yes the 50 Merc engine is all apart, i will still rebuild after this car I have it in my machine shop. I also have a1948 Fathead with low compression in one cylinder. I haven’t had time to inspect it fully; I also have 302 all built but have to take off the windsor heads it was all for racing, I have a set of 289 heads all done I can use. I think I want to install this engine and the c4 in the old merkur Body and make it into a pick up.. if I live long enough, heeheheheh
Scratch Building a Coupe
- Thread starter rsfyj
- Start date
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GJunktionMike
Something's wrong with that boy!
I think that merkur power plant will do just fine in your coupe. I had a buddy that had a merkur in his courier pu. Do not under estimate a merkur is all I can say 
I think that merkur power plant will do just fine in your coupe. I had a buddy that had a merkur in his courier pu. Do not under estimate a merkur is all I can say
Ive had all the big engines etc I just want to put along now and fool with this lawn mower type engine. I had 4 or 5 Pintos years back and liked them all but Rust got all of them
Thumpszilla
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2011
- Messages
- 41
Interesting build very ambitious.
sgtpontiac
Older, Wiser and Still Buildin'
Never ceases to amaze me....
Looks good!! [P
Looks good!! [P
Everything comes at once. I received another Carburettor from a `1975 Pinto this one is much better I can use this one after a rebuild. Also My shocks came that I was able to buy for $13.00 a piece that's good for me. The bad part is the stroke of the shock is taller than the original and the threads on the top shaft went to coarse threads instead of fine threads. I will relocate the top mounts higher and re-do the shock eyes I made earlier. I had to lower the transmissio0n to line up with the rear pinion, which means I will have to machine the intake to level the Carb. I think I can mill a spacer i inch from a 4 barrel carb. And I had Jury Duty earlier this AM but was luckily sent home early. I was able to fabricate the rear mounts for the transmission they are all bolted in . I have some photos..
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My remote oil filter arrived and I was also able to clear the frame with the stock filter by rotating it and raising the engine 1.5 inches. But I plan on using my old race dual filter set-up with this remote hook up later when i get it going. Its nicer having more oil for the engine.
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ronnysplymouth
Well-known member
The engine detail looks great but is there a reason you did not paint the oil pan?
yes it was resting on my lift and I figured I can paint it with a brush later when its in the car. I have some scraping yet where it was dragged on the concrete. hehhe Im really not much of a detail man, now my brother is a fanatic with this stuff. i cant get the patience and i figure enough is enough sometimes. i surprised myself when I went this far.
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Not much accomplished today i put on the exhaust manifold. And the alternator.Found out I could not use the power steering pump or bracket. Because it covers up the place for my fuel pump needed for the carb. The bracket also holds the alternator belt adjustment slot and bracket. I will make my own. I don't want to have an electric fuel pump on my car to pump gas all over if I get in a accident. So I will have manual steering which wont hurt my feelings any. My 1964 Ford galaxy was all standard, wipers one speed Generator. manual steering, manual brakes, standard trans, all go. My wife drove this car for 15 years. All this junk they put on cars now a days are just waiting to break and they always do. Electric windows, seats, mirrors, all un- needed junk. Very slow day. fuel injection, sensors all gadgets thrown at you before they were fail tested like in the old days.
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I had to take time to machine a part for my brother-in -law. He broke his transmission shifter adjuster it was made of pot metal. This took a couple of hours to quickly make a piece to get him going again. This one wont brake like that flimsy pot metal one, Solid steel from a 5/8ths rod. Then I was able to fool around with my rear shock eyes that had to be re- made to accept a 3/8ts coarse thread instead of 3/8s fine , like the original shock. Somewhere down the line they changed them. Any way Now I have both thread sizes all I have to do is reverse the eye to get either thread.. I saved 13 dollars on each shock by buying Pinto shocks over Mustang 2 shocks, plus a bunch of others I can use also. What ever is cheapest at the time. Just take the time to search for the best deal along with shipping, many online sellers screw you on shipping so watch out.. I also was able to get the shocks all installed. Three inches of travel up and down will be okay for my local roads.. I also set up my clutch cable to the clutch. But I have to make an adjuster for the pedal end, as I have a 1975 Mustang 2 brake and clutch assembly and using a 1987 Merkur cable and they are different. But free so Ill make the adjuster for the pedal. And I put a quick coat of paint on my starter and Alternator so I can get them on where they belong. Moving right along this engine ran one week ago in the 1987 Merkur it was in. The engines were swapped for a automatic trans and I was the beneficiary of this engine swap. I have a problem with the drive shaft sizes one is small the other is big in diameter, I have to get a 3 inch piece of steel to machine out the adaptor to match the 2 different size drive shafts, and then weld them. Its always something comes up. I have a few photos..
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Managed to install the alternator after touching it up. Then i fabricated a piece of sheet metal to hold my clutch cable to the fire wall. I wasted the last half of the day tearing apart a rear drive shaft universal that has the correct diameter but has the wrong cup hole sizes. I guess ill have to spring for some steel to make the adaptor for the tubes. I was told today I have $1989.36 invested so far. Its creeping up like everything else does.
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Much colder today here in NE. I made a bracket for the clutch pedal with a slot in it to hold the clutch cable. And I welded it to the clutch upper arm in-line with the cable coming through the fire wall. I put a small welded brace for the bracket and it works real nice and smooth. This was going to be a mock up to see what it does . And it worked so nice the 1st time I will keep it this way. Just a little more to tie the cable in place just in case. No big deal will do it later. Some times the simplest idea is the best 2 pieces of scrap metal was used off the bench. I was prepared to machine out rods with slots and holes in them with take up etc. Its good to go for me. I have a few photos.
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sgtpontiac
Older, Wiser and Still Buildin'
Just a suggestion....
I like the Kiss method on as much as possible and this looks like it will work without a hitch...only suggestion..I'd fab up some kind of retainer for the cable so it can't pop out of the notch....might be tight but you know how cables tend to stretch and such....JMHO....otherwise, I agree, keep it simple...
I like the Kiss method on as much as possible and this looks like it will work without a hitch...only suggestion..I'd fab up some kind of retainer for the cable so it can't pop out of the notch....might be tight but you know how cables tend to stretch and such....JMHO....otherwise, I agree, keep it simple...
yup
just to the rear I have a cable holder planed it will fit over the stud that sticks out I will have a do- dad with a grove in it to hold the cable and hold it away from the sharp edge. it got so cold here my darn hands got numb had to break.. heheeh thanks for the second set of eyes. here.
just to the rear I have a cable holder planed it will fit over the stud that sticks out I will have a do- dad with a grove in it to hold the cable and hold it away from the sharp edge. it got so cold here my darn hands got numb had to break.. heheeh thanks for the second set of eyes. here.
yes the kiss principle, 12 years in Army and Division Instructor for many things. I like it also...
