1936 chevy low cab build 1.5T

[deerchooper]

mid 80's 1 ton trucks had a hydro assist brakes that ran off of the power steering pump, i think it also had a brake booster (45% it did) but im not sure.

 

[CORPO]

It appears that the 88 1 ton chevy had both a regular booster set up and a hydraboost set up

I dont know much about hydraboost.. any one want to clue me in?
never mind looked it up.. seems pretty striaght forward.. i would have to just run a power steering pump to pressurize the booster

heres the vac set up
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NBB501074_0136007405&An=599001+101988+50014+2014033

NBB 501074

and the hydrabooster
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NBB527328_0136007406&An=599001+101988+50014+2014033

PN# NBB 527328

I dont know what you guys think? What sorts of MC do guys use on the custom off road stuff?

 

[truckster]

One thing I was reading recently talked about the difference between MC's for frt disc, rear drum and frt disc, rear disc setups. Said MC's are different and to get the right one for the configuration being used.

It was in Rod & Custom within the last two or three years. Can't tell you what year or month because I ripped it out and saved it in in my notes file.

It said that a four wheel disc brake MC is designed to supply more fluid pressure and volume to the rear disc brakes and has a longer stroke than a MC for the disc/drum does. A disc/drum MC will run out of stroke, limiting the amount of fluid pressure and volume needed for rear discs.

Also said any MC piston size over 1" needs a booster. Also recommends a split system rather than a single piston MC for safety.

 

[rainman]

This thread has confirmed for me that I need to learn more about brakes, especially m/c's. Being into circle track racing I've encountered problems probably related to some of these issues. Thanks guys for showing me how ignorant I am. LOL BTW CORPO I love the build.

 

[CORPO]

Truckster... you are right different set ups for disk disk.. disk drum.. i will need some sort of metering block or adjustable set up to get the system to balance right and not lock up...

I have never really considered the hydroboost set up.. but im starting to think it might be a good route...


Rainmain.. you an me both.. need to learn more about brakes! Thanks for the support.. i really really need to get back at it.. i want to get the doors and floor in and chop the top.. box the frame add shocks and hopefully work out a bed this summer..(still got to find one)

 

[jfg455]

I was suggesting the 88-94 GM units due to the fact that they were disc/drum like your setup. We use hyrdo boost systems on our turbo car just because we can get more holding power at the line while still building boost.

 

[CORPO]

Thanks jfg455 I think that I will end up going with the route you suggested...

I just need to find some affordable parts... Going to have to see what I can dig up..

 

[Shea Laking]

First off....NICE WORK!!![[dr

Now, with regards to your master cylinder...You might want to take a look at equipment from 1.5-2 ton trucks, etc. I think you'll find one of those will move MORE than adequate fluid-I believe the ones on our older GMC and International buses displace 84 cubic inches. The only possible drawback is that they are designed to be used with a hydroboost unit.

Another point to consider is that calipers and brackets on these biggies are usually interchangeable from wheel to wheel, as well, so you're heading in the right direction.

Thanks for sharing your pics, I'm gonna have to go back and play catch up with your thread!

Regards,
Shea

I gotta go back and correct myself. The master cylinder I was refering to doesn't displace 84 cu. in. Rather, the fluid reservoir displaces 84 cu. in. Duh. I'm a bonehead, sometimes. No offense intended, Bonehead.

Once upon a time there used to be tables printed for parts people which explained the fluid displacement of different parts-i.e. calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, etc. What you really need to do bottom line is determine what the applied displacement of ALL of your wheel components are and then find a master cylinder which will properly displace that amount of fluid plus extra for a "margin of error."

I wonder if Bendix or somebody might have a website which shows the displacements of various components? Might be worth doing further web research.

Regards,
Shea

 

[hillbilly36]

Are you planning on going with a two piece drive shaft on the truck ?
It looks like with the truck dropped all the way down you will need quite
a tall drive shaft tunnel between you and the passenger.
But with a two piece shaft you could keep the tunnel lower.

[

Have you started on the floor yet?

 

[bowatjr6969]

CORPO - I have been following this thread for a while now and I am impressed by your build. You do some really nice work!! Keep it going and winter is over have you pulled the chassis out of storage to start getting it rolling yet????[P

 

[CORPO]

Thanks Bow... i have been watching your build too.. very cool!

nope frame is in storage still... just cleaned up the garage this last weekend so I can start working on the truck again... going to get the cab pieced back together a bit first..

cut the old floor out tonight... going to put the floor in from the black cab

Scarrrry lookin... i will feel much better when it looks like a complete cab again

 

[speedkills502]

A cheap hydro boost system that should work for you would be a early 2000 mustang I would check local yards you should be able to find one. PS great build

 

[bowatjr6969]

I can relate to the scary looking situation, I doubted myself many times over that it would actually make it back square again. I have built a bunch of circle track cars with no worries or concern!!! But I start on my project and freaked out at the begining when cutting the floor out (well what was left of it...LOL) to get it back to a solid cab.

Keep plugging away at it, you have a really nice truck going together!! [dr

 

[deerchooper]

measure, measure and measure again.

thats what i keep doing and i didnt have a floor to go off of, its still not ready for metal yet but i will get it.

 

[truckster]

Good to see that you continue to work at it. Hope you can make some good progress before the snow flies again. Cab is going to be great.

Haven't done anything on mine for 3 mos (went Jeepin' and then broke some ribs while mountain biking 6 weeks ago) but hope to get back to it in a week or two.

 

[DoorGunner808]

A cheap hydro boost system that should work for you would be a early 2000 mustang I would check local yards you should be able to find one. PS great build

Speed, the hydroboost system came on 1996 to 2004 V8 Mustangs. Ford had to put it on to clear the valve covers on the 4.6L modular motors. However for this build, I don't think the MC would be big enough to push the calipers and cylinders that he's using.

Looking good Corpo!!!

 

[jfg455]

Speed, the hydroboost system came on 1996 to 2004 V8 Mustangs. Ford had to put it on to clear the valve covers on the 4.6L modular motors. However for this build, I don't think the MC would be big enough to push the calipers and cylinders that he's using.

Looking good Corpo!!!

+1 on that. I can get you a pic of one if you need, but I think it isnt going to move enough fluid for ya.

 

[DJ3100]

I'm a little late to this hydro boost party but. My '53 has a hydro boost and it is the same unit that is in my 2000 Chevy 2500 and Dodge, Chevy and Ford 1 ton and bigger trucks and all diesels. In fact, all the hydro boost units I have seen (haven't seen the Mustang unit) are the same. Mine cost $40 at the bone yard. The word is that they are very trouble free and rarely wear out. They have a built in accumulator that will stop you about 10 times without the engine running.

I think most master cylinders are roughly the same stroke - they get increased volume with increased bore size. That's how all the bigger trucks can use the same boosters (hydro and vacuum). Anyhow, the hydro boost puts out way more boost than a vacuum booster that's why they use them on larger gas powered trucks.

They are easy to install - the hi pressure line from the pump goes to the hydro boost, the hi pressure line from the HB goes to the steering box. The low pressure line from the HB and steering box T and go to the low pressure side of the pump. Mechanically, they install just like a vacuum booster.

Hopefully something here wasn't already covered and is helpful.

 

[rainman]

Sounds like a man with the plan CORPO!!

 

[CORPO]

Thanks for all the input on the brakes guys i appreciate it.. its obviously going to have to be right....

DJ, I would like to see some pictures of your set up on your 53 if you have them, what MC are you using?

Im hoping i will make some decent progress this weekend, so if all works out maybe i will have something for you guys to look at....

I wonder what the limit on pages of a thread is.. at the slow rate im working at we might just find out.. haha

Thanks again