Making your own turn signal switch???

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After doing more research I think I need a single pole /double throw switch with a "center off" position?

What do you think? Where do you ground a single pole/double throw switch?
 
No need to ground the switch. The ground is at the bulbs. Yes you need a double throw switch with on "off" center position. It can be single or double pole. Double pole gives you 2 terminals per side so you don't have to siamese the left front and left rear wires. Same for the right side.
 
I forgot to mention the diagram I posted has flashers for an MG and my wiring diagram has one wire for the turn flashers and one for the hazard flashers. Can I run my hazards on a different switch or do they need to be on the same switch... and how do I need to wire MY flashers to the diagram posted above?
 
Yeah, I've seen those and that would work just fine except I wouldn't learn anything about turn signal switches and wiring if I got that. I'm not trying to be hard headed, I just want to really learn how this stuff works... it's fun for me.

... and who knows, maybe I can start making these toggle switches and selling them to you guys for cheaper than these big retailers.
 
I don't know if this is right so back me up here. I came up with this diagram with the flashers (one wire) I'm using. Do I splice the flasher into two... one going to the switch and the other going to all four NO terminals?

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switch

hey, go pick up the latest issue of rod and custom (feb) they show a step by step of a toggle switch install. with part numbers from american autowire, the kit they install is called the highway 15 kit, the american autowire switch i used on the crush was easy to wire up, only took 6 connections and the part number is 500148 they call it a toggle turn switch, its the same one they install in the artical too.

i also have sequential turnsignals on the rear of mine and all lights work and dont affect the brake lights, george
 
This should work,and just hook your inside indicator lights to the same terminals the front sigs are hooked to. To hook a hazzard to this design will require some work because of back feeds or not including all lights.
 

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Can I just splice off of my L & R front and L & R rear turn signals to run the hazards to another switch without effecting the turn signal switch?

If it has power and is not hooked to the turn signal switch at all the when in the "off" position it shouldn't effect anything....... right?[S[S[S:confused:

My wiring kit came with 2 separate wires... one for the turn flashers and one for the hazard flashers. Is it possible the hazards wire is already connected to the turn signals through the fuse block?
 
Can I just splice off of my L & R front and L & R rear turn signals to run the hazards to another switch without effecting the turn signal switch?

This will cause the fronts to lite when you hit the brakes or the blinkers to do bithe sides depending how its wired( unless you use a four throw hazzard switch.




If it has power and is not hooked to the turn signal switch at all the when in the "off" position it shouldn't effect anything....... right?[S[S[S:confused:

Not sure what your asking here??




My wiring kit came with 2 separate wires... one for the turn flashers and one for the hazard flashers. Is it possible the hazards wire is already connected to the turn signals through the fuse block?

Did your kit come with a schematic? what column are you using? Most of these issues are fixed by the signal and hazzard switches in the column,see they use multi throw contacts to prevent backfeeds
 
The two wire may be, The signal(blinkers) is a key on power where the Hazzard is a all time hot power? That way the key doesnt have to be "on" to use the hazzards.
 
Ok if you made two relay packs(4relays) and wired the blinkers like the first schematic and the second like this and hooked the two together I think this will work.LOL
 

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Thanks for all your help. I finally got it working right. I don't know if the diagram I had for the relays was old, but the terminal locations must have been different than what I had on paper. I moved the 4 flasher wires from the top relay terminals to the second row and moved the brake switch to the top row.
 
Makes sense. The schematic you posted was kinda odd. When a relay energizes it creates a magnetic field which would normally PULL the contact arm towards it, not push it away as pictured.

Glad you got it figured out. Electrical problems can be a challenge.
 
Keep in mind a schematic represents the path that the current will travel. Not all relays and swiches are made the same so its important to know the terminals that operate the coils, and the common from the norm open and norm closed. Unless a drawing is made for a specific application location of the wires may be different than the drawing but the function will be the same.
 

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