New project, what is it??

[burnin#2]

thanks for the welding compliments, ive never taken formal training, but i grew up on a farm and my dad taught me, and he also made me burn countless pounds of rod building fence sections out of drill stem, so i got lots of practice, *tip* if your father teaches you how to weld, dont get better than him, he will make you weld EVERYTHING!! [[

sorry for the fuzzy pic but here is the front of my cab, there was a tag that read "full vision all steel body by budd" and a sequence of five ledgeble numbers crudely stamped into the RH side of the firewall

i also found this pic of a 1927 dodge that is very close.......but not a smokin cigar yet...[S

 

[burnin#2]

oh and as much as i would love to use a 2 stroke diesel.... (google ****ed off pete) ill be running a 5.9l cummins with a 5 speed[cl[ddd

 

[burnin#2]

OOPS... theres that filter..... google pi$$ed off pete. that is one killer rig... two superchargers.... a v12! AND straight pipes.. allllllll twelve of em!
whoot whoot[P[cl[cl

 

[fj holden]

mid 20,s chev firewall and i rekon bud might be able tell you the rest

 

[bob w]

Here's the '27 Chrysler I built my tub out of. It had a brass Budd emblem low on the cowl sides. Same stamping in the firewall as yours. Definitely has similarities to your cab.

 

[burnin#2]

well 27 or 28 dodge or chrysler seems to be about as close as i can identify.... regardless of that it will get done!!
here is a few more pics for your consideration folks!
im thinkin that my frame is about done save for finishing a bit on the front end suspension and the complete rear suspension.
lots of welding rods and a pile of grinding disks later......

 

[burnin#2]

every thing was rolling along way too smoothly lastnight.... then i decided to rest the cab back on the frame to check fitment... then... dammit! i didnt allow for the added thickness of the fishplating on the sides of my Z in the frame and now the cab just barely fits over the frame rails.... so here is to hoping that a bit more grinding to the sides of the frame and the inside of the cab rails will get it to fit down where it should be..

 

[burnin#2]

so i got a great score over the weekend...... dana 80 rear with discs, 6 tires and rims 19.5", 2 spare front steer tires, driveshaft (will need modification) front disk brake assy's, and a NV4500 5 speed tranny with...get this a PTO and hyd pump.

heres the tranny with hyd pump, i wanted all along to be able to go back out to the farm and show my dad how to run the log splitter with my rat rod [cl and he told me why dont you put a hyd lift on the box.... so that just may happen too

 

[Johnson]

This is shaping up to be pretty interesting. I`m going to keep my eye on this one.

-Johnson

 

[sneakysnake]

A 26-27 Nash is as close as I can find that has that middle door hinge in the upper body bead but the cowl doesnt quite look right.

 

[burnin#2]

yea its a wierd one.... but never thought of the old nash's.... but still different, at the cowl my cab gets narrower foward, making a vertical body line. would/could it have been perhaps a ambulance or herse package, or something to that affect that would make it slightly different. i really do think its a late 20's dodge.

and with that tranny.. i never want to worry about it, and i do plan on towing a trailer from time to time. but i got the NV4500, 5 speed with OD, the only issues ive heard are with the 5 gear walking off the shaft in the tailhousing. but that i believe is caused by towing a load in OD, so if im careful it should be fine

 

[Johnson]

On the 5th gear nut issue, there is a fix for it. Check this out: Link

These guys know what they are doing, I`ve been on that board for awhile. I think it is just normal wear that causes it to back off. You still are`nt supposed to tow in 5th gear with it though

Anyway.... Keep up the good work,
Johnson

 

[burnin#2]

yea thanks jhonson, i saw trucks on spike's power block and they did the just weld the nut to the shaft fix on one of their projects. so ill prolly just do the same thing [[cl
picked up the heim joints yesterday for my rear suspension [cl
you guys think 3/4x3/4 joints would be strong enough for a 1.5 ton truck?
i think so

 

[ratdog]

3/4" heims are strong enough for a high horsepower big block race car,would imagine they be ok. But you could always get the big 1 1/4" ones they use on the rock buggies and stuff, with towing etc might be good to have a bit of overkill.

 

[burnin#2]

huh.. i was thinkin 3/4 was a little overkill but i already bought them, the guy said they commonly sell the 1/2" joints for guys racing, maby not big blocks but their a common seller.... and they were enough money too at just over $400 for all eight and the weld in pipe bungs to go with....
also on my to do list is electric wipers, needed to pass inspection. my cab has just one of those had crank levers on the top of the windshield frame. i have some ideas using old bobcat wiper motor parts (i work in the rental dept but was wondering if anyone tackled an electric conversion on a old hand crank setup with success

 

[ratdog]

My brother in law is into dragracing and builds that stuff on the side, I was asking him about that for my model A wishbones and rear axle.He told me for low power small block cars you use 5/8" heims and for big block the 3/4" ones. Thats what all the car builders go by. 1/2 " is way too small . The front split wishbone kits for model a 's are 5/8" ,and there is not that much load on that. I got 3/4" ones for mine, from a racing store on ebay, 2 heims and two weld in bungs for $ 35 . They are the high strength ones. $ 400 seems pretty steep for eight.

 

[burnin#2]

well i didnt get them online... i guess thats the price you pay for convience, they were in stock..... they do seem to be good quality.... they were like about 25 bucks each for the joint and the same for the weld in bung....
how thick should the tubing wall be for something like this, the steel store is next on my list.

 

[Tim...Ok]

Those bungs should be made to fit DOM tubing, so keep that in mind when ya go shopping..regular structural tubing from the steel supply is different size OD and ID..not that ya can't use it, but the bungs won't fit..

I had some heavy wall 1.25" tubing, so I made bungs to fit mine on the lathe at work..Every once in a while, working in a machine shop has it's benefits..LOL I'm working on my front axle, I used 3/4" heims on the rear connection and (4) 5/8" joints for the front..my rear end will be all 3/4" with ladder bars

 

[ratdog]

Yes ,Tim is right, the bungs are sold for certain diameter and wall thickness of DOM tubing, say 1 1/2 " tube with 1/8" wall, so the bungs would be 1 1/4" where they go in the tubing. The place I got mine actually turned them down to fit my model a radius arms free of charge. anyways I would go with 3/16 or 1/4 " wall ,better to strong then too weak.

 

[goose-em]

Whatever it is it is going to be fun to watch.