Ya I know all the concepts. I've used copper backers supported on jacks that set on saw horses across the width of the roof. I have what looks like a ladder that is arched to the contour of the roof with each ladder rung with a little bit of an arch to match the crown and that is all held in place with Clecos. I still have warping and I can't seem to be able to hammer out the shrinkage from the welds without making a mess.
1937 Ford Pickup
- Thread starter kenny c
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
Good to see ya post Kenny!
I’ve been lurking a little. But haven’t had much to say. When I figure out pictures again I will show what is going on.
Wow! That seemed to work. Seems easy on an I-Phone.
DozerII
Well-known member
Hey Kenny check out this video, this young fellow is awesome I have been watching him since he started on YouTube a couple years ago.
Thanks Dozer. I watch His videos all the time. Most multiple times. I've watched this one repeatedly. I'm just not getting the hang of it.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Great instructional vid
Thanks Dozer
Thanks Dozer
I've watched a series of videos a couple years ago where he was chopping a dodge cab like mine. Precision cuts, tig welded joints, polished it out like it never happened. Incredible work....... Mine's loaded with plastic.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Thanks for the video, Dozer. I enjoyed it.
I tried heat shrinking a box side one time, but I think I was making the red spots too big. I was taking out the many dings, but I was also twisting the box side.
I tried heat shrinking a box side one time, but I think I was making the red spots too big. I was taking out the many dings, but I was also twisting the box side.
gene49
Well-known member
Some guys have the natural skills to make that metal working stuff look easy. It always makes those of us without those skills feel like fools. Those that can do it say it is a learned experience, I suppose for some it is, but not everyone can learn how to do everything. Do the best you can do, and move on.
Plastic filler was created for a reason. The filler manufacturers say that 1/4" is the max filler thickness. The truth is, once you add some, then sand, add more, sand, the repeat the process until you finally get the job done (or as close as you can stand to keep plugging away), you have no idea how thick it really is, unless you have to remove it. That is my story....
If that filler is spread over good metal patching, it lasts a long time and many miles.
Plastic filler was created for a reason. The filler manufacturers say that 1/4" is the max filler thickness. The truth is, once you add some, then sand, add more, sand, the repeat the process until you finally get the job done (or as close as you can stand to keep plugging away), you have no idea how thick it really is, unless you have to remove it. That is my story....
If that filler is spread over good metal patching, it lasts a long time and many miles.
Old Iron
Well-known member
I've sanded it out of panels where it was 1 1/2" thick that you couldn't even see it after years of being there.
Yah.... I wish I had that skill. I can make plastic look like glass.... I always guide coat my body work as I go along so I'm always close and I've never had filler fail. My Dakota has some filler in the rear quarter...it's been there for 20 years with no issues but I'd love to be able to work metal like that.
I think one of my problems with trying to tig welding is that I can’t see well enough. I can’t seam to see a reflection in the puddle to add filler to. I am trying to mig in the panel again and only work small amounts at a time. I will try to correct the shrinkage as I go.
Old Iron
Well-known member
I found that happening to me too.
I bought a Miller Elite helmet that has an auto darkening lens,. When welding aluminum or any AC welding, I set the lens to 10 never lower and decreased darkness to 9 or even 8 to weld on DC current which also helped. Anything les than 10 on AC will make your eyes itch or burn them. DC is more forgiving.
I bought a cheater lens for my helmet that finished fixing that issue. After the lens got too scratchy to see out of, I started using my reading glasses and have used them ever since.
I wear prescription glasses and have for 20 years. They are progressive lenses and are the transitions type that darken in sunlight. They also darken while I’m welding. I should probably get a set of readers and try them.
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I have the same problem especially when o/a welding sheet with no filler rod. Good clear glass in the helmet / goggles in my case, reading glasses preferably the ones for very blind folks, and lotsa bright work light. I do have issues sometimes with the auto helmet when tig welding in bright light tho...
Old Iron
Well-known member
The Elite helmet has a X Mode that stops unwanted darkening especially welding outside in sunlight.
If your glasses are darkening along with the helmet, ya might as well be welding in the dark.
I use 2.0 magnification and the ones I use are called Clic.
If your glasses are darkening along with the helmet, ya might as well be welding in the dark.
I use 2.0 magnification and the ones I use are called Clic.
gene49
Well-known member
I bought a pair of clear lens prescription safety glasses to wear in the shop when I'm going to weld or grind, My transgression prescription glasses were also darkening while I was welding. Even though the welding helmet is suppose to keep that from happening, it doesn't do a very good job.
I've also discovered over the years that I needed to clean both sides of all the welding helmet lens and shade at least once a week, but usually more. I was amazed how dirty the welding helmet lens got.
The last 10 or so years, I also had a good light to light up the work area.
It all helps a little, but it all adds up.
I've also discovered over the years that I needed to clean both sides of all the welding helmet lens and shade at least once a week, but usually more. I was amazed how dirty the welding helmet lens got.
The last 10 or so years, I also had a good light to light up the work area.
It all helps a little, but it all adds up.
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
Ya'll talking about plastic made me think about my old neighbor. He was a car guy that the term "old school" had to have come from. I was witness to some of the neatest body repair work I've seen before or since. The only time to watch the whole process using lead for filler. He was good!
