Scratch Building a Coupe

[rsfyj]

Photos

 

[rsfyj]

The best I could do today is Epoxy the frame for the rear window. It must dry now and then I can Epoxy the bottom part. I also welded a piece on the left roof corner bring that up even all around with sheet metal. I have photos of the Epoxy drying if you want to see it??

 

[klink]

The best I could do today is Epoxy the frame for the rear window. It must dry now and then I can Epoxy the bottom part. I also welded a piece on the left roof corner bring that up even all around with sheet metal. I have photos of the Epoxy drying if you want to see it??

It's just like watching paint dry...

 

[rsfyj]

worse I think

 

[rex1927]

Looks great!

Epoxy glue is only way to go with wood that will be varnished.
We use the marine version,but any kind should work fine on a window frame.
If a joint does not show we use 3M 5200.It will shatter wood,fiberglass,etc, before it lets gnly problem with 5200 is it takes a few days to dry unless you get the quick set.We do not use quick set,better to give wood time to soak it in.
Anyway,before I get started on boat repair lesson,I will shut up.
Your metal fabricating skills are fantastic.[
I wish I had half your skills.My trade has always been boats,so my skills are with wood and fiberglass.
I can stick weld OK,but I get someone else to do critical mig welding.Makes my builds take longer,but I know when to step back and let pro weld.
Can`t wait to see your coupe body done.You must be very proud.I know I would be.

 

[rsfyj]

Thanks for the comments, the Epoxy is aircraft type that was used to assemble pool Cues for 25 years. It will take 400 degrees to soften this up when used on metal, to get it apart. I have some left from the good years. The frame will be painted same as the car body, plus it is water proof also good for the seams on the wood.

 

[rsfyj]

I Epoxied the other parts needed for the rear window frame. Now we watch it dry again, eh he. Not much going on I bough some flux wire for my mig and changed the wiring to try it. It worked okay. Ill try some on the car to see what I like and dislike about it..

 

[rsfyj]

It warmed up enough by mid morning to head out to the shop. Well i have finished The out side the Epoxy part , now I rough fit the frame again. I made some cuts that I think look better than leaving it square on the outside. So the rear window frame will have square corners on the inside and rounded corners on the outside. The rounded corners on the outside are in compliance with the rounded roof top corners. I think it looks more flowing others may think otherwise. But that's the nice part of engineering your own car. you are the Boss. Anyone remember the shock stems I modified? Well I got back to them soon they will be buried in sheet metal coverings. So I am making the top mounts now. I have a rough set up just clamped to get the right angles here. As you can see when the shock is angled inwards you shorten the travel of the piston rod it gets shorter.. But if you angle the mounting point the shock travel stays consistent. Just like a compass arc ) degrees is the tallest point 20 degrees it gets shorter and 45 degrees it is shorter yet. Any way this is from the Dirt racing days and the proper way to mount a shock to keep travel the same. I want 3 inches of compression and rebound. The way I set the mounting points will accommodate this plan.The horizontal tube will have 3 holes drilled through it spaced at 0-25-and 45 degrees plus or minus what ever fits the best. I will drill a 5/8ts hole and then weld over the hole with a 1/2 inch nut on each hole to accommodate the shock bolt of 1/2 inch/ with a washer on each side. that's my plan I have the angles worked out so all I have to do is cut and weld the pieces together and that's it.

 

[rsfyj]

photos

 

[rsfyj]

Shock mount photos

 

[rsfyj]

Middle photo is turned sideways, my program wont rotate it so cock your neck a little.

 

[Neverdone]

I am really liking this!!! [cl

Keep up the good work, can't wait to see what you end up with!!!!! [P

 

[rsfyj]

After a cold start I was able to get a few hours in and get the shock mounts roughed out. Drilled the holes but change the sizes. I went to 3/8ts holes for 3/8ts Grade #8 bolts and nuts. I thought 1/2 inch is to large for a cruise car Im not dirt track racing with this. I drilled pilot holes 1st at 1/4 inch then followed with a 7/16 drill to pass the 3/8 bolts. I also made a support for the bracket going to another tube. Things change fast when you actualy get down to doing the pieces. I will get nuts and bolts tomorrow as I dont have any 3/8ts grade #8 here in the shop. I will install thes on each side after I weld the nuts over the holes. I also have to weld one shock bracket to the rear housing trailing arm on each side I only have one with a hole on each side. Some flat steel 3/16 scrap will work here.. I had time to look at my Coupe and evaluate some of my work. Through all that I decided I will lower the wind shoeld 2 inches to give me more visability when I drive. That will give me 2inches more of glass. That's down the road when I get there. I also tried my new sander with some 40 grit and it did a nice fast job of striping off that white appliance paint. I just wanted to see what I was up against, No big deal it came off fast. I have some photos...

 

[rsfyj]

Photos

 

[patina]

any pictures of the whole car?

 

[rsfyj]

start from the beginning i have a few photos of the frame and structures

 

[Neverdone]

So what are you using to curve your square tubes??

 

[rsfyj]

go back and look at the 1st of the build and you will see where i used a plywood form on the car frame and pulled it with a come-a-long to bend the tubes

 

[rsfyj]

No bolt shopping today we have a snow storm I'll hunker down and wait it out.

 

[rex1927]

I would stay inside too.

A snow storm.
I was born and raised here in Coastal S.C.
It was in the mid 60`s today.
I can`t handle that white stuff.
Guess it`s all a matter of what you are used to.