New project, what is it??

[burnin#2]

well i get me some 1/4" wall DOM tubing for my link bars... and hey its been a fun build too

so i decided to slide a couple wheels on the ole dana 80 and slide it home under the frame.... and i wanted the darn thing to lay frame and this is where my axle tube will go to lay frame....

so to achieve this whole layin frame thing i guess i need to make a little bit of a notch in the frame... [ [
and i just had to throw the axle under cuz my project is actually starting to look like some thing [cl

 

[SugarRay8]

Looking great! [dr[cl[cl

 

[burnin#2]

so progress has been a bit slow...
but i got my step notches cut out and welded in place with the frame cut out and sitting on the ground.
started on setting up my rear four link and am running into problems.... i think.... so i decided to go parallel lower links and got the tabs all ready to be tacked in. my problem lies in the upper links... i just simply cant find the room to put my top links together on the diff, its a cast iron housing ( i think) dana 80 so i cant weld tabs to it and i dont really want to put a big brace over the top of the pumpkin, so why i ask you, can i not put the upper links together on the frame crossmember and apart on the outter ends of the diff??? this would make my life soo much easier.
sorry no pics.... camera was dead

 

[Johnson]

Don`t assume I`m right, but I believe the four-link is done in that arrangement simply because it is convenient (and maybe just a tad stronger???). In theory I don`t see a problem with triangulating it the other way, would serve the same purpose as long as it doesn`t bind.

-Johnson

 

[rainman]

To my knowledge there's nothing wrong with doing it that way. The only thing I can think of that it MIGHT have a negative effect on is traction. But that's just a thought!!!

 

[EnglishBob]

Looks like parts of it could be a Desoto.

 

[izzy]

four link

i used a three link on mine and out of .250 flat stock used the top bolt in the pig with square tubbing to make it adjustable with no problem with traction it hooks and goes, but to each his own. i do love that old iron wish i could find a cab and a half to build.[dr

 

[Johnson]

To my knowledge there's nothing wrong with doing it that way. The only thing I can think of that it MIGHT have a negative effect on is traction. But that's just a thought!!!

I don`t see why it would have any effect on traction. The outer links should provide the traction(I think....). Come to think of it, I have seen it done the way you want on a big lifted 4x4, and they need a lot more travel than you without binding.

 

[burnin#2]

thanks for the input i was really fretting about it due to the fact that i have never really personally seen it set up like that, but i looked at it at one angle and then at a different angle and i couldnt see why it wouldnt work the same. but i respect your guys input alot, and believe we have a very solid knowledge base here that i trust
so last night i got all the tabs cut out for the top links to go together on the crossmember and apart at the diff, and i feel alot better about welding it solid now

and that desoto does have the same curvature at the top part of the curvature of the a pillar.... but it looks like its stamped into the whole pillar, mine looks to be more of an afterthought.....

and hey i made it into a cab and a half [ i wouldnt fit at 6'3" in the cab as i found it

should have some pics of my rear links in a couple days [

 

[burnin#2]

did a little bit of mock up lastnight, got most of the 4 link tabs tacked in at the rear, and threw together temporary links so i can visualise everything. i placed all the links where i thought they would best work out in my application...... and in my opinion i think it will work.... now for your visual pleasure and consideration....... please let me know what you think.... this is the first 4 link ive set up...

 

[skull]

4-link

looks good. thats basically the set-up and angles the 64-72 chevelles have from the factory. are you gonna run a rear sway-bar or panhard bar?

l like the C-notch to clear the axle travel.

when all boxed in, that style C-notch acccording to the book l read on how to C-notch a frame is 10 times stronger than doing a 3 piece notch. the way you are doing youre's is the way l did mine and l am really happy with the notch on my truck.

what shocks are you planning on running?

Later

 

[jfg455]

technically you wouldn't need a pan hard rod with a triangulated 4 link but this one my not have enough angle on the top rods to work. wight have to give it a shake and see if you get any side to side movement out of it. [P

 

[burnin#2]

thanks folks i know the angle of the top links is a little on the light side but i dont really know if i can change it with what i got goin on..... so lets make this one experimental and see how it runs on the road.
im just gonna run standard nitrogen filled tube shocks on the rear, i have two i got for free that are brand new, were gonna throw them out where i work so i snagged them up, ill see if they work, from a bigger truck maby 3 ton?? in the front i want to use the lever shocks that came with the chassis i started with ('52 chev 2 ton) in the front.

and i dont think one can use a panhard bar with any triangulation in a four link because the panhard bar will force the axle to move in a very slight arc and i think that will fight with the top links.... unless i use a watts link... which i just dont want to run....
i dont plan on drifting or doing crazy G's around a corner every day so i hope the triangulation will be sufficient

 

[burnin#2]

did a bit of figgurin while lookin at the rear suspension last nite, cut a tube to fit in my lower link to get a visual and some angles. the top links at ride hight are level and the lower links are 8 degrees down to the rear..... thoughts or considerations??
i really think its going to work nicely....... but..... let me know what youall think

 

[jfg455]

Ideally you want the lower links flat or possibly 2-3* up (front higher). the top links you will want to have about 8-10* down at ride hieght. This helps plant the tire on acceleration. if the lowers are down in the front then when the rear squats under acceleration then the angle exagerates causing axle wrap eg; wheel hop. Hope this helps. [P

 

[rainman]

I'm sure what jfg is refering to is at estimated ride height!! But those are good number estimates.

 

[burnin#2]

hmmm.... would there be any substantially ill affects of having the rear bars 8* down at the rear, with the tops level?? i really dont have much room to play. [S

 

[SugarRay8]

Ideally you want the lower links flat or possibly 2-3* up (front higher). the top links you will want to have about 8-10* down at ride hieght. This helps plant the tire on acceleration. if the lowers are down in the front then when the rear squats under acceleration then the angle exagerates causing axle wrap eg; wheel hop. Hope this helps. [P

Burnin#2 - Good thing you’re asking before you get it all made, I wasn’t that smart. This would have been good info for my build.

 

[jfg455]

hmmm.... would there be any substantially ill affects of having the rear bars 8* down at the rear, with the tops level?? i really dont have much room to play. [S

that would be better than the other way around. at least that way when it squats under power the lower arms are moving towards level. Thise were just ball park figures I threw out. Look at a chevelle rear or monte carlo rear or a mustang rear with 4 links and you will see what I mean. Or even a drag car 4 link.

 

[burnin#2]

well ball park is better than no park!! there are just so many opinions and fields of thought that go into a four link setup... but i think ill run it as is. jsut as long as there is no crazy wheel hop issues if i try to launch once in a blue moon. and i want it to be streetable as this will be my daily driver and i hope to do long distances in comfort so i would like a nice ride on the road too.

next up is air bags, where is a good place to get a pair? i priced out firestone replacement bags from a helper kit locally, the price seems to be around the $160 mark.... more than i want to spend but..... i havnt looked that hard yet.