International L122 B Binder Rat Build

[jmlcolorado]

lookin good! Now you have to knock those front body mounts off and taper the frame rails for a cleaner look...[

Indeed! I need to move the engine forward 2" cause it's too tight to the cab, then mount the grill in its final spot, then the frame gets tapered

 

[Dirtyrat]

That grille is killer.... you have inspired me to build my own!

 

[jmlcolorado]

That grille is killer.... you have inspired me to build my own!

Glad to hear it man! Im no metal worker like some guys here so I've gotta make things work, and that usually means finding things with the right shape and modify them to fit my needs.

Go get some ore bent tubing and give it a shot!

 

[klink]

Looking forward to seeing it trimmed out in copper. It's looking good.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Looking forward to seeing it trimmed out in copper. It's looking good.

I'm doing everything I can to keep myself from going to buy the copper this weekend! I REALLY wanna see it too, but there are more important things to do......like find its permanate home and finishing the welds.

But I'd be willing to bet, by next weekend, you'll see some copper in there

 

[Dirtyrat]

What are you trimming in copper?
I'm just curious, and wondering how you will isolate the copper from any steel contact....

 

[jmlcolorado]

What are you trimming in copper?
I'm just curious, and wondering how you will isolate the copper from any steel contact....

I'm just doing the vertical bars in copper. I'll be doing some sort of mechanical connection since they are dissimilar metals and can't be welded together.

 

[Dirtyrat]

I'm just doing the vertical bars in copper. I'll be doing some sort of mechanical connection since they are dissimilar metals and can't be welded together.

Copper on steel will cause the steel to corrode very quickly...
I suggest some nylon or polypropylene between the steel and the copper...

 

[jmlcolorado]

Copper on steel will cause the steel to corrode very quickly...
I suggest some nylon or polypropylene between the steel and the copper...

Interesting. Can't say I've heard of that.....but there's a lot I haven't heard of.
I'll have to look into that.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Copper on steel will cause the steel to corrode very quickly...
I suggest some nylon or polypropylene between the steel and the copper...

Well holy crap! This is quite interesting!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion


This carries over to my professional trade too as a restoration contractor. I have run into lots of jobs where cast iron water mains have become corroded and have failed. The last big one was at the census bureau 2 thanksgivings ago when the buildings water main burst 8' under a post tension slab. The burger alarm was set off after a Tracy can floated by a motion detector.

I attributed the cause to electrolysis as I have heard that in densely populated areas, buildings are grounded to earth by use of ground rods. This causes very slight current to pass through the ground which slowly causes a chemical reaction in the cast iron pipe.
Though soil mineral content could also play a key roll in this effect.


Thanks for the heads up!

 

[Dirtyrat]

Look up why they dont use iron nails on a copper roof =)

 

[jmlcolorado]

Look up why they dont use iron nails on a copper roof =)

Oh yeah, I just read a whole long article about that too. I hate it when I'm forced to learn something new when just trying to do something simple
Then again, it's cool to have a reason to learn all this.
This is why I failed at school......nothing ever seemed to apply to me now it does.........damnit

 

[jmlcolorado]

Figured today I'd start figuring out how to mount this grill shell. Turns out to be tougher then I would have thought.
I've got the radiator mounted in there but gotta get it on the truck now.
I thought I would need to find out where the headlights were going to go too just in case I wanted to kill two birds with 1 bracket but with the way it's all lining up, the headlights will have their own.

I think I'm going to make a few more of these and put copper bar between the front and back plate just cause I like the idea.
I don't know that juSt a set on each side will be strong enough with the air screaming through it and with a full radiator, but we'll see I guess.

Any other ideas as to a better way to mount this thing, I'm all ears.

 

[DJ3100]

Lokin good. Radiator supports are always way more trouble than they seem like they should be.

 

[jfg455]

2 ideas for you

1) hide some rubber biscuts down at the botom of the frame rail. Then drop the shell down on them and use a strut rod from the top of the shell back to the firewall.

2) put a heavy tab on the back side of the shell tube on the inside of the shell (facing to the rear) then plate and sink nuts into the frame rails. Bolt through the tabs and shell out into the inner plate of the frame.

either way is hidden and you can mount the rad to the back side of the shell. But the industrial side mounts with rivets looks cool too. Steam punk ish!

 

[jmlcolorado]

Freakin PITA!

I'm still undecided on how to mount the brackets to the grill. Weld them on solid, or plate the bracket as 1 piece and bolt it to the shell. The skin is only 18 gauge and there will be a lot of weight on them so what ever I do, I'll likely add some 1/8" plate welded inside the shell to strengthen it up.
I'm also still trying to add a support under it all to help carry weight.

I've made this more difficult then it should be since I've really defined the entire center line of the truck with the split windsheild, seam down the center of the air cleaner, points on the grill shell ect. And ALL of those have to line up just right or it'll throw it all off and it'll look hacked together.

 

[jmlcolorado]

2 ideas for you

1) hide some rubber biscuts down at the botom of the frame rail. Then drop the shell down on them and use a strut rod from the top of the shell back to the firewall.

2) put a heavy tab on the back side of the shell tube on the inside of the shell (facing to the rear) then plate and sink nuts into the frame rails. Bolt through the tabs and shell out into the inner plate of the frame.

either way is hidden and you can mount the rad to the back side of the shell. But the industrial side mounts with rivets looks cool too. Steam punk ish!

I like the biscuit idea. Is it super critical that I add some vibration dampers to the grill? I was planning on using some thick foam at the bottom under the radiator to help absorb some vibration.

The rivit look was specifically to help the steampunk theme. Eventually the truck will be flat black and I want to accent it all with copper/brass hardware.

 

[jmlcolorado]

These are what im going to use between the plates just to keep the steampunk theme;

 

[GJunktionMike]

Add the extra plating on the inside. Add one more of those fancy suports at the back edge of the shell, weld them to the shell. weld a peice between the two suports to sit on top of your frame and add some rubber between the two. And do the lower ones to that jfg had in #1 idea also.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Here's one of the side brackets.
I'm still going to box in the back and bottom and the bottom will have 2 bolts through the frame with rubber between the bracket and the frame.

I was hoping to avoid the strut to the firewall but I agree with everyone in that it'll need it.

I think I see a way to do the pucks on the frame too which is good. Itll be a pain, but I'll make it work.