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if the center plate was flipped over would it make a difference ? that would let the weights move freely . or would it ??
 
I thought of that too, but didn't do it for two reasons:
It was too hard to get the plate on there in the first place.
The instructions say to do it that way:
 
Don't you love it when the artist's illustration makes the assembly look different than it actually is? You don't know if the parts are wrong, the illustration is wrong or the application is wrong.

It would be interesting to know what their tech line would say. You probably can't actually get a tech to reply.

In both examples it looks like one side should have a weaker spring than the other so that weight could get out of the way of the other.

Is the distributor an actual GM HEI or aftermarket?
 
What I did, was grind those tips off. So it didn't hang up, off idle anymore.



No matter which springs were on it, before and after grinding the weights, the spark still was very erratic at 2000 RPM. The old weights don't do that. I don't know what the answer is.
Those little plastic bushings on the pivot pins were sliding up too, and the weights would almost go under them. At least with the old weights, they have a well worn groove to ride in. :rolleyes:
 
What are the opinions on this timing curve?
It's a 250, with 10# of boost (right now, I might go lower), and of course it's running propane. It's draw through, with no intercooler. I called NGK back when I bought spark plugs, and bought the plugs that the tech recommended, based on these things. (Hotter for propane, cooler for turbo, I can't remember which way for the altitude here, and another step cooler because of the normally high ambient temperatures here.)

I don't really care how much power it makes, as long as it runs smooth, and I'd like to get decent mileage. I'm not using the vacuum advance right now, but I ordered one that only advances 5°, and starts coming in at 6"Hg, and the full 5° at 13"Hg. As long as it does what it's supposed to do, I'll put that on later.

The blue is what I got from testing. The red is what I'm thinking of setting it to.
The problem is, since my tach doesn't work, I can't say where the boost is coming on, or how fast.

 
The curve in red looks good. I have tuned a few v8 propane set ups and they loved timing. Just have to watch the total timing with running boost.
 
The curve in red looks good. I have tuned a few v8 propane set ups and they loved timing. Just have to watch the total timing with running boost.
Thanks Stude. It's hard to find info on boosting with propane. It's hard to even get a handle on the "octane" rating. It really doesn't have an octane rating, but it's equivalent to about 110 octane. Some places say "over 100". I've read others that say 130, but I know that's wrong, because that's what natural gas is. On top of all that, octane rating is a bit confusing to begin with. There's a couple different testing methods to get "octane" and they just stick them together, and average them. That's why you see (R+M)/2 method on the gas pumps.
Then, if that weren't enough, LPG is not 100% propane. In the US and Canada, it's at least 90% propane, and then there's 4 other gases thrown in.

What are the opinions on this timing curve?
It's a 250, with 10# of boost (right now, I might go lower), and of course it's running propane. It's draw through, with no intercooler. I called NGK back when I bought spark plugs, and bought the plugs that the tech recommended, based on these things. (Hotter for propane, cooler for turbo, I can't remember which way for the altitude here, and another step cooler because of the normally high ambient temperatures here.)

I don't really care how much power it makes, as long as it runs smooth, and I'd like to get decent mileage. I'm not using the vacuum advance right now, but I ordered one that only advances 5°, and starts coming in at 6"Hg, and the full 5° at 13"Hg. As long as it does what it's supposed to do, I'll put that on later.

The blue is what I got from testing. The red is what I'm thinking of setting it to.
The problem is, since my tach doesn't work, I can't say where the boost is coming on, or how fast.


So I checked the plugs, and they're UR6. The original spec plug is UR4, so these are 2 steps cooler.

I found some interesting stuff in this book ↓↓↓, and I basically want to put this link here so I can find it later.

ASTM LP-Gas Engine Fuels STP-525
https://books.google.com/books?id=C...6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=propane octane 130&f=false
 
Finally, headlights.

So I started like this:


Made a couple of these:


Which match the outside diameter of the housings on the inside, and the outside diameter of the lenses, on the outside: (one for each lens)


Put a trim ring on it:


I painted the interior of the housing with chrome colored spray paint, to mask the inner headlight outline. I made some curved spacers, to go between the outer ring, and the housing, then attached them with some brass screws, and yowza!
 
I think I saw where you found that picture.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166038
When you get to post #23, he says that it was supposed to be the other way. I don't know. I still can't get past the fact that he paid $350 for a new GM distributor, then put a $6 Chinese curve kit in it to make it better. Now he says he can't get enough advance at idle, but has the vacuum advance removed. [S

I just tried the new kit because my weights and pins are worn so bad, and the springs are too weak. At least I got new springs out of the deal.

As I read more and more things on the internet, it just makes me more and more put off by the whole thing. I just read a comment by some guy that said your vacuum advance shouldn't advance at all, at idle. Just exactly when does this guy think that your engine has the most vacuum? Uhghghghghh I was talking to another guy a few days ago, after I had to reset his timing because his distributor couldn't turn any further. I unplugged his vacuum advance with the engine running, and nothing happened. I told him he needed to get a new one, and he said "oh I don't drive it fast anyway". Oh? Well what about the straight open vacuum leak? You need the vacuum advance for low speeds and cruise anyway!

No but it looks like you aint the only one having this trouble .. I found it threw this 100 different dist , pictures :D https://www.google.com/search?q=poi...v&sa=X&ei=nhcKVdKZJMKWgwSNtISgBQ&ved=0CCAQsAQ I kept looking till I found some like yours ...and it is the same picture ..
 
Cold forging with a vise - nice job!

Tons of last minute progress! If you had had a show to go to 8 years ago, it would have only taken 1 year to build?

I'm kind of blown away by the distributor weight thing. How many million distributors have they built with weights? Problems like yours are completely off my radar. They are so "normal" you can hardly find a distributor machine anywhere.
 
Cold forging with a vise - nice job!

Tons of last minute progress! If you had had a show to go to 8 years ago, it would have only taken 1 year to build?

I'm kind of blown away by the distributor weight thing. How many million distributors have they built with weights? Problems like yours are completely off my radar. They are so "normal" you can hardly find a distributor machine anywhere.
If anyone wants to buy me this thing, I would be so grateful.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sun-Distributor-Machine-Model-500/141554081886?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dbdad6cea047a4865a4ce28dc39f098f4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D221700956437&rt=nc

I kinda feel like I'm getting away with something by spending so much time working on it. My wife is a hot-rod widow, and if my friends or family come over, they have to sit on milk crates and watch me work, 'cause it's not quittin' time yet.
 

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