1936 chevy low cab build 1.5T

[Rev Tex Devlle]

massive calipers.. ended up with the dual piston set up from a Police addition Tahoe, they were more than I wanted to spend but I figured I shouldnt skimp on the brakes..

Next ... brackets..

I also pressed in the new bronze bushings into the spindles.. im going to ream them tomorrow

i think you need to determin the location to the bleeder valve , the bleeder needs to be to the top, thats what is important, but to the front or on top as long as that bleeder can let all the air out! to the front seems like there would be not steering clearance problems.

 

[Flipper_1938]

Holy crap those are some serious looking brake calipers! How big of a master cylinder does it take to move them?

 

[CORPO]

Rev... Yep bleeder up, Im going to make the brackets so that the caliper is standing vertically, that way i can swap them from front to back by taking the left caliper to the right and vise versa. that way i can determine if it will be better to the front or back

Flipper.. its going to take a big one. I figured i should go with the best brakes I could without breaking the bank... They make big brake kits for the guys with like the 26-28" rims that have 15" rotors and 6 piston calipers... But that's over 3 grand... So that's wayyyyyy out of the realm of options

 

[Aloha Terry]

Keep working!

There are a bunch of us in the weeds looking at this bad boy![cl
Aloha-Terry

 

[CORPO]

There are a bunch of us in the weeds looking at this bad boy![cl
Aloha-Terry

Well stop hiding in the weeds and help out!

Little update.. reamed out my new bushings for my kingpins yesterday and assembled the axle.. I borrowed an adjustable reamer and slowly snuck up on the final fit.. i ran the reamer through probably a dozen times.. i think it came out really well

I made some quick brackets they are off a bit but i was able to hang the caliper and swing the steering to check clearances

Ignore the bolts hanging out.. only M14's i could find on short notice

 

[frankthedog]

Corpo,

How did you pick the rotors and calipers to use. Looking to swap out the drum setup on my '38 Chevy 1/2 ton. I saw there is a kit for sale but thought I would make the brackets myself after seeing your setup.

Thanks for the guidance

 

[hillbilly36]

Any thing new on the truck?

[P

 

[Pookie Bros]

Corpo !!!

 

[CORPO]

not a whole lot to report.. the brakes are done... that's about all i got for you guys... but next week i am planing on getting back at it... going to do some work on the cab first before i get back on the frame...

Im debating cutting out the door pillars i made... i feel like i could have done a better job.. and planed it out better

we have been buttoning up my dads 57.. its nearing completion.. put the carpet and seats in last week.. got the bumpers (still need to install them) he opted for the very pricey 1 piece california bumper..

we did go for a brief ride around the block... he was grining from ear to ear.. he said he never thought he would drive the car again...

Hopefully next week i will have something to show you guys on the truck

 

[hillbilly36]

Are you planning on going with a two piece drive shaft on the truck ?
It looks like with the truck dropped all the way down you will need quite
a tall drive shaft tunnel between you and the passenger.
But with a two piece shaft you could keep the tunnel lower.

[

 

[Shea Laking]

Rev... Yep bleeder up, Im going to make the brackets so that the caliper is standing vertically, that way i can swap them from front to back by taking the left caliper to the right and vise versa. that way i can determine if it will be better to the front or back

Flipper.. its going to take a big one. I figured i should go with the best brakes I could without breaking the bank... They make big brake kits for the guys with like the 26-28" rims that have 15" rotors and 6 piston calipers... But that's over 3 grand... So that's wayyyyyy out of the realm of options

First off....NICE WORK!!![[dr

Now, with regards to your master cylinder...You might want to take a look at equipment from 1.5-2 ton trucks, etc. I think you'll find one of those will move MORE than adequate fluid-I believe the ones on our older GMC and International buses displace 84 cubic inches. The only possible drawback is that they are designed to be used with a hydroboost unit.

Another point to consider is that calipers and brackets on these biggies are usually interchangeable from wheel to wheel, as well, so you're heading in the right direction.

Thanks for sharing your pics, I'm gonna have to go back and play catch up with your thread!

Regards,
Shea

 

[rainman]

I don't believe volume on any modern m/c should be a problem, just make sure you're getting enough pressure, (piston size). I'm no brake expert tho, maybe we could get more opinions on this?

 

[truckster]

I think the size of the MC is very important, both. As rainman points out for pressure. Volume is going to be an issue as well.

Not sure what those calipers are you are using Corpo, but mine are the P40 calipers front and rear. I haven't completely figured out the brake system yet, but I am concerned about getting the right MC for this.

Not enough MC volume to fully move those huge caliper pistons is definitely a problem regardless of pressure (which is also important).

Then if I use a MC from a P40 there is the problem of where/how to mount it because of size. The electric pump boosters are trick, but haven't been able to verify that they make one big enough to operate all four P40 calipers, and they are expensive.

 

[CORPO]

well the calipers i am using probably arent as big as yours... mine are from a police edition Tahoe... i think i will probably just reference the stock set up.. for size reference and then buy a willwood MC or some other high volume style one... i think the stock it 1 " or 1-1/8"

 

[truckster]

Think that is the way to approach it. See what the stock MC application was originally for the calipers and then match the OEM MC bore and get at least the orignal stroke, a little more if possible.

 

[jfg455]

If'n it were me, I would grab a master from a 96-99 3/4 ton or a 1 ton chevy truck. They had large front calipers and big rear drums. If you used the porporsioning valve from say a 90 1 ton (no ABS) then it should be close.

 

[deerchooper]

wasnt the older 1 ton brake hydro assist?

 

[jfg455]

i think yo are right. I think from 95 on. 88-94 new (round) bodystyle were vacuum. You could run a hydroboost with a P/S pump. It would save alot of room size wise and have plenty of power.

 

[bighroder]

This truck is sick just joined and it is crazy looked at all the pics your gussets are amazing

 

[CORPO]

Think that is the way to approach it. See what the stock MC application was originally for the calipers and then match the OEM MC bore and get at least the orignal stroke, a little more if possible.

The OE part napa # TS 102880 which is a 37mm bore MC however this set up was with 4 wheel disk and it does also have a brake booster in the set up as well... I will probably end up running a booster...

wasnt the older 1 ton brake hydro assist?

i think yo are right. I think from 95 on. 88-94 new (round) bodystyle were vacuum. You could run a hydroboost with a P/S pump. It would save alot of room size wise and have plenty of power.

Im going to have to look into this.. you guys are just making me more confused! haha.. thanks for all the input guys i appreciate it

This truck is sick just joined and it is crazy looked at all the pics your gussets are amazing

Thanks man... I really need to get back at it.. been slacking far to much