including the 80 oz of ATF that came out changing the trans dipstick grommet (i measured it with QuikTrip cups! always have spares of those). checked all the connections one last time and rolled it out.

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a few dry heaves and shes alive. (click to play)

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oil pressure looks great. no leaks, seems ok!

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george the ghost gave up a set of hood bolts too!

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