My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL
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Yah Bud.....sucks. I didn't pay to have it rebuilt, I bought it in supposedly rebuilt condition but was far from done right. Looking back I suppose the right thing woulda been to open it up but buying from a motor shop I thought I was safe and wouldn't have know good from bad unless it was a crack or something very obvious. I'll be looking into the pump gas.....from the corner gas station that is
Not sure if that is what we will settle on but will keep you posted.
Old Iron
Well-known member
I just remembered something, isn't the heads on that engine aluminum? If so it most likely can handle the 11:1
The cast iron headed engines cannot run 91 pump gas at 11:1
The cast iron headed engines cannot run 91 pump gas at 11:1
Yes.... Hot Heads Aluminum
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
E85
??
Old Iron
Well-known member
E85 requires a new carb metered for the alcohol
My 392 is 10:1 with iron heads. At 30 degrees of timing I run 87 octane at 36 degrees I run 91
My 392 is 10:1 with iron heads. At 30 degrees of timing I run 87 octane at 36 degrees I run 91
I see.... that stuff is all greek to me!
gene49
Well-known member
The total timing on a Mopar is deemed to provide the best performance at 36 degrees total advance. If the motor pings at that 36 degrees of total advance, you either add higher octane fuel, or you reduce the total timing until the pinging quits. Reducing the timing generally reduces the maximum performance.
To get those total ignition timing degrees of advance, you start with the degrees of advance the distributor is set at, then add the number of degrees the distributor mechanical advance adds (which is determined by the weights in the distributor), and then add any advance and vacuum advance might add (by pulling the plate inside of the distributor). Generally, the number of degrees of mechanical advance, and the number of degrees of vacuum advance are not adjustable, but they may be delayed or the vacuum can be eliminated (a completely different story). That means the difference in the total timing is usually set by the degrees of the distributor rotation in the block.
His 392 Hemi has 10 to 1 compression and the motor has iron heads. Generally, aluminum heads run cooler in the combustion chamber, so you can get away with more total timing on lower octane fuel.
87 Octane is the level of the cheapest pump gas and his motor does not ping on the 87 octane if the total timing is set at 30 degrees instead of at 36 degrees. He is giving up a bit of top performance, but can buy his gas at any gas station across the country.
91 Octane is the rating of most premium gas available at most gas stations. Some gas stations do not carry 91 octane gas, if they do, its generally 30 to 50 cents per gallon higher priced. His motor does not ping on 91 Octane gas with the total timing set at 36 degrees advanced. He is not giving up any power at that level.
If the "pump gas" the motor builder says the motor will run on is 93 octane, that means the motor will run without pinging on that 93 Octane at 36 degrees total advance. Generally 93 Octane is not available at most gas stations, it is often labeled as racing fuel and carries a much higher cost per gallon, when you do find it. You may be able to reduce the timing enough to get rid of the pinging if you run 91 octane gas, but at how much power reduction? There will probably not be any way you could run the 87 octane gas without some pinging going on, but every motor is different.
Good info Gene.... I'm gona have to read that a few more times to grasp it! Thanks for the explanation.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Excellent explanation on the topic.
Thanks Gene
Thanks Gene
gene49
Well-known member
Thanks.
I've spend a lot of years translating automotive and heavy machine operation functions to people without an understanding of how those functions work.
I often get accused of writing books because most of those translations get wordy. Blame that 12 grade writing comprehension class teacher. She told me I should write stuff as though the people reading it had no idea what I was saying. I've been doing it ever sense.
It really helped when we had to explain to the factory president why a machine he wanted to have running was down.
I've spend a lot of years translating automotive and heavy machine operation functions to people without an understanding of how those functions work.
I often get accused of writing books because most of those translations get wordy. Blame that 12 grade writing comprehension class teacher. She told me I should write stuff as though the people reading it had no idea what I was saying. I've been doing it ever sense.
It really helped when we had to explain to the factory president why a machine he wanted to have running was down.
Old Iron
Well-known member
gene49
Well-known member
Yea, I'll try to keep the stories short stories.
I bet you can't! LOL!Yea, I'll try to keep the stories short stories.
Keep typing Gene, I need the edumacation!
gene49
Well-known member
Is that a challenge???? LOL!
I'm smart enough not to accept that challenge. I know me. LOL!
Hey Fella's .....hope everyone is well. Just wanted to check in....still kicking hard here. Working hard prepping for the new crapper. I didn't think I still had it in me but I feel great working like my old self....but much slower LOL, Haven't been on the truck in a few weeks now. The HEMI is in the shop getting a full work over. 9k.... wasn't ready for that but it is what it is. Sided the privacy wall, opened up the other wall for the new stairs, sided that side and half way thru building the stairs. Composite decking material is on order as is the rest of the siding I need. Moving along
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Hi Fella's, Happy New Year coming up. Stay home....and if you plan on going out and having a drink please hop a ride. I myself stay home on New Years.
Looks like my head is starting to crank up. The motor is supposed to hit the Dyno in a couple weeks. Keep you posted on that. Not sure if I posted any pics but will include a couple here. I'm really looking forward to getting moving on this again, the house / yard stuff took me away and I just could not get my head back in the game. Every time I thought about it I got a pain in my belly. Arrg
I have to get the motor loosely assembled in place so I can redo the brake lines. Before I do that I'm going to send the rear out and have it gone over, resealed ect. I'd hate to paint everything, re-install it and end up with an issue.
Once the motor is in I have to decide how to go from the passenger side front corner to the driver side with the brake like. One of you guys didn't like the fact that the brake line was just in the "air" so I'm gona weld in a "U" channel from frame rail to frame rail.
The trans a 700R4 was rebuilt with an upgraded valve body and I think clutches ect......I have a build sheet. She's been sitting for 3 or so years so I'm gona have that gone over as well... I don't know if seals shrink or get flat spots but again, I don't want to have to take it back out one in. Just a little peace of mind. I'm hoping I can get back in touch with the guy that built it.
Drill and tap any brake line hold downs, channel for that front line, complete a couple welds on the underside and paint her up. Do you guys use anything like a seal sealer that I can finger on any welds that are not smooth? Just in very visible places. Something that won't crack and come off.....
I did get my valve covers polished to match the air cleaner and they look nice.... speaking of air cleaner my engine builder told me the carbs (going to use the 2x4 manifold) will be mounted sideways. I didn't know that was a thing.
Ok keep you posted....stay safe.
Looks like my head is starting to crank up. The motor is supposed to hit the Dyno in a couple weeks. Keep you posted on that. Not sure if I posted any pics but will include a couple here. I'm really looking forward to getting moving on this again, the house / yard stuff took me away and I just could not get my head back in the game. Every time I thought about it I got a pain in my belly. Arrg
I have to get the motor loosely assembled in place so I can redo the brake lines. Before I do that I'm going to send the rear out and have it gone over, resealed ect. I'd hate to paint everything, re-install it and end up with an issue.
Once the motor is in I have to decide how to go from the passenger side front corner to the driver side with the brake like. One of you guys didn't like the fact that the brake line was just in the "air" so I'm gona weld in a "U" channel from frame rail to frame rail.
The trans a 700R4 was rebuilt with an upgraded valve body and I think clutches ect......I have a build sheet. She's been sitting for 3 or so years so I'm gona have that gone over as well... I don't know if seals shrink or get flat spots but again, I don't want to have to take it back out one in. Just a little peace of mind. I'm hoping I can get back in touch with the guy that built it.
Drill and tap any brake line hold downs, channel for that front line, complete a couple welds on the underside and paint her up. Do you guys use anything like a seal sealer that I can finger on any welds that are not smooth? Just in very visible places. Something that won't crack and come off.....
I did get my valve covers polished to match the air cleaner and they look nice.... speaking of air cleaner my engine builder told me the carbs (going to use the 2x4 manifold) will be mounted sideways. I didn't know that was a thing.
Ok keep you posted....stay safe.
