My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

[Couper]

Thanks Smalls, Bamamav and ZZ.... I've used that construction glue on some block caps and the block will break before the glue joint. I talked to a local glass guy and he says he can do it.

I have the template and all tracks and hardware in and it rolls pretty nice, couple tight spots....I'm gona hit the side edges with the belt sander.

 

[gene49]

Hey Gene, I think I will do that. I'll glue it in and then remove the screws after it's set and dry. BTW, I talked to Charlie / Old Stuff...he's doing well and involved in building a new home. He says hello.

I still miss that site and many of the guys that were there. Too bad the last few years was so sparse with replies, and then have it disappear.

 

[Couper]

I still miss that site and many of the guys that were there. Too bad the last few years was so sparse with replies, and then have it disappear.

I hear ya.... I was on a fiberglass site for years that had such an awesome talented bunch of guys on it and they shut it down. I still miss those guys.

 

[Couper]

Emergency Door Latch Pull from Outside

Hey Guys... What have you guys who shaved the door handles and using electric actuators for opening from the outside done for an emergency open?
I don't want to get locked out should I ever have a dead battery.

There will be handles to open from the inside. If you remember I have bear claws and the lever pulls or pushed down to open. I've seen a bicycle brake type cable thru the jamb and thru the fire wall with a lever, but haven't seen any better idea's. Any thoughts from the tinkering think tank?

 

[smallfoot]

I've got bear claws but not electric. What about a small straight rod fed up thru the B pillar with something simple lever wise to trip the latch, The rod could extend just below floor level and be bent into a ring

 

[Couper]

I've got bear claws but not electric. What about a small straight rod fed up thru the B pillar with something simple lever wise to trip the latch, The rod could extend just below floor level and be bent into a ring

You lost me smalls.....tell me more. The post is on the B Pillar no?

 

[smallfoot]

Sorry, my simple mind sees it. If you have electric controllers on those latches,, I don't know if that would interfere with what I'm thinking or not. Well, hell, I just thought of something. It won't work with normally located latches. I was mentally trying to establish a way with mine. And mine ain't normal. If you notice on my 31 the handles that operate the latches are on the back of the cab. My latches, in order to pull the trick, are mounted differently on the door and pillar. My movable side of the latch is on the pillar, where your movable parts are on the door. Sorry! I screwed up thinking again...

 

[gene49]

The latch is inside of the door. Any emergency cable or rod would have to be accessible from the bottom of the closed door.

A very flexible cable might be ran from the latch through the hinged part of the door and into that door post, but I sure wouldn't want to trust that after the door has flexed it a million times by simply opening and closing the door.

How often do you expect to have a dead battery? I would think an accessible remote battery jumper post would eliminate the dead battery issue.

 

[smallfoot]

Couple of pix on my backassards latches. I could work the idea on this probably.

 

[Couper]

Couple of pix on my backassards latches. I could work the idea on this probably.

Yeah buddy that would work well with your set-up... but thanks for thinking about it

 

[Couper]

The latch is inside of the door. Any emergency cable or rod would have to be accessible from the bottom of the closed door.

A very flexible cable might be ran from the latch through the hinged part of the door and into that door post, but I sure wouldn't want to trust that after the door has flexed it a million times by simply opening and closing the door.

How often do you expect to have a dead battery? I would think an accessible remote battery jumper post would eliminate the dead battery issue.

Your right Gene....I'm over thinking again [dr I'll let it be. Thanks pal

 

[Couper]

Windshield templates are done with a 1/8 - 3/16 gap around the pocket. I am going to use the rubber strip versus silicone in the center gap, I think the strip is more fitting for the look.

Both door templates are done as well....roll up and down with all the tracking in.

Feel like I've made some progress Going to trace them on masking paper as they requested and send them to Bob's Classic Glass in Oregon. The guy was very patient and educational the both times I called.

 

[Couper]

Final Coat of primer on the Nose and I've decided on this "T" moulding for around my windshield glass as a filler.

 

[bob w]

The molding looks just right.

 

[Couper]

Well then it's a sure go! Thanks Bob

 

[dutch]

yes, very nice

 

[zzrodder]

[cl[cl[P

 

[Old Iron]

[P[P

 

[smallfoot]

That'll work!

 

[Couper]

Thanks fella's! So I'm working on modifying some inside inner door mechanisms to open my bear claws from the inside. So I'm trying to find some bolts and this mechanism takes M5 x .80 bolts??? What the flip? I basically ran the tap thru with my fingers. How can this be? I have a Japanese 41 Dodge? LOL