'47 Dodge shop truck

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Transmission overdrive control

I'm using a 518 Dodge transmission out of a 1995 2 wheel drive. It is a 46RH
with overdrive and a locking torque convertor.

I could use toggle switches to control the OD and locking convertor but I wanted it to down shift from the skinny pedal. After some research, I found a set up for PATC that will control it with a vacuum switch and 2 pressure switches tapped into the governor pressure on the transmission.

Seems simple enough. If I can figure out how to get the pressure set right on the vacuum switch, I think it will work.

Kind of a tight fit but I got the switches mounted and will get the wiring to the solenoids done next. Getting really close to seeing if this thing is going to run down the road as planned.
 
A couple of pics.
 

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For the records, I went through "Haywire" and found a lock out kit for the 700r4 similar to what you are doing. wires, pressure switch, and all for $ 60-65 I think. Look them up and see it it might be of interest to you.
Progress look great. keeps us looking forward to the "test run"
 
For the records, I went through "Haywire" and found a lock out kit for the 700r4 similar to what you are doing. wires, pressure switch, and all for $ 60-65 I think. Look them up and see it it might be of interest to you.
Progress look great. keeps us looking forward to the "test run"

Thanks. I got it going my way I think.
I had a thought today about what I'm going to do when I get this ride done.
Maybe I'll go fishing.
 
Nice job on the switch POPS.
Like everyone else I can't wait to see this one go down the road.:D
Torchie

Thanks Torchie. I've got a whole lot of little things to finish.
Then there's that money thing again. I don't know how I manage to
stay broke 3 weeks out of every month.
 
Any one have a pig tail to plug into a 1995 518 Dodge transmission for a the overdrive/torque convertor lock out?

I figured you could just go get one at the parts house. No such luck.
I guess I'll be hitting the junk yards tomorrow.

It's the little things that will trip you up and make you want to pull your hair out.
 
Pops, I hope everything works just right when you get it all together. All these little things that happen around "ride" time may seem big cause the itch to run it seems to grow. But look back at the rest of the project and where it's come from and these little things will go down easier...[cl
 
I have fallen way behind on this build.. I got some catching up to do! its looking real nice!
 
Rounded third base, heading for home. [cl

I almost hate to see the build end because it has been so interesting to follow along.
 
Thanks guys.

I have spent all day at junk yards and crawled under 13 dodge pick ups and vans that came with this transmission and every one had the wiring coupler I need cut off the harness.

Just when I was ready to give up and jerry rig something, my bud from NAPA calls and said he found one in Ogden Utah. So the first of the week I should be able to get that part of it wrapped up. What a pain.

While in town I checked on having a drive shaft made. $342.00!!!! That's hiway robbery and it ain't gonna happen. So its back to the U Pull It for the dodge front half to marry to the Camaro rear that I have.
 
$300 - $400 seems to be the going price on driveshafts around here. The last one I had modified was $275. The last one I had built was $350 + $85 for the Ford slip yoke.

Connectors seems to be some of the hardest items to get a hold of. Then a lot of them come with pigtails so you need connectors to connect the connectors.
 
That drive shaft price is average.
If you have both ends then around here it's $200 to $275
If'n ya don't have both ends, you can expect to pay $350 +
 
Hey friend, I just had one cut and balanced from th400 to 9" ford in the Auburn project for $128-129 in Tulsa. Tulsa drive line. it might be worth calling and checking shipping both ways. Just a thought.
 

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