Mini Muscle Car

[bob w]

Leg better.

Finished the welding and grinding on the transition piece. Cleaned up the edges and cut gauge holes in the aluminum fascia. Found a small piece of copper, trimmed it a bit and cut gauge holes in it too. A little paint and aluminum/copper polish and that's it. On to the next sub project.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

That's a serious chunk 'o steering column, Bob. [cl
.

 

[smallfoot]

Man...I don't mean to start sumpin but I hope you never get loose from your harness. Looks like a vertical guillotine...

 

[bob w]

That's a serious chunk 'o steering column, Bob. [cl
.

There was nothing up above that was strong enough to hang the steering column from.

smalls, The family jewels are quite away back from the column. In the event of a mishap, I can always sing soprano in the UDS men's chorus.

Not a drag car. Just a fun streeter with maybe a squirt or two down the eighth mile strip. Should only be around 400 HP.

 

[Torchie]

[cl
Glad the leg is better bob.
[P [P[P [P
Torchie

 

[bob w]

More tin. The floor behind the seats is fabbed. Just tacked. The rear bulkhead and package tray are original construction, plywood with aluminum attached. Will probably keep it. The gap between the bulkhead and the raised floor piece needs to be sealed off. Will make a piece to fit. On to...some other sub project.

 

[zzrodder]

Looking good Bob! Unrelated to your present fab work, but I was wondering what size tubing you use for your roll cages in your builds? I'm going to build one for my Packard but I'm not familiar with sizes or gauge of the tubes. Do you do your own bending or farm it out?
Thanks,
Charlie

 

[Torchie]

Looks Great, bob. [cl
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[05snopro440]

Looks great, Bob! I can't wait to see this little gal finished!

 

[bob w]

NHRA requirements: Roll bar-1 3/4", .118" wall mild steel tubing or 1 3/4" .083" wall 4130 chrome moly tubing. Mild steel can be TIG or MIG welded. Moly must be TIG welded.
Good for 11.50 to 11.00 et's.

Roll cage- 1 5/8", .118" wall mild steel tubing. 1 5/8", .083" wall 4130. Some support tubes can be smaller. Good for 10.99 to 10.00.

The problem is, .120" wall mild steel tubing can run under .118" wall and be within manufacturer's spec. Most people buy .134" wall.

I don't have a TIG welder nor a lot of money so I stick with mild steel. I use 1 1/4" steel pipe (not water pipe), which measures 1.660" in diameter and well over .118" wall. It is readily available and costs less. NHRA does not require DOM tubing, which is really expensive.

Most circle track guys use the 1 1/4" steel pipe and they crash all the time. I borrowed a JD2 tubing bender 20 years ago and the guy doesn't mind me keeping it here. Thank you, Barry. I did have to buy a die set for the 1 1/4" steel pipe, which was over $300.

If you are going to race the Packard, and I hope you do, get a rule book for ten bucks so you can build the roll bar/cage to requirements and you won't have any problems with tech. inspection.

I have noted though, at the nostalgia races I participate in, the tech. inspection is very lenient. The focus is on Helmet and seat belt/harness. They are dated. They also hate antifreeze.

 

[zzrodder]

Thanks Bob, you are a veritable fountain of information! I don't know how serious I'll be about hitting the track (haven't been down the 1/4 since 1978!) but it would be nice to have the option, may get brave in my old age....

 

[Old Iron]

[P[P[P

 

[bob w]

On to the exhaust system. Unfortunately, the G body headers I bought cheap won't fit. The block huggers I had on the Renault will be returning to the engine bay. They really don't add any ponies over good stock manifolds, but I have them. Since the engine is 10" forward of its former resting place, and there is different front suspension under it, the previous exhaust system would not work. I was able to cut it up, add half a U-bend and make it all work.

No lift here so it was up and down on the floor several times. The third pic shows the tail pipe which used to turn in under the car now masquerading as a Bellflower tip. It will be shortened and turned out a bit. When the tail pipe ended under the car the noise was unbearable even for a half deaf guy like me.

One more side to go. Plus welding her all up.

 

[kenny c]

L[clooks great.

 

[DozerII]

If you don't turn them out you won't have to do burnouts to heat the tires. [P[P

 

[Old Iron]

Turn them out or run the risk of getting your hind end ate out at a car show for dusting out the painted cars. Don't ask how I know
Or not

 

[bob w]

Sure don't want to kick up any dust on the pretty cars. Here's the exhaust outlet. I might angle slice the end.

A short day's work. The kneeometer went off and I had to quit. Only got 5 pieces tacked on the driver's side. Had to leave clearance for the axle movement, miss the leaf spring and leave space for the steering shaft. Ended up making a bunch of little pieces out of a few longer pieces.

 

[soltz]

Turn them out or run the risk of getting your hind end ate out at a car show for dusting out the painted cars. Don't ask how I know
Or not

I try to be nice but, he parked next to me

 

[soltz]

Nice fitting work [
{{[P}}

 

[Torchie]

Looks good bob!!!
Take it easy on the knee.
Torchie