Party Rat Study

[kenny c]

Nice progress! [P[P[P[P

 

[Old Stuff]

Great fab skills. What an adventure! [cl

[P

 

[Hoovail]

Looking great! I love seeing progress made. I was afraid this thread was dead!

 

[soltz]

Headers look good[
It’s coming along [cl

 

[Couper]

They aren't perfect by any means but neither is the car.

I love the look of the headers 400. I'm building my first set as well.

 

[400orbust]

Thanks all. There is motivation in encouragement so more to come. My rims finally showed up a couple days ago (I think I ordered them 6 months ago). So you'll see those before too long.

Also, As I was remembering back to building the headers a few things I thought I'd note. I unknowingly bought aluminized tubing. It was very difficult to gas weld as the aluminum layer just floating on the heated metal. I finally figured out a "heat and scrape" method to remove the aluminum but it would have been so much easier to have just mild steel tubing. I bought a cold saw (evolution) that was invaluable in cutting all the tubing and I highly recommend for anyone who attempts this. Cuts are quick and easy. Since my headers are mirror identical I built them as the same time which really helped keep them looking the same. The holes in the header plates are rectangular for buick nailheads so I welded up a pyramid shape and pounded/formed the round tubing on those. It worked really well.

 

[Couper]

Did you make those bends or buy U tubes?

 

[400orbust]

I bought a box of random bends plus bought a few specific pieces and the 4 to 1 collector. The tubes are 1-5/8" and the collector to exhaust is 3"

 

[400orbust]

Today I installed the battery tray.

 

[400orbust]

...and tried to tighten up some air leaks in my air valve. I'm really having a hard time getting the leaks to stop using the copper tubing. It is hard to work with in the tight space. I may end up using plastic air lines coming out the back of the valve body then adapt to copper. Anybody successfully adapted plastic to copper?

 

[400orbust]

Here is the finished driver side header to "tail" pipe.

 

[400orbust]

And, to finish the night off, the first look at my wheels!

 

[lowbudget50]

...and tried to tighten up some air leaks in my air valve. I'm really having a hard time getting the leaks to stop using the copper tubing. It is hard to work with in the tight space. I may end up using plastic air lines coming out the back of the valve body then adapt to copper. Anybody successfully adapted plastic to copper?

Are you using a push in style fitting or a feral fitting?? Inonly use push style. Way less leaks. I adapted from copper to plastic with a straight push in union. Worked just fine.

 

[400orbust]

I used ferrule fittings. I'll look at getting push in fittings for plastic tubing then adaptors to the copper. Hopefully that will help. Thanks!

 

[lowbudget50]

I used ferrule fittings. I'll look at getting push in fittings for plastic tubing then adaptors to the copper. Hopefully that will help. Thanks!

Id get rid of all the ferrule fittings.

 

[05snopro440]

I used ferrule fittings. I'll look at getting push in fittings for plastic tubing then adaptors to the copper. Hopefully that will help. Thanks!

Regardless of the material you choose, you should use a connection that is suitable for your application. Compression fittings (ferrule fittings as you called them) are not suitable for applications with vibration, I.E it's the wrong connection for use on a hot rod, and may or may not be suitable for the pressure you're requesting it to hold depending on the components used. Most copper compression fittings are intended for fluids as well, not compressible gases which are quite a bit different.

Copper piping connections should be either soldered or threaded in this application for best success. If you use push-in fittings they need to be the right stuff. If you lose air your suspension drops. Safety here is huge.

It's my job to investigate all kinds of failures including piping failures, and unfortunately we routinely see failures where products were used in an application they're not suited for.

 

[kenny c]

In heavy duty trucks ferrule fittings were used with plastic DOT air lines with a sleeve inside the line. Now push in fittings are used. They have a better seal and are a lot easier to use. Copper lines are used very rarely and only with a single flare. Generally were heat is an issue. Vibration is the enemy here. Usually these are secured very well with clamps and brackets. Not trying to be a know it all. Just trying to help and save you some grief. Hope this didn't come across wrong. The wheels look great

 

[400orbust]

Thank you all for the input, I appreciate it. So what I'm hearing is...get rid of the copper air lines and just go to air line specific plastic tubing? I really like the look of the copper but you guys are absolutely correct, it is a safety issue. I don't want to loose air pressure cruising down the road! Or is there a safe way to use copper?

 

[05snopro440]

Thank you all for the input, I appreciate it. So what I'm hearing is...get rid of the copper air lines and just go to air line specific plastic tubing? I really like the look of the copper but you guys are absolutely correct, it is a safety issue. I don't want to loose air pressure cruising down the road! Or is there a safe way to use copper?

Personally I'd go to as much steel line as possible with flared fittings.

 

[lowbudget50]

I use all polyline on my air ride systems. Padded straps are your friend. My Chevy is done with all polyline it's been done for 12 years it's strapped every foot and a half or so and I have never lost a line. Not to say that it can't happen and with an air ride system checking your lines and fittings and bags regularly is something you're going to want to do.