Metal Filler for filling pitting

[pistolpete]

I know this maybe better suited to another site, but I see enough rust on everything else around here I don't want to see it on my car.

I am wanting to do a bit of a skim coat on my frame to smooth out some of the light pitting that it has. I am in the process of patching the worst area's and now the patched areas look new where the rest has the typical 80 year light pitting. I am debating about using a metal filler and doing a skim coat and then sand down to get a somewhat smooth look to the frame (not perfect but better then it is now).

Is it worth my time and $$?

I was thinking something like All-Metal or something similar. Words of advice, or is there another product that would suit my needs better. I have never really done body work so I don't really know what is out there. I would like it to be something that can take a punch and stand up to it (or if I need to drill a hole it won't chip and break off).

 

[donsrods]

If you are going to sandblast the frame clean and prep it, you can use regular body filler, like Rage and sand it out smooth. That is what I have used on a lot of frames and if you get the rust gone it will not bubble or come out. My 82 year old model a frame has a skim coat on the whole thing and most of it has been in there for over 20 years.

The metal fillers you are thinking about will not give you any better bleed through, and they have a real downside, they are a b**** to sand smooth. It is like sanding iron. All Metal is one, and we used another one, Tiger Drylac EPO when we did my Son's frame. The only reason we used that one instead of Rage is that the frame was going to be powdercoated and the 400 degree temps will destroy regular body filler. I can tell you my Son spent a lot of time trying to sand that stuff smooth, and used up a lot of sand paper.

Sandblast the frame, then use something like Ospho to kill any deep seated rust, and then skim it with filler and you will be fine.

Don

Here is mine, skimmed with Rage.

 

[pistolpete]

Don, Thanks yet again. After doing a bit more reading I have came to the same conclusion. I was still on the fence about blasting it, but I think this will make that decision for me. I'll need to look a little more at the Ospho stuff you mentioned, I have some other rust converter stuff but can't recall the name of it right now... I might be getting slightly ahead of myself, but the mind wanders at times.

 

[donsrods]

Ospho is a rust converter and is available everywhere, hardware stores, Home Depot, etc. A quart is about $ 8 and what I do is keep it from drying on the surface. I use a 3 M scotchbrite pad and scrub the part, then wipe off the surface with a clean cloth. After drying for a day it is ready to prime, paint, or bondo.

The sandblasting is optional. I actually used a disc grinder the last time I did my frame with some 80 grit on it and it got it clean enough that way. The Ospho gets down in the pits and kills the rust so it won't come back to haunt you.

Don

 

[sneakysnake]

Another great product for smoothing pits and light imperfections. Its just like bondo but very creamy and spreadable.

 

[sneakysnake]

My frame.

 

[klink]

West System epoxy would work too. I have a sailboat with a cast iron keel that we have to repair from time to time. 15 years ago I faired the entire thing with epoxy and it has held up really well and this thing is in the water 7 months out of the year. I use 80 grit to clean it up then coat it. While the epoxy is still wet I use a stainless wire brush on the area and any loose stuff that got missed as well as the surface rust that attacks it instantly gets suspended in the epoxy. It sands really well and holds up, until I hit a rock...

 

[sgtpontiac]

Where the heck do you take that boat....???

West System epoxy would work too. I have a sailboat with a cast iron keel that we have to repair from time to time. 15 years ago I faired the entire thing with epoxy and it has held up really well and this thing is in the water 7 months out of the year. I use 80 grit to clean it up then coat it. While the epoxy is still wet I use a stainless wire brush on the area and any loose stuff that got missed as well as the surface rust that attacks it instantly gets suspended in the epoxy. It sands really well and holds up, until I hit a rock...

not supposed to hit the rocks....

 

[klink]

not supposed to hit the rocks....

West end of Lake Erie... 6 foot draft 15 feet of water. The islands have a lot of rocks too, there's even a spot on the chart that says "rock". It's easy to find if you're not paying attention, impossible to find if you want to show it to someone.

 

[sgtpontiac]

Ok....yeah, makes sense....

West end of Lake Erie... 6 foot draft 15 feet of water. The islands have a lot of rocks too, there's even a spot on the chart that says "rock". It's easy to find if you're not paying attention, impossible to find if you want to show it to someone.

Water levels are low anyway...Lake St. Clair and Huron are up some but still way below 5 years ago.....know what you mean....

 

[steve14191]

metal

if you are gonna paint the frame which i'm going on a wim and saying yeah then a good sandable primer will fill light pits and imperfections in the frame or even a POR-15 will fill they are a high build product clean with a tab wheel or wire wheel and wipe id down with grease and wax remover or or a thinner or choice or a light glaze for the bad spots the only bad thing about POR-15 it that it is a base coat and will need painted over top if used UV rays will destroy the product and will not do it job!!!! good luck from a bodyman. ps. fillers like all-metal are a pain and are normally resin and pieces off alum. not steel.. hope this helps!

 

[madbalrog]

motr/trany

If you are going to sandblast the frame clean and prep it, you can use regular body filler, like Rage and sand it out smooth. That is what I have used on a lot of frames and if you get the rust gone it will not bubble or come out. My 82 year old model a frame has a skim coat on the whole thing and most of it has been in there for over 20 years.

The metal fillers you are thinking about will not give you any better bleed through, and they have a real downside, they are a b**** to sand smooth. It is like sanding iron. All Metal is one, and we used another one, Tiger Drylac EPO when we did my Son's frame. The only reason we used that one instead of Rage is that the frame was going to be powdercoated and the 400 degree temps will destroy regular body filler. I can tell you my Son spent a lot of time trying to sand that stuff smooth, and used up a lot of sand paper.

Sandblast the frame, then use something like Ospho to kill any deep seated rust, and then skim it with filler and you will be fine.

Don

Here is mine, skimmed with Rage.

Don, what motor /tranny set up did you run on this frame ? I'm boxing a '29 Model A frame and running a '77 - 302/C6 combo with the '77 1/2 ton rear end and original Model A rear spring setup,

 

[donsrods]

Don, what motor /tranny set up did you run on this frame ? I'm boxing a '29 Model A frame and running a '77 - 302/C6 combo with the '77 1/2 ton rear end and original Model A rear spring setup,

I'm using pretty much exactly what you are using, sbf, but mine is running a 3 speed stick behind it. But for all practical purposes the mounts would be the same.

Don