My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

[Couper]

Some pic's and a question

Some pics of where I'm at. I'm bugging cause I have to pull it apart now to get the frame back on the rack to weld in the cross members. Actually I have 2 questions...

1) The 6 degree caster setting. Where is the best location to take that measurement. The x-member that the spring clamps to or the king pins? I bought one of those digital angle finders.....it's pretty cool.

2) My 4 link set up came with rear tube brackets and frame brackets with 3" cutouts for the 3" square tubing that's going to weld up to the frame kick ups. The brackets have the same distance spacing on the tube mountng holes so the tubes will be parallel. Should they be angled up, down or parallel to the ground?

Thanks

 

[MercuryMac]

I try to measure mine at the kingpin, or ball joints.
I like mock-ups.

 

[zzrodder]

I think you would want to have the link bars close to level at ride height, so that would mean you have to make an educated guess how much the coil overs will be compressed under load.
The truck is looking good [cl

 

[Couper]

Thanks Merc

 

[Couper]

Perfect ZZ.....

Thank you.

 

[Couper]

Tacking in the rear x-members and the rear framing that will take the 4 link tabs today. Tomorrow I'll tack in the front x-member to obtain the 7 - 8 degree required caster....... Merc.

That Digital Angle finder I bought is cool....everything at zero to 1 degree.

 

[Old Iron]

Nice work
[P[P[P

 

[Couper]

Question....

Thanks Old Iron!

Have another question. I have my cross member tacked in at 7 degrees. I'm going to mount my spring and axle up with the U-bolts. Should my final check of the caster be performed with the front end under load? Think it'll make a difference if it isn't?. Since the ceilings are low in my shop there's not enough headroom to get my cab on the rack and the motor would be a chore.

I could ratchet strap the spring into load location if you think that might be helpful. Jerry at Pete & Jake's said to take the measurement at the cross member but am wondering if all 7 degrees at the member is going to get transfered to the axle / king pins.

Thanks!

 

[Old Iron]

If the vehicle is going to be lower in the front then the back, the camber will have to be set at ride height.

 

[Couper]

That's a bit of a brain buster for me. The rear tires are 29", front's are 26".
My cab frame rails are going to be level at about 5.5", the front angle up at about 5.5 degrees to give me enough spring travel with out a c notch.

I'm not sure if this means higher in the back or not. Would center of wheels be the dictator of higher in the back even though my cab rails are level?

I have a headache now! LOL

 

[Couper]

Thinking bout this a little further..... If it turns out my welded x member doesn't give me the 7 degrees I need can't a further adjustment be made push the axle out with the hair pin adjustments? Or possibly a thin milled "wedge" between the x member & the spring?

 

[bob w]

If you end up with 6 or 8 degrees it will be okay. Yes, there's adjustment in the hair pins. A wedge will work too. I usually run 5 degrees so there's a variety of opinions on how much caster is necessary.

 

[Couper]

Thanks Bob & OI...looks like I'll have a little wiggle room.

 

[Couper]

Double Checking on this....

If ya haven't already planned on it , the frame kick-ups need some sort of gussets to keep it from being springy in the orange circle area.
2x2x14ga would be plenty heavy.

We talked about this a couple weeks ago and wanted to make sure.... I'd like to get these in in the morning. The bed rails and the coil over x member gusset to eliminate any bounce.

Is that drawing about the length I'll need? 12 -14" or so to the back?
And could I do without the smaller one to the front? I may not have the room.

Also don't forget that I'm internal gussetted on this joint as well.

Thanks

 

[MercuryMac]

Coup, I agree with everything that Bob said about attaining your caster angles.
Also, I believe that the gusset that you drew in the picture will strengthen the back end frame more than enough.
Keep on tinkering.

 

[DozerII]

Looking good, [P[P

 

[Old Iron]

You can do without the one in the front of the kickup. The one in the back can be a bit smaller but not so much it ends up above the top of the bottom rail.
I do remember the internal gussets because that's the way I do my frames.
I thought you were going with the spider web type gussets.

 

[Couper]

Thanks OI & Merc.

The spider just looks too light to me and maybe not large enough. I'm going to go with exactly how you drew it.

Thanks for getting back to me right away....going to hit it now.

Have a great day.

 

[Couper]

Got the gussets in to eliminate any bounce....thank you OI.

And got the fat tired rear end up on the rack. Next stop 4 link tabs & tubes.

Artsy shot thru the cab window.

 

[Burgerman]

Look'n good Couper