1937 Packard 115 coupe

[23crate]

that's a bit cool !!! [cl never seen one before ,, google images -- stylish coupe these!!

 

[jfg455]

I will follow along with this one as well...[P

 

[Skip]

I see the conversation turning to the great styling of these cars, so I thought I would chime in here. I saw earlier that you were talking of going the gasser route. While I do think these are cool. I vote that you "do your thing" on it and make it a chopped sectioned pavement scraper. Not only does this let you exercise your creative vision (which rocks!!), it also inspires us less talented. If really need to build a gasser, I'll still watch the magic. I just hate to see it done to a car with that much class. P.S. ( I have a 36 chevy coupe for a gasser if you really need to scratch that itch)

Did someone say, coupe? [dr

 

[zzrodder]

I see the conversation turning to the great styling of these cars, so I thought I would chime in here. I saw earlier that you were talking of going the gasser route. While I do think these are cool. I vote that you "do your thing" on it and make it a chopped sectioned pavement scraper. Not only does this let you exercise your creative vision (which rocks!!), it also inspires us less talented. If really need to build a gasser, I'll still watch the magic. I just hate to see it done to a car with that much class. P.S. ( I have a 36 chevy coupe for a gasser if you really need to scratch that itch)

The Gasser idea is something that has always been an itch in the back of my mind that may one day get scratched - growing up in the 60's and seeing them in magazines and on the streets made an impression that can't be erased without a lobotomy..... though I doubt it will happen on body #2 since it has to get by wifey also .......
Here's some more pics of body #2

 

[Old Iron]

I'm not settling in till I see some action [ddd
Ah, who am I kidding, I'm in [P [P [P

 

[zzrodder]

I thought I'd be well into this project now but my wife's health has taken priority over hot rod building. She's doing better now so I've been spending a little time getting started on the frame. I still wont be able to get the body here for another month but I did take some measurements from a stock frame my Packard buddy has, then I did a chalk drawing on the floor to use as a template and chopped up some box tubing to match.
Doing my usual 2x2 stacked on a 2x4 to make 2x6 main rails, tapering to 2x4 in front and tapering to 2x3 in the rear, 3" front kickup and 6" rear kickup. I used a strip of 2x1/4" to fill the angle cut on the lower sides of the main rails and notched the ends to give more strength to the transition from 2x6 to 2x4.
The front suspension is going to be a CPP Mustang II type, since they don't make a specific one for a 1937 Packard I'm using one for a 35 - 41 Ford, dimensions are almost identical. In the rear, I'll be using the stock Packard leaf springs with the mounting points raised 3"

 

[smallfoot]

Ah, a plan comes together...[cl

 

[forbigpicture]

Oh yeah, now we're talkin'...[cl[cl
Wishing the best for your wife ZZ....

[P[P

 

[suicide33plymouth]

Yeah

37 coupes all the way ! Maybe our rides will be able to cruise together one day .

 

[TruckRat]

Looks great! Watching this one

 

[Willowbilly3]

What ever you do will be awesome. I love a big 3 window. Gasser would not be my first choice for that car, but I'm kind of conservative about what should be gassers. They are fad cars and I am not much for fads.

 

[zzrodder]

What ever you do will be awesome. I love a big 3 window. Gasser would not be my first choice for that car, but I'm kind of conservative about what should be gassers. They are fad cars and I am not much for fads.

Yah, gassers are a fad, impractical, poor handling etc., but they do have that way of evoking the glory of the 60's drags when guys with tools much less sophisticated than the average home builders have today, could build a race car and be a local hero for a day....
I think my build will end up looking more like this one.

 

[35 PROG]

Nice rails

ZZ, It appears that you solid weld the rails the entire length. Do you fill the seam completely full of weld? How do you control the warp or twist? What wall thickness? Sorry for so many questions, just think it is an awesome approach and want to learn from your experiences. I love the chalk drawing approach (I have those type of design skills) Not so much with a computer though.)

Thanks Shawn

 

[Torchie]

[P [P [P [P
Torchie

 

[zzrodder]

ZZ, It appears that you solid weld the rails the entire length. Do you fill the seam completely full of weld? How do you control the warp or twist? What wall thickness? Sorry for so many questions, just think it is an awesome approach and want to learn from your experiences. I love the chalk drawing approach (I have those type of design skills) Not so much with a computer though.)

Thanks Shawn

Yes, I weld all along the seam between the 2x4 and 2x6, not trying to totally fill the seam though.. I welded it in 1" spots, flipping it over constantly to minimize warpage. Any minor deviations if they do occur can be corrected by spreading or pulling the rails together when installing the crossmembers. All the box tubing I use is .125 wall (1/8"). I always start with chalk drawings, easy to figure out things and visualize in full scale.

Made a recessed section for the rear leaf mounts to raise the spring mount from the stock under frame location to mid rail. At this point I just drilled a pilot hole (arrow), later I'll drill it out and install a sleeve for the spring bushing.

 

[zzrodder]

Frame assembly today after leveling and measuring every which way, welded in the rear 2x3 member and the CPP MII front crosssmember. I also made a change to the front frame horns, realized that the drop in front caused interference with the steering rack, new shape looks better too.

 

[35 PROG]

ride height?

ZZ I have always heard that you need to set ride height to install the MMII cross member. Do you know the tilt angle for the cross member based on the CAD file? (Chalk Aided Design) ? Or what am I missing, I'm assuming more rake than what is shown. Also, when drawing the front section, the spindle is at then center of wheel, but how do you determine height of "kick up on the front to determine when the lower control arms will be level? I assume you will use stock spindles since you are reverse engineering it.

Thanks, Shawn

 

[zzrodder]

ZZ I have always heard that you need to set ride height to install the MMII cross member. Do you know the tilt angle for the cross member based on the CAD file? (Chalk Aided Design) ? Or what am I missing, I'm assuming more rake than what is shown. Also, when drawing the front section, the spindle is at then center of wheel, but how do you determine height of "kick up on the front to determine when the lower control arms will be level? I assume you will use stock spindles since you are reverse engineering it.

Thanks, Shawn

All good questions.
I mounted the MII crossmember based on the rake of the frame from my drawing, so I gave it about a 3 degree backward tilt. The 3" kickup in the front I settled on is derived from my experience building the 36 Packard. I used a 4" kickup on that one to get it low, also using air ride.
This one is using stock springs and spindles, final ride height can be tweaked once the full weight of the car is on it, I can always cut the springs or change spring weight. Also rear ride height can be adjusted at the mounts or with lowering blocks to get the rake right.

 

[CORPO]

If I start saving now, maybe I can buy this one when your done. I know it will be amazing [cl

 

[zzrodder]

Got a start on the center frame structure. I can only go so far without the drivetrain and body present though I have enough measurements in hand to do this part. The lower level of the structure will have a 2" drop center to give more room for mufflers and an under floor battery, plus it will allow mounting the engine/tranny lower, level with the bottom of the frame.