1933 dodge 4dr to 2dr update

[Sam_Fear]

Yep the ford truck nine inch is a 31 spline 5 on 5 lug pattern and the car nine is a 28 spline 4 1/2 on 4/12 lug pattern.
Hate it when that happens

Depends on how old the 9" is. My 63 F100 is 28 spline 5 on 5-1/2. I think 28 spline went to '66 in trucks? Then went to metric bolt pattern sometime in the 80's. Also I think the cars usually had a centered pinion meaning the axles would be two different lengths. Lincolns, Mercs, and cop cars often have a different lug pattern - 5 on 4 maybe?

Dealing with Fords ain't for the simple minded, that's for sure.

 

[skull]

short

sam is right about the axles, on the rear-end l have the passenger side is longer than the driver side.

l bought the chassis and the 1929 ford fiberglass body as a kit, the 9 inch rear-end in the chassis was shortend to 45 inches flange to flange and designed to use Caddy disc's and E-brake set up.

l visited the company l purchased the kit from, they have a huge pile of 9''s out back, they have deals with the local wrecking yards to buy all they can get because they sell 7 or 8 different kits and sell nationwide and canada. when the rear-ends get shortend it's a crap shoot as to what the rear-end came out of 'couse they just grab one outta pile & cut off every thing but the pumpkin area, weld in new bigger axle tubes and machine it to fit what ever kit there building it for.

the axles start out as blanks and are machined to the "new'' rear-end and you can choose the bolt pattern, l choose 5 X 4 3/4 chvey so l could change wheels between all my other cars and l have a ton of rollers that are all chevy wheels.

so it's hard to tell what the original model of vehicle the 9'' l have came from.


the driveshaft is gonna be a short thing, 32 1/4 inches long.

Later

 

[skull]

door pull

on the 1948 Chrysler l parted out, it had these cool handles on the back of the front seats to help the rear passengers in/out.

l am going to use them for the door pulls on the rat rod.

Later

 

[skull]

frustion

got the timing close, was 18O out, now it turns over and runs as long as you hold the key in the on position, dies as soon as it's released.

changed ignition switches twice, same problem, at a loss[S

it's a PAINLESS HARNESS, l will call them tomorrow to see if they have a solution. we even followed the instructions that came with the kit.

for the 3 seconds it runs it sounds good

Later

 

[ronnysplymouth]

Do you have a ballast resistor inline.....they'll do that when they are bad

 

[skull]

seats

skull covers: seats out of a 2OO1 kia, can't afford to recover them right now so 2 $7.OO clearance rack wally world car seat covers

they'll be 0 K till l can have the recovered in black.

Later

 

[Bamamav]

got the timing close, was 18O out, now it turns over and runs as long as you hold the key in the on position, dies as soon as it's released.

changed ignition switches twice, same problem, at a loss[S

it's a PAINLESS HARNESS, l will call them tomorrow to see if they have a solution. we even followed the instructions that came with the kit.

for the 3 seconds it runs it sounds good

Later

Sounds like you have power to the coil when the starter is engaged, but not when you let off of it. Check your wiring, you should have a 12V key on hot to the coil. I would start at the switch, find the wire that is 12V hot with the switch in the run position, then trace it and make sure it's connected to the coil {or HEI BATT terminal if running a HEI}.

 

[skull]

thanks

thanks bamy, l will give that at try


l told them it was for a chevy with H E I, so one would think a "complete" harness when you buy it new from the manufacturer would have that wired in.


Later

 

[MercuryMac]

Hi Scull, Bamamav is right, you have to have two separate ignition circuits from the key switch to the coil or HEI, one from the 'start' position and one from the 'run' position of the key switch. The 'start' circuit will be 12V all the way but the 'run' circuit will go through a voltage reducer, at least on a Ford or Chrysler product.
Keep on tinkering.

 

[Kurtm333]

Resister

No ballast resister on chev HEI. Try a jumper wire from the alternator run wire to the battery terminal under your HEI cap. Make sure it's hot when key is in the run position.

Good luck

Kurt

 

[skull]

Vr00m-vr00m

' MercMAn' "Hi Scull," is that a Canadin' spelling for Skull[S


thanks to everyone for jumpin' in & helping,

we ran the hot to coil and it fired, so we knew we were wrong someplace, & the solenoid was bad, which is weird 'couse it's a new starter. but l have another new one for another project l thru in and it worked great.

it lives[cl

we went thru the wiring again and found a crossed wire, same color as a wire that runs to the front , just goes to a different place hooked it up to coil side of the distributor and WALLLA , fired right up on the third crank

it sounds wicked, lump, lump, lump, lumps beautiful.

happy happy joy joy...................

knowing that it runs lifts a big burden off my chest since l did not build it.

Later

 

[Dirtyrat]

Great job! always good when a problem is solved!

 

[skull]

lights

setback: got it all together in the front of the motor and radiator and the darn brand new aluminum water pump leaks at the block where it bolts up. we had to disassemble the whole front of the motor to take it off and fix it. l put the straight edge on it and the mating surface was not flat. took a flat file and removed a 1/8'' to get it level and flat. with new parts ya think you would not have that problem.

we got the headlights & front turn signals wired in and the exhaust on[cl

tail lights and rear signals and odds & ends tomorrow,,,,,,,,,,,,,

it's getting close to road test

Later

 

[MercuryMac]

Hi skull,
My name calling problem is probably more 'old guy memory' than 'foreigner English' Anyhow, I thank you for 'blazing a trail' for me to follow with my '33 Plymouth sedan. That'll be a while in the future yet, though. Good work. You've taught me things that will save me learning the hard way.
Keep on tinkering.

 

[skull]

pics are good

MercuryMac, post up some pics of that '33 Plymouth sedan[P

glad l could help.

Later

 

[skull]

drive shaft

the drive shaft is done, go to get it tomorrow, kinda expensive but l put in all new parts so it won't (hopefully) break when l hammer on it.

l have 4 or 5 sets of tires off my circle track car l can't run on the road so l want to find a parking lot rally to go see how she handles and l have a few old useless tire l want to go do a big honkin' burnout just 'couse l have not done that for a long time. l have WAY to much respect in Jimmy's truck to do any of the above activities in.

Later

 

[skull]

friday cruz' in

first time in the light of day in about 3 years.

we had a good time tonite and people seemed to like the car, be glad when we can actually drive it around.

defiantly have to put the bigger tires on the rear to help fill in the big fender well holes.

0h well, on to some pics[P

Later

 

[earthman]

Let the good times roll! Time to enjoy the results of all that thought and effort.

 

[Dirtyrat]

Looks like a driver to me!

 

[MercuryMac]

Hi skull,
Here's my '33 Plymouth sedan. It was sitting on it's farside top rear corner for fifty years when I rescued it. The floors are really good and the lower sides are also good. It's the upper back that's toast, so I have to make it into a coupe, don't you see. I have a photo shop coupe picture but I can't find it right now.