Scratch Building a Coupe
- Thread starter rsfyj
- Start date
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I pulled the engine the hard way, jacks and come-a-longs. But the 351 Boss engine is now retired in the corner,. My carburettor has arrived and I have to get a rebuild kit for it.So a little has been done now I can get after my steering and dash work.
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Rainy very damp day. I worked in the shop for a while today. I worked on the 2.3 Merkur intake. I drilled out the injector holes with a 37/64 drill. Follow the old hole. I then tapped the holes with a 5/8ts by 18 threads NF so I can plug the holes before I paint etc. I let the tap follow the 37/64 holes and I tapped them all the way through to the inside of the intake runners. I will get some short 18 threaded bolts to plug the holes with. My carbuerator I bought looks rough I don't know if I can rebuild it or not. It is corroded pretty good in the float chambers and also the pump area. I will see how clean I can get it to see how bad it is. I bought some engine paint cans today all except black. I always use the rustoleum high temp flat black used for wood stoves this paint has a higher temperature than the auto stuff. It stays on the exhaust longer its rated for 1300 degrees as opposed to 500 degrees on auto engine paint. I know it stays on my wood stove that burns 8 months out of the year and was red hot a few times on the pipes. So take that for what its worth. That's my choice.
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Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
You could use a remote oil filter setup, they are fairly cheap to buy.
LUCKY DEVIL 13
Greasy Gearhead
Why not just get a remote oil filter kit?
good idea
point me in the right direction I couldnt find one for a 2.3 turbo engine that has the water cooler. thanks
point me in the right direction I couldnt find one for a 2.3 turbo engine that has the water cooler. thanks
I spent time today painting the Tranny from the Merkur it was somewhat dirty. Its better looking now. I also have a photo of the engine in the bay of the Coupe to see what is needed for placement. I find that the transmission shifter is 29.5 inches to the rear of the bell housing flange so you have to place the engine in a spot that you can reach the shifter on the tranny in the drivers seat. So we will live with what I get here. I usually like to set the engine back as far as I can. They handle better when I do that.
More engine painting and other parts. This will mostly all burn off when you run the car. But it looks better to install now. I'm about done with this pretty up things. I will get it all together with the tranny and try to fit it back in the engine bay and get mounts fabricated. I have some photos
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Engine painting is done and I re-fit the transmission. The engine has a new clutch and throw out bearing 20 k ago, so I am good to go here. I have scrounged up some 1.5X3.5 tube pieces for my motor mounts. I put a 4,.5 inch X7/16 bolt through the middle of the tube pieces and welded the bolts so they cant move. I always install the mounts to the engine , then fit the engine centred and at height then weld the mounts to the frame. I have always done that its easier and faster and no chance of misalignment this way. Maybe tomorrow I can get this part done, This is my 3rd engine the 1st was a flathead, then a 351 Boss and now this 2.3 Merkur. I will have to double check where the shifter is located in the drivers seat. I may have to adjust things before the final welding. I have a few photos
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Sam, the 351 Boss engine sits back in the corner where I took it from. Ford only made 8000 Boss engines, so I guess I have a good wall decoration. I would have to invest to much to make it street able. Everyone wants an arm and a leg for parts. So I decided not to play ball with them. I got this engine and tranny from a Merkur that runs plus a title and bill of sale for 300 smackers. smaller will have to be what I use in the coupe. Every Rod I have ever had all had to much power for the street. this one will be more manageable. hopefully.
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I was curious about the flathead too, but I'd guess it caused the same cost problem.
