tunnel ram

[8literbeater]

Don't port or polish them. They have 210cc intake runners already, and hopefully they're flow-matched so each port flows the same, or at least they're close. I would hope that anything you do in the ports would be moving backward, unless it's just to knock off some casting burrs.

As for the valves, I sure hope they're ready to run, but you can check to make sure they're seated. Prop the heads up so that the ports will hold liquid. One side at a time, obviously. Pour in some gasoline into each port, one at a time, and see if any leaks past the valves. They shouldn't leak at all.

 

[8literbeater]

Aww shoot! I was out-clicked! Yes, port blending to the intake is a good idea too.

 

[Old Iron]

No problem. I'd rather see someone get it right the first time as to keep spending hard earned money on pipe dreams
There are less things that work than things that do.
I'd be honored to meet ya one of these days!!!

 

[8literbeater]

I found em.
http://www.competitionracingsupply....--PCM-3003C--sbc_aluminum_cylinder_heads.html

 

[mdlahotrod]

Tunnel ram

Thanks guys. I shant be touchin the new heads iffin I ain't gotta. Maybe just the valve seats but I'll do as 8liter suggested first. I saw something like that on utube yesterday too but he used oil. That's how I got the idea of not using the heads right out of the box. I really hope they don't leak. I mean takin the springs off and getting valves out is easy, but putting back in with that rickety spring compressor that Auto Zone loans ya may be a challenge. The only thing I could see on the heads is where they drilled for the plugs need to be deburred on the inside but that's a piece of cake. Metal work I can do. Did it for 36 years workin on Navy aircraft. Although workin with steel is a little different then workin with aluminum. Aluminum's much easier but same principle. If I were still workin, especially on night shift, I'd have access to a whole metal shop. Now no breaks, benders metal saws.....all done by hand now. It's hard to justify buyin all that kinda stuff since this is the only car I'll be building........I think. Plus....also just received a Lincoln 140 Mig welder. Never welded a thing in my life........but I'm fixin to. [ My dad was a welder. Wish I woulda learned from him but kinda late now. I'll let em guide me from Heaven.

 

[Toad]

S-10 rear ends are actually quite resilient.

I agree but I ran a regular size rear tire to keep from tearing it out and that worked. I didn't abuse it but I did my fair share of street racing too.

Toad

 

[mdlahotrod]

Tunnel ram

Hey guys. Hope all are doin well and getting ready for the holidays.
A couple more questions. Distributor and torque converter. Old Iron....you had mentioned a 2800 stall converter. You still stand by that. Also, as far as a distributor, like I said, the engine I got on trade didn't have one. Do I need some sort of high performance one? Or will a stock replacement one do?? [S

 

[8literbeater]

Hey guys. Hope all are doin well and getting ready for the holidays.
A couple more questions. Distributor and torque converter. Old Iron....you had mentioned a 2800 stall converter. You still stand by that. Also, as far as a distributor, like I said, the engine I got on trade didn't have one. Do I need some sort of high performance one? Or will a stock replacement one do?? [S

For what it's worth:
If you're considering a large-cap distributor, make sure it will fit with your tunnel ram. "Stock" distributors work just fine. Just don't give yourself the headache of buying one of those $75 or $100 HEI distributors from ebay or anyone else. Get a good brand name that has a good reputation. Delco Remy, or AC Delco for example. Those would be a good quality, stock distributor.

Taylor seems to make good stuff, and it's made in the U.S. They sell a typical large cap HEI for something like $130. Mallory has been bought by MSD, so most of the Mallory stuff is going away. Accel was a part of Mallory, but I don't trust them anyway. Chevrolet Performance is another one that's basically stock, but should be good, and it's a Chevrolet part. I can't tell you much about PerTronix or Moroso. I've heard that some people like the Davis Unified Ignition distributors.

I don't like MSD. I do like Crane. I also use junkyards and rebuild kits.

 

[soltz]

8liter is right on with HEI won't fit. I learned the hard way and now i have a new HEI i can't use.

Sorry for the hug picture, photobucket is not cooperating[S

 

[mdlahotrod]

Tunnel ram

Wow....thanks guys. Fitting the distributor in behind the tunnel ram is certainly somethin I never thought of. I gotta tell ya, the information I get from you guys is invaluable. Believe me, I'm takin all this to heart and am complying with all your suggestions. Thanks again if I haven't said that enough already. Between yall and those Utube videos, I may just have a great runnin motor. [cl

 

[Old Iron]

It's been said before but, this really is the best forum on the interweb.

 

[8literbeater]

If you're up for the high price, I prefer the Crane Cams 1000-1501. There's a few left on eBay for about $375. Then you still need the ignition box.

D.U.I. makes a small cap HEI that doesn't require an external ignition box. Then you have no rev limiter. http://performancedistributors.com/product/gm-tri-power-ignition-system/

PerTronix also makes an all-in-one small cap distributor, and they sell a rev limiter that can be used on any distributor. (except CD) The distributor is about $260, and the rev limiter is about $150.

The MSD 8361 is $234 from Summit. (Still needs an ignition box.) It comes with different springs and bushings to adjust your curve. I ran one for about 5k miles, and when I thought the electronics went bad inside, I pulled it out to check it. The thrust washer on the shaft was badly worn, and the shaft had way too much end play. This translates to a change in timing. The weights and bushings were showing significant wear too.
It turns out that the Jacobs ignition box was bad, not the distributor, so I can't blame MSD for anything there. If it had been bad, I would have had to disassemble the distributor, and pull the shaft out to replace the electronics, and the cost was $75 for the parts.

It looks like Mallory makes some pretty sweet rigs with ball bearings instead of bushings. I've got to do some work now, but I'm gonna check on those Mallorys and get back to you.

 

[8literbeater]

It looks like Mallory has a a couple of distributors that are just amazing. They're called E-Fire, and Max-Fire. All you have to do is connect power, ground, and positive and negative for the coil. Everything else is built-in, and you set the settings and run with it. I can't tell the difference between the E-Fire and the Max-Fire except that the Max-Fire is CD, costs more, and has a couple of bad customer reviews. They even share the same instruction sheet.
I would go with the E-Fire, because as long as it doesn't go bad, it'll be cheaper in the long run. An ignition box with a rev limiter is gonna run at least $200. Add that to a $250 distributor, and you're at the price of the Mallory. Then the springs and weights, vacuum canisters, and tylenol all cost extra. Plus you have to find a place to mount the box, run the wiring, ahh what a pain. Plus, I like to be able to fiddle with adjustments.

Get a second or third opinion on this. I just think it's the bee's knees. I could be making it out to be more than it is.

mallory-ignition.com/e-fire-distributor-chevy-w-small-cap.html
www.amazon.com/Mallory-USA-2248214-E-Fire-Distributor/dp/B001NBBDBU

mallory-ignition.com/max-fire-distributor-chevy-small-cap.html
www.amazon.com/Mallory-1248214-Max-Fire-Distributor/dp/B001NBBD60

E-FIRE DISTRIBUTORS
Features At A Glance:
• High Energy Inductive Storage – 7.5 Amp Maximum Current
• All Electronic RPM Based and Vacuum Based Advance Curves
• Select from 7 Preprogrammed Performance Advance Curves or
Custom Build Your Own
• Digital Rev Limiting
• Boost Proportional Retard for Supercharged or Turbocharged
Engines (3 BAR MAP Sensor Built-in)
• All Billet CNC Machined Housings
• Hall Effect Triggering for Maximum Timing Accuracy at any RPM
• Combination Ball Bearing & Bushing Shaft Support for
Maximum High RPM Stability
• Convertible between Standard or Large Diameter Caps
• Complete with Windows Based Software for Total Adjustability
• Ready to Drop in And Run - No Ignition Box Required

 

[mdlahotrod]

Tunnel ram

Thanks 8Liter.
Well, that's a lot to absorb seein as I don't have a clue about such things. LOL
I will be checkin on the E-fire for sure. Seems like that's about all that's left engine wise. They do seem a little pricey though. Boy....there goes my retirement money.
The block and pistons and all are in the machine shop now. The block's bein bored .010 more and everything's bein balanced. I just ordered the starter today and like I said, the roller rockers and distributor is about all I have left. Oh....and the pushrods. I had ordered a set prematurely and they turned out not to be hardened steel, plus the engine guy said not to order those till we know what length to get so that's on hold for now. I got the Melling's High volume "NOT high pressure" oil pump and already given that to the engine guy. He's pretty much gonna assemble the engine as in my ignorance, when asked what was goin in for what reasons[S......well, I couldn't answer some of his question so I figured it may just be better to have someone that really knows what they're doin put it together. I've spent too much money even thus far to have somethin mess up. Now I can start on the metal work which I AM familiar with.

 

[mdlahotrod]

Tunnel ram

I was lookin at the distributors. Specially the E-fire. Looks like a lotta plug in stuff that suppose to go to computer driven stuff. Is that what all that's for?? Ain't no computer driven stuff on this car.
I was also lookin at the Mallory 8361M Promaster which looks pretty much plain forward old timey distributor. Can any of yas let me know if that would be good for my build or not? Appreciate any and all info.
Thanks

 

[Old Iron]

Use a stock Chevy points style distributor and install a Pertronix pointless module.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Pertronix/751...xLIp1RZGOYDALdNAhhcvYkz5waNdGi2hMoxoCyC_w_wcB

 

[8literbeater]

Use a stock Chevy points style distributor and install a Pertronix pointless module.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Pertronix/751...xLIp1RZGOYDALdNAhhcvYkz5waNdGi2hMoxoCyC_w_wcB

I can't remember the last time I saw a points style distributor for a Chevy V8. That would work fine though.

I was lookin at the distributors. Specially the E-fire. Looks like a lotta plug in stuff that suppose to go to computer driven stuff. Is that what all that's for?? Ain't no computer driven stuff on this car.
I was also lookin at the Mallory 8361M Promaster which looks pretty much plain forward old timey distributor. Can any of yas let me know if that would be good for my build or not? Appreciate any and all info.
Thanks

From the instruction sheet:
BLACK WIRE- connects to the vehicle ground
RED WIRE- connects to the 12 volt ignition wire from the key switch
ORANGE WIRE-connects to the coil + terminal
BLACK WIRE-connects to the coil – terminal

That's all there is to it.

 

[mdlahotrod]

Tunnel ram

Thanks guys. That sounds simple enough. I'll be lookin at replacement distributors today. Reckon I can get a stock distributor at places like autozone or o'reillys right? I'll go online and see.

 

[8literbeater]

Make sure you get one from 1971 or older with the small cap.
O'Reilly has one made in Taiwan for $55. They usually last at least 200 miles.
The other is a Cardone brand reman for $294 plus $125 core for a total of $419. It doesn't come with a cap, which is $18, or a rotor, $9. Then you can get that PerTronix unit for $90.
Your potential total comes to $536 plus tax.

You could skip the PerTronix, but you'll need to wire in a ballast resistor, they're $10, so you could subtract $80, for a total of $456 plus tax.
You'll also probably spend some time getting the right springs, weights, and cam plate if you want to bother with setting up a good advance curve. The last spring and weight kit I bought was a piece of junk, so I don't have any recommendations. Some people don't bother. You may also end up switching out the vacuum advance canister for a different one, maybe an adjustable one. You could just lock the vacuum advance out.

I actually like spending the hours setting up the right springs, weights, vacuum can, and mapping out the timing curve, when it works. It's part of the meditative aspect of repairing things. I'm a tinker.

I also like to decide exactly what I want for an advance curve, select it with a switch, and drive. That's why I like the new electronic distributors with no moving parts, and preprogrammed advance curves. I also like rev limiters, personally. I'd hate to have a broken u-joint turn into bent valves.

Hopefully, you can find something more affordable. I don't mean to come off sounding rude. I'm only wishing to help.

PS: A-1 Cardone and Cardone, are not the same. A-1 Cardone is made in China. Cardone is supposedly... not.

 

[smallfoot]

This might be an option as well...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/PerTronix-D100701-Chevy-Flame-Thrower-Distributor,9884.html