1946 Chevy Bobber Truck Chop Build

[401ton]

Here's a couple weeks ago after I spent days getting all the old clutch head screws off it where needed and also the doors etc. I saw this year truck in a mag with a 4" chop and liked the stance. I'm a fairly big guy and wanted to use the windshield crank out so trying to keep the windshield frame, so only went with a 3 1/2" chop. I taped off 4" at the "A" pillar with with my level turned out to be right on 3 1/2" in height. Taped off 3 1/2" at "B" pillar, but only about 3 1/4" all the way around to leave metal for an overlap.

Well...I was trying to load some more pictures, but got a error message now so will try again later.

Trying pictures again... I get the same Security Tonken was missing. grumble...

Well, off the the garage then, at least I'll try to get something done today.

 

[Bonehead]

Trying pictures again... I get the same Security Tonken was missing. grumble...

Maybe try a photobucket.com approach

 

[401ton]

Tryin again with some pictures from my Photo Bucket account.

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You can see I tred to make some roof templates and weld them on one halve to keep a good curve of the roof. This was a good idea, but needed to be adjusted anyway after I put the roof gap panel splice back in.

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[401ton]

re-setting the roof:

I'm not sure if you can see it or not, but at the back of the cab is where I left extra steel then flanged it so I didn't have a gap. It really worked well when adjusting the cab and not having weld burn through all over. I'll weld it solid and use seam sealer from the inside when I get that far.

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Here's where even with a template the arch didn't look right. I bought a piece of roof section that was on ebay and used it for my patch. The patch would have turned out fine with just some flat steel and maybe some massaging, but it helped save alot of fab time at the roof edges!

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I left extra on the roof splice and flanged both sides of it too. Then held it up with my hand and a hammer handle and started putting spot welds from the center out. What started out like two big flooppy tin pieces shortly began to look very good!

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[401ton]

Chopped the doors off at the low point. Then took the top of the doors to the bench and vertical band saw and cut them off again. Used the flap wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder to fit. Must have took me 4 hrs. a door, but that's with the TV on and going slow.

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Put the extra cab section back on ebay to recoup some cost and maybe help someone else.

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Picture of the door before cutting it off.

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Caught on fire a little while welding on the doors. Maybe my PPE needs updating...lol

Sorry some of the pictures aren't in order. I've got a new camera and different program and other excuses...

 

[401ton]

Some of my parts, donor vehicle and extra B.S....

First are three AMC engines. 343 witn no intake, 390 complete with bellhousing and 401 complete. The 401 was the engine that was going to go in this project, but I really want a tunnel ram set up or maybe a future blower and AMC's are to expensive for either of those IMO.

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Poor neglected engines... At least they have a roof...

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See the two small holes next to the old Jeep hood, that's where I Woodpecker of some kind was trying for a new winter home in my garage annex.

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Origianl bench seats. Use them or make some buckets?

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Tailgate off a old Ford. The guy I got it from said it's off a 1946. I'll bet he meant 1956. I'm planning on cutting it down to the size I want.

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Old truck 9 inch off craigs list. Planned to cut it down etc. Has high gears. I haven't checked except for in the driveway and I think it's 2.73. We shall see.

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The 53' chevy car suspension. Speedway sells a straight axle with a drop for these. I'm hoping the spindles and brakes etc. are decent so I can save some coin.

 

[401ton]

Maybe try a photobucket.com approach

Forgot to say Thanks for the suggestion. I have patience for people and projects, but not much for computers...

I've also noticed my spelling sucks, or at least my typing anyway...

 

[401ton]

Keg to be fuel tank in future. Anybody know anything about these? This is the 16 gal size. I was wondering if how to get the cork or wood plug out and the other valve thingy etc. before buying a weld on filler neck.

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Future donor truck. My buddy Russel had a 460 put in it years ago so I'm going this route now. I'll need to sell a few things off the truck, but the 460 doesn't have a bunch of miles on the rebuild, I've got all the extras and the 9 inch in the back has a trac loc and Moser axles already.

 

[401ton]

Oh, I about forgot about my wheels. 15 x 14 Centerlines for the rear. Not the slicks though...

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I think I'll either get matching Centerline skinneys for the front or maybe some of those new cast spoke designs. Long ways away though.

So if you have just tuned in or gotten this far and don't like wide tires, this may not be the build for you. Everybody says build it the way you want, so that's what I'm doing.

 

[nunattax]

good thread

good thread keep the photos coming

 

[401ton]

I haven't ever done a chop before. I've done a little body work in my time, but I'm a long way off from being good at it. A Rat Rod Hot Rod Truck Bobber build is perfect for me I figure.

I was a little apprehensive about cutting off the roof before I had my plan gone over by someone else. My buddy Chris didn't see any big hicups in my tapeing job so he helped me get the roof chopped off. From them it was fairly straight forward. The upper roof needed to come in some, so a relief cut or so on each side and it seamed to fit decent. The rear roof fit inside the bottom section so well that I flanged the upper portion and with only one relief cut and a little hammer and dollie both sides there fit good.

The doors weren't so bad either. I did the drivers side first and for some reason the archs didn't line up well. I ground off some of the front and rear radius and rewelded the seams and fixed that problem. I figured it must have been from the tweaking of the winshield area to fit the front roof.
Then went to the passenger side and both radius fit fine. I think I gave up early on the drivers side and could have saved some work. The gap was smaller on the drivers side, but after future bondo etc. you won't be able to tell.

I still have my interior brace welded in place. I had to cut part of it off near each door because the doors would not shut. I plan to leave it there until I weld all the seams up in a week or so. Both door shut very nice right now.
One door I just cut it off with the windo track still in it. The other I bent it out of the way. Both window tracks aren't very good, so not sure what I'm gonna end up doin there. The windows almost fit good enough that I could add some steel to the fronts and never cut the glass down. Doubt if I'll go that way because it may look goofy though.

 

[401ton]

The whole cab, roof and doors with pieces and various parts kida looks a little Frankenstien in these stages.

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I did use the pieces of the doors cut off the remake the top of the door on each side. It was more of a puzzle than anything. I'll take the doors back off again to weld everthing on the bench that would be upside down whae i get that far.

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Future project filling 30 plus holes...groan... What's the best way to do that? I have already had my buddy Greg over with copper, magnet, rod and brass hammer. Haven't found what I would consider a good procedure yet, so I'm still looking for suggestions.

 

[earthman]

Excellent thread and nice work on the top. The AMC motor sure peaked my interest tho.

 

[ratrodz]

top chop looks great.

 

[deerchooper]

looking good.

 

[dmw56]

Great job on the chop. Is that a Rambler SC???[dr

 

[401ton]

Great job on the chop. Is that a Rambler SC???[dr

Yep, it is a 1969 Hurst SC/Rambler "A" scheme. I should be working on it more. It would be easier to get back on the road. I've had it since arround 1982. It was a turned into a drag car befora I got it, so a few things missing, but came with a rust free body though. I haven't driven it since about 1990.

 

[dmw56]

Yep, it is a 1969 Hurst SC/Rambler "A" scheme. I should be working on it more. It would be easier to get back on the road. I've had it since arround 1982. It was a turned into a drag car befora I got it, so a few things missing, but came with a rust free body though. I haven't driven it since about 1990.

Heck, that was a drag car right from the factory! I've always wanted one of those little beasties. I have a 70 AMX I've had since 1975 and a 65 Rambler Classic 660.

 

[KnoxVegas]

That's a nice looking chop.

 

[deerchooper]

Future project filling 30 plus holes...groan... What's the best way to do that? I have already had my buddy Greg over with copper, magnet, rod and brass hammer. Haven't found what I would consider a good procedure yet, so I'm still looking for suggestions.

cut some little plugs and weld them in. if its thin copper i wouldnt use it, really dont want to use copper anyhow. brass is better for backing a weld.