What I did, was grind those tips off. So it didn't hang up, off idle anymore.
Stock original, as far as I can tell.Is the distributor an actual GM HEI or aftermarket?
Thanks Stude. It's hard to find info on boosting with propane. It's hard to even get a handle on the "octane" rating. It really doesn't have an octane rating, but it's equivalent to about 110 octane. Some places say "over 100". I've read others that say 130, but I know that's wrong, because that's what natural gas is. On top of all that, octane rating is a bit confusing to begin with. There's a couple different testing methods to get "octane" and they just stick them together, and average them. That's why you see (R+M)/2 method on the gas pumps.The curve in red looks good. I have tuned a few v8 propane set ups and they loved timing. Just have to watch the total timing with running boost.
What are the opinions on this timing curve?
It's a 250, with 10# of boost (right now, I might go lower), and of course it's running propane. It's draw through, with no intercooler. I called NGK back when I bought spark plugs, and bought the plugs that the tech recommended, based on these things. (Hotter for propane, cooler for turbo, I can't remember which way for the altitude here, and another step cooler because of the normally high ambient temperatures here.)
I don't really care how much power it makes, as long as it runs smooth, and I'd like to get decent mileage. I'm not using the vacuum advance right now, but I ordered one that only advances 5°, and starts coming in at 6"Hg, and the full 5° at 13"Hg. As long as it does what it's supposed to do, I'll put that on later.
The blue is what I got from testing. The red is what I'm thinking of setting it to.
The problem is, since my tach doesn't work, I can't say where the boost is coming on, or how fast.
I think I saw where you found that picture.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166038
When you get to post #23, he says that it was supposed to be the other way. I don't know. I still can't get past the fact that he paid $350 for a new GM distributor, then put a $6 Chinese curve kit in it to make it better. Now he says he can't get enough advance at idle, but has the vacuum advance removed. [S
I just tried the new kit because my weights and pins are worn so bad, and the springs are too weak. At least I got new springs out of the deal.
As I read more and more things on the internet, it just makes me more and more put off by the whole thing. I just read a comment by some guy that said your vacuum advance shouldn't advance at all, at idle. Just exactly when does this guy think that your engine has the most vacuum? Uhghghghghh I was talking to another guy a few days ago, after I had to reset his timing because his distributor couldn't turn any further. I unplugged his vacuum advance with the engine running, and nothing happened. I told him he needed to get a new one, and he said "oh I don't drive it fast anyway". Oh? Well what about the straight open vacuum leak? You need the vacuum advance for low speeds and cruise anyway!
If anyone wants to buy me this thing, I would be so grateful.Cold forging with a vise - nice job!
Tons of last minute progress! If you had had a show to go to 8 years ago, it would have only taken 1 year to build?
I'm kind of blown away by the distributor weight thing. How many million distributors have they built with weights? Problems like yours are completely off my radar. They are so "normal" you can hardly find a distributor machine anywhere.
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