Roadster pickup build, take two.

[donsrods]

It's been so long since I posted any updates on my rpu project that I figured I would just start again with a new thread. Over the past year, with health and other issues, I really just let it lay dormant. But I have decided to try to have it on the road for Turkey Run in November, so I am hitting on it once again.

The running gear is basically done. I have a crate 350 Chevy in it, TH350, and 8 inch rear. All of that is pretty much done. Now I am down to a few small items and bodywork and interior.

Dan has been welding in the two front cowl patch panels for me, and he is done on that phase right now. So, I can strip the body to bare metal and start getting it prepped for paint. (not sure of color or finish yet)

I also picked up the custom made fuel tank I had a local shop build for me, it looks exactly like I hoped. I checked the dimensions on an on line calculator, and it should hold about 7.5 gallons of gas. This is the largest tank I could fit in the shortened bed under the louvered tonneau cover.

I still have to install it and install the fuel sender, and will start on that today.

 

[dowoplover]

Egas....really?

 

[donsrods]

Egas....really?

Yep, I'm just kind of a 2019 guy, ya know.

 

[05snopro440]

Looking good, I'm excited to see this get finished. If I remember correctly, the frame is all painted and essentially ready for the body, right?

With 7.5 gallons of gas you'll have about the range of a Harley [ddd

 

[BillM]

Thanks for the update, glad to see you getting back at it.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

I'd think you have to drill and tap for the sender... how do you keep the shavings out of the tank???

.

 

[Tripper]

Glad to see you back at it Don! [cl

BoB

 

[donsrods]

I tried to multi quote, but it will not let me do it for some reason, and also , I can't post smileys. So, I will answer each one separately:

Looking good, I'm excited to see this get finished. If I remember correctly, the frame is all painted and essentially ready for the body, right?

With 7.5 gallons of gas you'll have about the range of a Harley [ddd

Yep, the frame and all the running gear is powdercoated and done. The engine and trans are also painted, and my headers are coated and sitting under my bed.

I hope I will get pretty good mileage, as long as I stay out of the two end carbs. I put 3:55 gears in this one, so it should cruise pretty good on gas, I hope.

 

[donsrods]

Thanks for the update, glad to see you getting back at it.

Thanks Bill. I lost interest for a while in all things related to cars, but I am getting excited to finish this one up now. I went and got my title work done the other day, so I can now get plates as I get closer to getting it on the road.

 

[donsrods]

I'd think you have to drill and tap for the sender... how do you keep the shavings out of the tank???

.

The shavings will get in there, but I can turn it upside down and shake them out of the filler or the sender holes. I will also run a shop vac down in there to suck any remnants out. Plus, the fuel goes straight to a spin on fuel filter before the electric pump, so that should catch anything I miss.

 

[donsrods]

Glad to see you back at it Don! [cl

BoB

Thanks Tripper , it feels good to be doing stuff again. Today, Dan and I decided to wrap up mounting the radiator and grille shell for the last time, but I was worried about the radiator shaking loose going down the road, so instead of using bolts, we welded two studs into the frame and will use nylock nuts. We removed the grille shell and radiator, and got the studs welded in. Now we can hopefully put the radiator on for the last time.

 

[Tripper]

Thanks Tripper , it feels good to be doing stuff again. Today, Dan and I decided to wrap up mounting the radiator and grille shell for the last time, but I was worried about the radiator shaking loose going down the road, so instead of using bolts, we welded two studs into the frame and will use nylock nuts. We removed the grille shell and radiator, and got the studs welded in. Now we can hopefully put the radiator on for the last time.

Be sure to show a picture of how the radiator's mounted... I'd like to see how the pros do it!

BoB

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

The shavings will get in there, but I can turn it upside down and shake them out of the filler or the sender holes. I will also run a shop vac down in there to suck any remnants out. Plus, the fuel goes straight to a spin on fuel filter before the electric pump, so that should catch anything I miss.

That'll work.

Just curious, Don... why not drill and tap beforehand?

.

 

[bob w]

A chunk of broom handle makes a good gas gauge.

 

[Torchie]

Good to see the flame relit. [cl
Torchie

 

[donsrods]

Be sure to show a picture of how the radiator's mounted... I'd like to see how the pros do it!

BoB

I'll find some pro and get back to you, Bob ! As I mentioned, this radiator has mounts that go to the underside of the frame, instead of on top of the frame, so the weight of the radiator is relying on those bolts to hold it in place. I was worried that vibrations would shake the bolts loose going down the road, so we drilled and tapped the holes, then inserted threaded studs into those holes.

After that was done, Dan welded the studs in place, and now we can use Locktite on Nylock nuts that should not work loose. I'd hate to drop a radiator going down the road !

 

[donsrods]

That'll work.

Just curious, Don... why not drill and tap beforehand?

.

Not sure what you mean, Doc. The tank was totally built when we picked it up from the fabricator, except he left those holes undrilled because he wasn't sure what sender I would pick up. So now we have to drill and tap those holes and it should be no problem to get out the shavings by turning it upside down and using a shop vac.

BTW, when I was at his shop picking up my tank, he had not mounted the fuel cap set up I gave him yet because he wasn't sure which way I wanted it turned. Once I showed him, he got out this neat little drill bit that I have never seen before. It is a combination drill bit and tap all in one.

He drilled down and once the hole was made he kept going further and the tap took over and cut the threads into that same hole. It took all of 10 seconds to do each hole, drilled and tapped. I don't know it those bits only work in aluminum or what, but they sure made it easy.

 

[donsrods]

BobW. I had a stick I carried in my 23 because it had a moon type tank and no sender. Worked pretty well.

Torchie, yep, it feels good to see this thing finally getting done. Since this is probably my last car, it will be special to me. And, when I die, Dan will get his body and all the other parts back that I " borrowed" from him to build it !

 

[bob w]

I was a bit upset when you put the RPU on the shelf. It is my favorite build coming out of your shop. Sure glad you are finishing it.

 

[Tripper]

I'll find some pro and get back to you, Bob ! As I mentioned, this radiator has mounts that go to the underside of the frame, instead of on top of the frame, so the weight of the radiator is relying on those bolts to hold it in place. I was worried that vibrations would shake the bolts loose going down the road, so we drilled and tapped the holes, then inserted threaded studs into those holes.

After that was done, Dan welded the studs in place, and now we can use Locktite on Nylock nuts that should not work loose. I'd hate to drop a radiator going down the road !

Your radiator must be smaller than mine. I wanted to mount mine under the rail but the BB Walker only had 3/8" clearance on both sides so I wound up mounting it to the top... oh well!

BoB